Questions for Justin...

[Colt4G63 also]

Thank you!

 

[kronus]

For a stock cam automatic AWD (2g if that helps) are there any specific turbos (or custom builds) that you would recommend to keep near stock spool (around the 2500rpm range) but flow closer to a 16g? I realize a 14b would fit the spool requirement, however I'd like something with a bit more potential to hit the 300 whp mark.

And while I realize a E316g would be plenty fast to spool on a 5-speed, I can't imagine how much of a dog it would be out of boost without brake boosting at every stop light.

TL;DR: Stock/custom turbo build that keeps stock like spool but can hit 300whp (if that's even a possibility.)

 

[CrackedDSM]

For a stock cam automatic AWD (2g if that helps) are there any specific turbos (or custom builds) that you would recommend to keep near stock spool (around the 2500rpm range) but flow closer to a 16g? I realize a 14b would fit the spool requirement, however I'd like something with a bit more potential to hit the 300 whp mark.

And while I realize a E316g would be plenty fast to spool on a 5-speed, I can't imagine how much of a dog it would be out of boost without brake boosting at every stop light.

TL;DR: Stock/custom turbo build that keeps stock like spool but can hit 300whp (if that's even a possibility.)

My buddy Kronus. I had a 1G w/ HKS 272 cams, eGay 16G(much more laggy than the MHI 16G variants), and a tired motor...and I loved the spool of the 16G. With a fresh motor, stock cams, and just a 16G, it would spool incredible. No need to worry about lazyness at all. You could always swap to a 1G head and go Cyclone IM like I did with mine though. Helped a ton.


But Justin can answer turbo suggestions better than I can. I don't think you'd make 300awhp through an auto(much more parasitic loss than a 5-speed) with an FP Big28, but it's worth a shot. It'd spool fast and flow something inbetween a 14B and small 16G.

 

[kronus]

Was that 1g an auto?

 

[CrackedDSM]

Yeah. It's in my sig.

 

[JusMX141]

For a stock cam automatic AWD (2g if that helps) are there any specific turbos (or custom builds) that you would recommend to keep near stock spool (around the 2500rpm range) but flow closer to a 16g? I realize a 14b would fit the spool requirement, however I'd like something with a bit more potential to hit the 300 whp mark.

Small 16G, or run an Evo X compressor in a 14B cover like I currently have on my daily driver....but run a 14B's 6cm2 turbine housing instead of the 7cm2 you'd normally want to run on these turbos.

You can't go *too* large on the compressor or high on the boost level or you'll run into surge....but these are both great solutions for autos with light mods.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Small 16G, or run an Evo X compressor in a 14B cover like I currently have on my daily driver....but run a 14B's 6cm2 turbine housing instead of the 7cm2 you'd normally want to run on these turbos.

You can't go *too* large on the compressor or high on the boost level or you'll run into surge....but these are both great solutions for autos with light mods.

How far does the compressor cover need to be machined for an Evo X wheel if at all?

 

[JusMX141]

Lots- it's a 47/68mm compressor.

 

[Slid3RMonk3y]

Hey Justin, I just wanted to ask you here if my research lead me to the correct answer or not. I have a 20g that I got from you a while back and was looking at doing my water lines and after searching around I could not get a super straight answer on the water fitting size, but I believe at this point it is a m14x1.5. To your knowledge is this correct?

Thanks in advance

 

[JusMX141]

14 x 1.5 is correct....the same as Garrett T25/T28 and GT-series ball bearing turbos.

 

[Slid3RMonk3y]

Awesome, thank you very much for the verification.

 

[MichaelSuch]

Hey Justin, I just bought a used 18g turbo. I was curious if you could tell me who may have done the conversion or any info about it at all really? It is stamped 18GTR, it doesn't seem like an ebay turbo. The turbine wheel is clipped as well. Compressor wheel measured 50mm

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[JusMX141]

"18G" and "TR" are separate entities....one is the compressor size, the other is the name of the shop which did the work (Texas Rebuild).

 

[Derail20T]

Hi Justin, I have a question about an older old school fp red turbo. I acquired this turbo last year and haven't installed it yet. It has a small chip on the compressor wheel, so I was thinking about getting it rebuilt and replacing the compressor wheel. Are there good options for upgrading the compressor wheel? I'm not sure if I can upgrade it to a newer HTA wheel or a 35r wheel. What would be my best option for the best performance and reliability? Thanks

 

[JusMX141]

You're not going to improve much on the 'ol Red. Newer options like the "revised" old-school Red which used a 35R compressor wheel added a decent amount of lag but no real airflow benefit due to the limited turbine a/r. At the end of the day you're still using a 7cm2 (.49 a/r) housing, so you can't expect real 35R (T3 .82 a/r) airflow numbers even if you're pushing it to the max.

If the chip is small, I'd say run it as-is and see if you like it first before sinking a pile of money into it. A small chip isn't likely to hurt anything....hell Dave's 6-blade HX40 had a small chip in one of the blades the entire time it was on his car, and it still went 9.12 and 158mph with no ill effects or repeated rebuilds required.

 

[Derail20T]

Thanks for the answer
Justin. After inspecting my turbo closer, I don't think that I'll have any issues using that compressor wheel. I'm going to install the turbo how it is and see what kind of results I can get. If I want to upgrade again in the future I'll likely have to change my setup completely and go to a turbo with a T3 housing. Thanks again!

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[JusMX141]

Yup, you're 100% fine with that wheel.

 

[Derail20T]

Hey Justin, I just picked up a big 16g for a project and it seems like there is an issue with it. There is no noticeable shaft play but when I spin the wheels there is a ticking from the turbine wheel. Is it possible that all of the oil has drained from it and the wheel is contacting the housing? Do you think that it will correct itself once there is oil in the bearing cartridge?
Here is a link to the video: http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/D...ds/tmp_5428-20151113_054503440805053.mp4.html

 

[98RedGs]

Hey Justin,

I purchased from you almost a year ago a HX40 56/86mm 6-blade HX40 and on wastegate manifold for the setup in my GST. Now that I've gotten some seat time in it plus some additional upgrades I want to confirm that I shouldn't be searching for a BEP housing or maybe something a little smaller to be more efficient for the car. I've picked up a setup from a friend of Brian Crower 276/276's with springs/retainers which we're now running in the car but haven't increased the redline yet (still 7k).

Do you think I should continue with the 86mm hot-side on the hx40 or swap to a more efficient hot-side as I'm uncertain if my mods really allow that turbo to work at it's potential powerband.

 

[JusMX141]

Hey Justin, I just picked up a big 16g for a project and it seems like there is an issue with it. There is no noticeable shaft play but when I spin the wheels there is a ticking from the turbine wheel. Is it possible that all of the oil has drained from it and the wheel is contacting the housing? Do you think that it will correct itself once there is oil in the bearing cartridge?
Here is a link to the video: http://s1202.photobucket.com/user/Derail2T/media/Mobile Uploads/tmp_5428-20151113_054503440805053.mp4.html

Man I've watched that video a handful of times now and I can't hear a thing. I'm not sure if my speakers don't go loud enough or what....but if there's any doubt, put some oil into the feed hole and let it drain into the bearing cartridge then re-check everything and see if the noise goes away. It must be super-quiet if I can't hear it on the video...not sure if the wheel is maybe hitting a burr or something inside the housing perhaps.

Hey Justin,

I purchased from you almost a year ago a HX40 56/86mm 6-blade HX40 and on wastegate manifold for the setup in my GST. Now that I've gotten some seat time in it plus some additional upgrades I want to confirm that I shouldn't be searching for a BEP housing or maybe something a little smaller to be more efficient for the car. I've picked up a setup from a friend of Brian Crower 276/276's with springs/retainers which we're now running in the car but haven't increased the redline yet (still 7k).

Do you think I should continue with the 86mm hot-side on the hx40 or swap to a more efficient hot-side as I'm uncertain if my mods really allow that turbo to work at it's potential powerband.

That turbo would've had the .55 BEP housing on it already- if you want something smaller, you need a smaller turbo as that's the smallest a/r housing made for a HX40 coupled with the smallest compressor inducer and the 12-blade turbine to make the best use of the exhaust energy. Basically I don't know of any way for a HX40 to spool any quicker than the setup you currently have.

If you mean "more-efficient" in the sense that it allows the turbine to flow more by being a larger scroll (which also slows spool down a bit), then the only option is to go T3 as there are no larger DSM-flanged turbine housings available from Bullseye Power. Of course that's a costly venture- everything except the turbo itself would need to be changed.

 

[Derail20T]

Thanks for the reply Justin. I ran some oil through it and the noise has seemed to go away. There also seemed to be a small burr that the turbine wheel was hitting so I removed that and it does seem a lot better. I think that I will try running it and hopefully I won't have any issues. Thanks again for the advice!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I run 8500 through a BEP .55 housing using one of Justins's 8 blade units(thanks Jus) and it spools around 3800. Mine has Kelford 264's and a 10:1 motor on E but I can't imagine anymore fun!

 

[2geclipse565]

@JusMX141 Question, Im trying to get the proper oil set up for my new HX40. As per your recommendation I do believe its -3AN for the feed and -12AN for the oil drain.

1. Do you think this -3AN line will work just fine? http://www.nitrousexpress.com/17347/5/15/52/10025-d-3-2ft-stainless-steel-braided-hose-red.html
2. I can not find a -12AN T3 oil drain flange. They all seem to come in -10AN. Does any body make one, or should I just TIG a -12AN bung to the T3 flange?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

https://www.rtmracing.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17878

This is what I use. I have a BEP housing tho. Works great but tight fit. I run -4an feed from OFH and have a filter in line that helps restrict too with a banjo fitting just until Jus chimes in.

 

[JusMX141]

@JusMX141 Question, Im trying to get the proper oil set up for my new HX40. As per your recommendation I do believe its -3AN for the feed and -12AN for the oil drain.

1. Do you think this -3AN line will work just fine? http://www.nitrousexpress.com/17347/5/15/52/10025-d-3-2ft-stainless-steel-braided-hose-red.html
2. I can not find a -12AN T3 oil drain flange. They all seem to come in -10AN. Does any body make one, or should I just TIG a -12AN bung to the T3 flange?

4AN feed if you have a large-enough drain to handle the flow. The factory HX35/40 feed lines are actually 6AN...I don't see the need to cut flow in half if it can drain fairly-well.

www.ebay.com/itm/NYPPD-Turbo-Oil-Drain-Flange-Universal-T6-Borg-Warner-S400-Billet-Aluminum-/221951147489

That fits the turbo- the oil pan will need a bung welded to it.