[RESOLVED] BW s256 boost issues!

[dsmmatt28]

Here is a pic of the dual wally set up I fabed up.. Cost me less than 40 bucks to fab it up. This is the fitting I used aswell to join the two wallys. I cut the pick up tubel and slid a 5/16 house over it. Used hose clamps. LFP 5/16'' Stainless Steel Y Fitting [LFP-SSY] - $24.95 : Lightning Force Performance I had to move the wallys over a bit and straighten them out so the floater wouldnt hit them. The filters had to lay on top of each other just a bit so they could fit in the gas tank. I snaped this pic and tried to go put it in. I had to go back and move around the pumps just a bit to get it to go in. Took me about 5min of messing with it to get it to go in. All in all it went right in and my gas gauge still works.

 

[keltalon]

Here is a pic of the dual wally set up I fabed up.. Cost me less than 40 bucks to fab it up. This is the fitting I used aswell to join the two wallys. I cut the pick up tubel and slid a 5/16 house over it. Used hose clamps. LFP 5/16'' Stainless Steel Y Fitting [LFP-SSY] - $24.95 : Lightning Force Performance I had to move the wallys over a bit and straighten them out so the floater wouldnt hit them. The filters had to lay on top of each other just a bit so they could fit in the gas tank. I snaped this pic and tried to go put it in. I had to go back and move around the pumps just a bit to get it to go in. Took me about 5min of messing with it to get it to go in. All in all it went right in and my gas gauge still works.

Thanks for info and picture. Soon as I get the head back on this will be something I will give attention.

 

[dsmmatt28]

I remember one time you said I was contatigous... Next you will want the T3 set up hahaha

 

[keltalon]

I remember one time you said I was contatigous... Next you will want the T3 set up hahaha

Yeah I am trying to catch up to the numbers you are putting down considering that our setups are somewhat similar So your suggetions are welcomed.

 

[keltalon]

Alright guys went to the dyno today and I am not happy Results 363hp 333.3TQ @ 20psi To make another long story short everytime we turned the boost up to anything above 20psi the car started to misfire above 5500rpm this meant, from my personal experience from working on my car in the past, one thing. Pushing coolant! Lets go back a couple months ago to when I blew the head gasket the car temperature reached about 246 degrees when I knoticed it I pulled the car over, shut it down , called a tow truck and had it towed home. Several days later I put a new head gasket on it not really thinking that the head might need to be surfaced. I was wrong. I think it should have been to ensure a flat surface. Its kind of funny that is does not push any coolant at 20 psi and runs perfectly fine. No oil water mixture, no overheating or anything it also sucks back in all the coolant that it pushes out while the car is cooling. So the moral of this saga, the head has to come off and have to be resurfaced. I will also check the block to make sure it is okay . I know thing for sure, when you start to make 400+HP be prepared to have all your car's weaknesses exposed and be prepared to spend time and money fixing them. Eventually I will reach that 500whp goal of mine Look at this picture some of the coolant we think is pushing out of the exhaust manifold only in this one area, and we suspect that just maybe the head has a slight crack in it. In the meatime I have about 4 heads setting at my shop and I will start porting on one as soon as I get this one off and the machine shop give me the verdict. So off the head come this weekend so stay tuned again.

I found out what was causing the fluid leak on my exhaust manifold as well. Its not coolant its oil that is coming out of #3 exhaust port. Reason, about 3 valve stem seal's springs popped off I knotice this when I was cleaning up the pulled head so all the valve stem seals will be replaced alone the the head being surfaced

 

[dsmmatt28]

I found out what was causing this leak as well. Its not coolant its oil that is coming out of #3 exhaust port. Reason, about 3 valve stem seal's springs popped off I knotice this when I was cleaning up the pulled head so all the valve stem seals will be replaced alone the the head being surfaced

Shit might as well get a fresh vlave job if you havent already. Your head is allready there. If you can clean up those small imperfections in there. Doesnt take much to clean those up makes the airflow a little smoother..

 

[keltalon]

Shit might as well get a fresh vlave job if you havent already. Your head is allready there. If you can clean up those small imperfections in there. Doesnt take much to clean those up makes the airflow a little smoother..

Gotcha

 

[We're on Boost]

Keltalon, inbetween the 363hp run and the 409hp run, did you fix something on the car?

Gary

 

[keltalon]

Keltalon, inbetween the 363hp run and the 409hp run, did you fix something on the car?

Gary

Yeah my cam angle sensor had moved. So the timing was off.

 

[keltalon]

Pics of my pull head!

 

[keltalon]

take a close look at the valve seal spring its all jacked up. Two of them actually came off!

 

[T9S1i]

ouu thats faulty!!!

did it burn a lot of oil on startup?

Planning on building anything up while the head is off?

NIce numbers above, thanks for keeping us updated on the progress of your car. Im waiting on some paychecks and my tax return to make some big moves with my s258 setup.

 

[We're on Boost]

Head sure looks nice and clean.
Glad you posted that Jack's Transmission link awhile back. The head o-rings and a lot of their other stuff looks really interesting. I would have never thought of o-ringing the head. I always thought that was done on the block deck. Doing it to the head would be cool because it would be pretty easy to ship a head to them. A block not so much.

Gary

 

[keltalon]

ouu thats faulty!!!

did it burn a lot of oil on startup?

Planning on building anything up while the head is off?

NIce numbers above, thanks for keeping us updated on the progress of your car. Im waiting on some paychecks and my tax return to make some big moves with my s258 setup.

Well as you can see the head has very low miles on it. But I am going to heed matt advise and have the head totally work: new valve job, resurfaced and new valve stem seals. It already has a very mild port job on it as well as bronze valve guides. I am going back with the mitsu mls gasket. The reason is I have at the shop a mitsu mls, a cometic standard mls and the felpro permatorque mls all used. The mitsu when put besides the others seems to be of better quality and i have gotten the best results from it than the others. I also wish I could ditch the 264 cams for something a little bigger for a little airflow improvement up top but that will have to come later when the money is right. As far as the oil issue goes for a while I could not figure out where my oil was going no leaks, no smoke issue but yet I had to put in one quart a week I guess it burned with the gas. This was odd considering the engine only has about 8000 miles on it. Its good to know that its not the pistons rings.

 

[keltalon]

Head sure looks nice and clean.
Glad you posted that Jack's Transmission link awhile back. The head o-rings and a lot of their other stuff looks really interesting. I would have never thought of o-ringing the head. I always thought that was done on the block deck. Doing it to the head would be cool because it would be pretty easy to ship a head to them. A block not so much.

Gary

Yeah the machine shop might give me a credit since thet don't have to clean it
Yeah jack seem like he might know a little something about this dsm thing! I saw a few of his youtube tech videos. Informative. I have good success with the mitsu mls gasket in the past so for now I am going to hold on the head o-ring . Also I don't mind keeping the thread udated I just want to make sure that, with my input and the suggestion from various forum members I can get the full power potential out of the bw s258 turbo.

 

[dsmmatt28]

Yeah the machine shop might give me a credit since that don't have to clean it
Yeah jack seem like he might know a little something about this dsm thing! I saw a few of his youtube tech videos. Informative. I have good success with the mitsu mls gasket in the past so for now I am going to hold on the head o-ring . Also I don't mind keeping the thread udated I just want to make sure that, with my input and the suggestion from various forum members I can get the full power potential out of the bw s258 turbo.

+1 I cant wait to see what the bw does on the t3. Actually the difference in turbine housings really.

 

[keltalon]

+1 I cant wait to see what the bw does on the t3. Actually the difference in turbine housings really.

That new housing should make a significant improvement just from what I have read!

 

[keltalon]

It kind of looks like you got a little spark blow out on that pull.

Well guys I finally got around to fixing some very key problems that I think have been holding my car back from making the power it should be making! First I changed the headgasket. This time I went with a mitsubishi mls and put several coats of copper spray on it. Seals like a charm, No more pushing coolant. I had the head resurfaced and new valve stem seals put on. We also found out the cam angle sensor was bad this is what was contributing the misfire I was getting and we think this is what was really holding the car back as well so we replaced it. So I will again be going back to the dyno to see if 475 is attainable! Hopefully this weekend!:

 

[keltalon]

Well guys just to let you know i am still around. To make it short I just I started pushing coolant again after the new head gakset, the problem an overtorqued arp standard stud. So I said that this is enough so i pulled the engine and reworked it!!!! My new engine setup


-New fresh ported and polished head.
-supertech std black nitride valves
-O-ring block with ss piano wire sticking .005 above deck to accept mitsu mls gasket per shep recommendation.
-Set of l19 head studs

these are the changes that i think will give me what i need to fight the coolant issue.

 

[dsmmatt28]

I was having the same issue.. Just fixed it.. I had to have the head machince again and new set of arps. Its so nice to not be pushing coolant again. Im going to the dyno next sat. My car has a slight sputter between 5-5500 under load.then it goes away. Im trying to figure out what it is so I can turn the boost up. Im at 25psi right now. So as soon as figure out what it is I will turn the boost up. I think its running a lean in there.Is what the problem is and ecu is pulling timing.

 

[T9S1i]

well i'll add to the BW s258 thread.

I finally started doing some tuning http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/332271-v3-installed-bw-s258-tuning-inside.html seen there. Ive got the car tuned pretty well at 20 psi and i was about to crank up the boost, but my fuel pump rewire is being janky, so Im going to rewire it during the week sometime and get back to tuning.

My plan is to run the car strictly on 100 octane soon here (when im done with this tank of gas to be exact) since there isnt any e85 local to me. Then turn up the boost and tune, after im happy, i'll probably hit up the dyno and get a nice fine tune done and then hit the track. I'll post results as they come so check out my thread posted above in the tuning section.

At some point, ive got some more upgrades coming my way, but for now the car will be tuned as it is in my profile.

Good luck fellow s258/259 users and keep things posted up!

 

[We're on Boost]

-O-ring block with ss piano wire sticking .005 above deck to accept mitsu mls gasket per shep recommendation.
-Set of l19 head studs

Could you elaborate on the o-ring job a little? Who did the machine work? Did you have to strip your block and send it someplace to have it done? You grooved the block, did shep think that grooving the head was not such a good idea or what? Do you think the L19 studs are necessary with the o-rings or would the o-rings work ok with regular arp's?

Gary

 

[We're on Boost]

My plan is to run the car strictly on 100 octane soon here (when im done with this tank of gas to be exact) since there isnt any e85 local to me.

A-ha good ol west coast. There is no E85 near me either. I think my plan will be to try to make about 400awhp on straight 92 octane pump pee with no spray. Side benefit of having less hp - maybe less problems!
How much does your 100 octane stuff cost? Can you actually buy it at a pump there someplace or what?

Gary

 

[keltalon]

Could you elaborate on the o-ring job a little? Who did the machine work? Did you have to strip your block and send it someplace to have it done? You grooved the block, did shep think that grooving the head was not such a good idea or what? Do you think the L19 studs are necessary with the o-rings or would the o-rings work ok with regular arp's?

Gary

A local shop did the machine work. I used a spare block that i had laying around. shep only suggested the .005 height above the surface of block in order for me to use the mitsubishi mls gasket without any issues because this is the height they use with their race heads. I went with the l19 just to ensure i would have the clamping force necessary for my set up.

 

[dsmmatt28]

OK i fixed my sputter problem. Had to gap the plugs to .018. I was running NGK bpr7es. I'm at 30psi right now 12.5 afr no knock Idcs are at 72% 24* timing straight e85. Let me tell you guys It pulls so F### hard. I think I'm done tuning for now. I'm going to the track Friday and to the dyno Sat. So I will be posting up some numbers if I don't break anything at the track.