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Replaced starter and still no fire

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topekagsx

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Nov 14, 2009
Topeka, Kansas
Ok so i got my 93 Eclipse GSX a few weeks ago. I get it home and go back out to start it and the starter made a terrible grinding noise and the car wouldn't fire. So i go down to advanced get a new starter and put it in. Now i keep blowing the ignition switch fuse in the main fusible link that is connected to the battery. Anyone got any ideas?
 
yes the wires are connected correctly...it's only 3 wires kinda had to hook it up the wrong way
 
What did that last sentence mean.

If you didn't have a problem with the fuse before and now you do then you either crossed a wire or the starter itself has a problem with a short.
 
i've had 2 different starters to try and same thing with both...i also pulled all wiring to the starter out and visually inspected it...there was no damage to any of the wires...then i reinstalled the starter and it still doesn't fire...i have replaced starters on dsm's before so i know i hooked it up correctly...i'm just looking for ideas on what will cause the ignition switch fuse to blow and maybe a diagram of the wiring that runs to that fuse so i know where to look
 
Yo think I might have something. Page 143 on that ^ electrical service manual. Says that when the engine is cranking, charging voltage is applied to the "L" terminal of the alternator. So I would guess that that wire we found hanging off of your alternator could be the problem. Text me once you try that... :D
 
Ok. Two things. First, you have a wire crossed somewhere. Recheck everything. Second, the grinding noise you had mentioned worries me. Slowly rotate the flywheel and check for worn/broke/missing teeth. If anything doesn't look right, get a second opinion.
 
Like beemer92 said, you may have a wire messed up. You also may be blowing the fuse if the starter solenoid is bad. If this went out then it is very possible that it is linking to ground. When you apply energy to it, it is immediatley flowing more amps straight to ground than the fuse will hold. A simple way to check your starter without taking it off is as follows. Take a jumper wire (a long gator clip works well) attach the one end to the starter signal wire terminal on the solenoid and then tap the other end of the wire on your positive battery terminal. The starter should turn over. MAKE SURE that your car is in NEUTRAL!!! I dont want to be blamed for someone running them self over with their own car. If it fires, and the engine turns over, then it is somewhere in the starter signal wire itself. If it does not turn over then you have a bad starter or ground issue.
 
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starter has been tested several times...wires have been verified hooking to the starter...flywheel has been checked and is fine...battery is brand new as i thought that was the cause of the problem to start with...i had -Ax- come over and watch the fuse as i try to start it it lights up glowing red and melts within about 30 seconds...we found a couple loose wires by the alternator that i have to trace down and hopefully that fixes it
 
I really dont think the loose wires are the culprit. You can crank a motor over without even having the alternator installed. Put a multimeter on your starter signal wire and have someone tap the key real quick. If you are not getting 12v at the wire then it is bleeding off power somewhere between the ignition switch and the signal wire plug.
 
ok and the signal wire should be the black and yellow wire that is like 12gage correct?
 
yes it is the singal wire that connects to the tab on the solenoid. Also, this may sound dumb, but check to make sure you have the signal wire plugged into your main harness. I have made this misteak before, due to being in a hurry
 
fuse blows after about 30 seconds of cranking the car over but gets red hot instantly....when i test the signal wire i know i'll put the red multimeter probe on the tab the signal wire hooks to but where sound i put the black probe?
 
fuse blows after about 30 seconds of cranking the car over but gets red hot instantly....when i test the signal wire i know i'll put the red multimeter probe on the tab the signal wire hooks to but where sound i put the black probe?

The black goes to ground if your measuring voltages, any bare metal on the body or engine block.

Does your fuel pump work? Blowing the main ignition fuse only when cranking puts the fault up high in the diagrams. It looks like only the starter, fuel pump and ECU are that high up the chain with everything else having other fuses that should blow first. But they may be others, I didn't look that closely.
 
you want to put the red prob into the plug that goes on the starter tab and ground the black prob to any metal engine part or body. Negative terminal on the battery is optimal but not necessary.
 
checked the signal wire and im only geting 9v not 12v...what are the olds that this is my problem?
 
PROBLEM SOLVED...it was the wire that had got knicked on the fuel pump when the previous owner installed a walbro 190lph pump:nono:
NEW PROBLEM...as i was driving home(like a grandma not aggressivly) the rear end locked up so now i gotta see if its the transfercase or the rear diff:cry::barf:
 
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