MAFS replaced and still pops P101

[Wolfwood_R]

this issue started when the alternator and battery was replace by the previous owner in a shop

So i got this 98 gs spider with the 2.4 L 16-valve SOHC Mitsubishi 4G64 engine from a friend for cheap the car would run when cold then once warmed up would sputter out and die if you gave it gas it would die quicker. car runs when MAFS is disconnected. try cleaning to no avail at one time i connected the MAFS and for a bit it work except would choke up and loose power under WOT. the car pops P101 code i bit the bullet and bought a new MAFS at 171$ put in everything seemed golden then it did the dieing thing again in morning i reseated the connection to the MAFS and the ecu via a battery reset and it went away now its back cleaned out he connector and reset again and the car worked once warmed up so i took it around the block and seamed good so i dove it a bit more and then it came back sputttering and dieing. im wondering if its a ECU issue or oxigen sensors or what. oh yeah the P101 code is back thoughts ?

Other issues with the car
do to the MAFS its been running rich some black smoke and blue smoke especally at high rpms
causes possible valve steam seals

maintenance done
new fule filter
new PCV
thoittle body taken out and cleaned was caked and the intake does not look good
egr valve was not replaced however it moves and when a vacume is applyed the car dies so should be good
MAFS a1 cardone
new oil changed at acquisition and then again at 250miles do to it being filfthy 5w 30
new air filter
new spark plugs auto light (they were cheap and no NKG at wally world) spark plugs gaped to .41
(guide
2.4L
.39 - .043")
replace power stearing pump

roof repair the roof was leaking a lot there is some water damage

 

[jkeesee21]

It could be a short in the wiring or a leak in the intake causing a loss of vacuum. I would say check the harness and wiring first and go from there.

 

[Wolfwood_R]

i pulled the intake manifold its pretty dirty from blow by this is a pic though the t body didn't find any cracks and i haven't found any leaks. going to switch oil from 5w-30 to 10w30 and thicken with lucas oil to try and minimize the blow by any suggestions would be helpful.

pulled the IAC both of these pics are after cleaning im going to pick up some gas and tbody cleaner today to finish cleaning the filth

checked the harness and the connector to the ecm and cleaned to no avail as soon as i get the intake manifold clean and back on ill get a multimeter ive had 2 people tell me that it might be a faulty ECU

 

[Wolfwood_R]

i had a death in the family after my last post im finally back in town and put the car together after 4 bottels of cleaner and a gallon of gas the intake is still dirty but good enough to reinstall injectors look good cleaned them too the unfronualy when i took out the IAC its a sinode that separated when i started the car up it idles at 1.7k rpm that sucks any who i had a friend in Montana send me a ecu from a 99 eclipse convertible for free so i decided to do some brain surgery and swamped them out and pull the IAC again i don't see any thing too line the two peaces up but noticed some friction while moving it back and forth put some light lube on it when i fired up the idle settle at 1k to 1.1k rpm so i may need to tinker with it some more but the car after warming up did the same thing just got rough and died the more gas you give it the quicker it fails.

had a mechanic friend look at my pics he says that the # 2 spark plug look like massive compression loss and could cause this issues what do you think?? any ways im going to track down a compression tool im poor right now and i found a small multimeter going to run some test on the mafs circuit any thoughts or suggestions still welcome

spark plug age unknown old since replaced with auto lights
other notes if i play with the throttle i can keep it going if it bogs in low rpms if i give it more gas i let off and i get better for a split second if i can tease it above 2.6krpm it runs ok
thank you

suspects

wiring
TPS
O2 sensors are probably caked in grime
rebuilt MAFS
compression loss is possible not confirmed

off the list

vacuum leaks gone thought the car extensively cant find any only area hard to reach and not 100% is the canister for fumes

ECU

spark plugs

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Wolfwood_R]

read in different post about a similar issue with the mafs they fixed theirs with a new fuel pump and regulator so i hoped in my car and got a regular from the junk yard off a 99 galant to no avil the car seemed to smoke a little more if anything the car i pulled it off of had the airbags deployed and the engine look really good there are differences in the intake manifold and the ignition system but other then that its the same motor i pulled new oil cap from that car it had some grime after testing i pulled the cap and there was some white marbling in the oil under the cap the rest of the oil just looks black but when i first go the car it was like this too im in a high humidity environment but now more then ever i need to get a compression test on this car i have a friend with the gauge hopefully will be able to evaluate soon i hope its not a head gasket. still want to get a fuel pump to but im going to do the compression test first if it fails badly i think i should just scrap the engine and get one out of a galant in the junk yard for 200$

oil cap
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/1499532_445797315520456_1024288865_n.jpg

new fuel
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1488099_445780158855505_201615348_n.jpg

 

[Wolfwood_R]

finally got a compression tool i was loosing light so i did a quick test all of the cylinders after 5sec of turning over read around 190psi plus or minus 5 psi so that looks really good i think ive never done a compression test before but i im pretty sure that's pretty tight there plan on doing another test any suggestions. i need to get new spark plugs i bought the auto lights as a quick fix but they are absolute junk the one i labeled #2 last time has already fail with less then 300miles the jacket around the copper bit separated and grounded out its the second one on the left going to pick up some NKG's soo any ideas like is anyone on this forum is it just me talking to my self what is up.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Wolfwood_R]

MAFS is no good im getting a different one in the mail from another DSM owner my MAFS starts at 1.43 V on start up which is good then once it comes into its own it get stuck at 2.6v and if i tease the throttle and get it to rev up it doesn't change the voltage at all its steady on the output until the car dies and then it read 5v did more comprehensive compression test the results at 10 turns after warm up of the motor was C1=195psi C2=185 C3=195 C4=187 and the wet results were C1=210 C2=205 C3=209 C4=204 changed the plugs car runs smother noticed that the car is producing a lot of positive pressure out the valve cover so im not sure whats going on.

ok got the MAFS from a friend and i know its good it does the something so that off the list car is still behaving badly car is really living up to its new name "Nightmare" but i did find that the generator relay is missing its case im going to pick up a new one but im told this is a back up system and wont effect anything so i guess the next step is 02 sensors and fuel pump replacement and checking the wiring if there are any input or idea's please post

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[staytrue2007]

You could have another sensor pulling down your 5v referance to the maf. When it warms up turn off the engine unplug the maf connector and turn the key on engine off. Check pin 3 of your maf connector with a volt meter.It should be the blue and yellow wire. Black lead of the volt meter on a good ground. Place the red lead of the volt meter on pin 3 making sure it contacts the wire. It should read +5v. If not you know you have a supply voltage problem.