The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support ExtremePSI

replaced head and no start

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chrisff521

10+ Year Contributor
46
0
Jun 9, 2010
Deer Park, New_York
I went and installed a new head after my last head jumped timing due to something getting stuck int the cam gear and now the car wont start. It cranks, but no start at all. I smell fuel, and theres only spark on the outer cylinders but wouldnt it still start on two cylinders at least? The cas was set, the motor was set at TDC, everything is grounded. The harness was pretty hacked up and rigged by the last owner but I still plugged everything in where they are supposed to go. The only thing i dont know is if the injectors are in the right order. I just plugged them in order from shortest to longest from left to right on the valve cover. And the spark plugs are in correct order.
 
Since you unplugged everything its very possible you plugged the CPS connector into the A/C compressor plug and the A/C compressor plug into the CPS. Its on the right side (driver side) just behind the cam gears next to the IM. The CPS plug has a BLUE/RED/BLACK triangle plug so make sure it isn't plugged into your A/C compressor since the connectors look identical.
If thats not the case check voltage at the CAS/CPS connectors with a multimeter, use the below info and make sure the voltages are there since the wiring harness was hacked.

CAS Testing:
  1. Disconnect the sensor and measure on the engine harness side with the key in the "ON" position.
    • BLK (Pin 1) - Ground (0 ohms to ground)
    • BLU/RED (Pin 2) - 4.8v to 5.2v
    • RED (Pin 3) - 12v
  2. If everything checks good with a multimeter plug the CAS connector back in and check voltages with the engine cranking.
    • BLU/RED (Pin 2) - 0.4v to 3.0v (If your reading 0v while cranking then the CAS is dead)

CPS Testing:
  1. Disconnect the sensor and measure on the engine harness side with the key in the "ON" position.
    • BLK (Pin 1) - Ground (0 ohms to ground)
    • BLU/WHT (Pin 2) - 4.8v to 5.2v
    • RED (Pin 3) - 12v
  2. If everything checks good with a multimeter plug the CAS connector back in and check voltages with the engine cranking.
    • BLU/WHT (Pin 2) - 0.4v to 4.0v (If your reading 0v while cranking then the CPS is dead)


I know you said the CAS was set so I'm assuming you've got a 1g CAS? Your profile doesn't show much for mods so I'm sorry I'm not much help.


:dsm:
 
I dont have AC in my car though. The compressor and condensor were removed. Only the lines were there. And yes I have a 1g cas.
 
My problem was that my coolant temp sensor was bad and it was flooding the spark plugs and I got new plugs and it starts up great and runs.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top