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Questions for Justin...

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Just like I thought. This shaft play is rediculous. It isn't my turbo. I was rebuilding it as a favor but this rebuild kit isn't gonna work for this ebay turbo, and that compressor wheel would be crap. I think my friend might as well chuck this one.
 
Turbo is junk- thrust wear caused the compressor wheel to hit the cover, ruining both parts. This is what $180 buys you on eBay these days...although in the defense of E-Motor USA or whoever built it, the turbo does appear to have balance grinds on the locknut showing it was balanced on a VSR like a Genuine MHI turbo. Still doesn't make the thrust hardware worth a shit.

Here's one I received a while ago from a customer- you can see it has low miles as there's not even rust on the center housing yet. Someone actually thought this was able to be repaired / worth repairing:

Blown Junk eBay Chinese Evo III 16G Turbo / Talon Eclipse DSM - YouTube


Keep the parts kit for a real Mitsu turbo, and keep the turbine housing and adjustable wastegate actuator from that eBay Chinacharger to replace a cracked turbine housing on a 14B some day.

By the way- that's one of the shittiest rebuild kits I've seen....it's missing half the parts you need to do the job right.
 
Thats just like the one I WAS working with, its now scrapped. TY all
 
Is this turbo done? It had some thrust play and there is some light scoring on the comp housing and you can see that the comp wheel had been rubbing on the housing. Will a new comp wheel be needed?
Here is the inside of the housing, very light scratching could bearly feel it. No scoring at all seems like surface scratches.
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Here is the comp where you can see that it had touched the housing
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LOL Justin you're good! Close but its a CT20b the CT26 much better cousin LOL. But ya this is the only damage that is done turbine housing/wheel are fine.
 
Justin can you identify this turbo
 

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If my wastegate flapper isnt closing all the way on my 14b, is it ok to just shim the actuator out with some washers until the flapper is closed? Or should I be looking or a new wastegate actuator. I'm just thinking if I shim it, then the flapper might not open all the way?
 
Lots of serious 14b racers shim the wastegate, the only thing is if you already had boost creep for example, then it probably wouldn't help. If you don't have creep, add a couple washers and see if it helps.
 
Yea, no boost creep just slow spool. In 2nd gear it takes me until almost 4500-5000rpm to hit 14psi(what my mbc is set at) but once there it stays steady until redline.

And I can see the flapper arm is slightly open
 
Holy smokes, you should be seeing 14psi at ~3000-3200. I would definitely try shimming that wastegate.

Other than that, you don't have any boost leaks or pre-turbo exhaust leaks do you?
 
Holy smokes, you should be seeing 14psi at ~3000-3200. I would definitely try shimming that wastegate.

Other than that, you don't have any boost leaks or pre-turbo exhaust leaks do you?

No boost leaks just boost leak tested to 20psi, held just fine. And no exhaust leaks at the manifold or at the turbo.
 
Then I would definitely try shimming the wastegate and if it helps.
 
Shimmed it 2 washers. Spools alot quicker now and still no boost creep. :thumb: thanks for the help!
 
built 6 bolt
93 octane
daily driven
AWD
3" exhaust
either stock or 264HKS cams
Overall goal is approximately 450awhp if possible.


Justin,

My question is in relation to the HX35 i got from you and the several PM's we have had lately, but I thought it may be better to share them here.

I know the subject of holsets is discussed quite extensively, but there are a few things im still left wondering about.


As you know I have the 7 blade hx35 with the twin scroll 12^2cm T3 housing. The compressor is capable of 60lb/min. I did not have intentions of running a divided manifold due to cost(manifold and two wastegates), so I am trying to plan out a good setup.

If I were to go with a non-divided manifold on the twin scroll housing it has been mentioned that I may not see peak boost until 4k-5k RPM, yet the same setup has yielded 132mph trap speeds on a AWD 1G(supposed 600hp). I have yet to find out what rpm this member has produced full spool.

On a non-divided manifold with the bolton BEP .55AR housing it is said that I can reach full spool as early as 3500rpm , yet as you stated in the PM it may not be able to reach full "capacity" and be choked for power later in the RPM range.

There is also a .70AR housing available but finding information on it is proving difficult after searches. If this housing(when mated to a proper t3 manifold) can produce full spool by 3500-4k rpm and not fall on its face up top it may be an option. Seeing as it is quite larger I am afraid that it may not spool until 5K+ RPM....which is a nono.


I went the holset direction to avoid having a turbo that would fall on its face up top, I am needing something to pull consistently to stock redline, but not take all day to spool. I know each option has its benefits, but I am still lost on which route to actually take.


-So how hard is the bolt on .55AR BEP housing going to fall on its face later in the rpm's?
-- will I only see ~55lb/min flow or drastically lower?
-If I do use the non-divided manifold on the divided twin scroll housing, will the power come closer to 5K rpm gradually, or lag up until then and hit like a drop kick in the back?


Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated.
 
The member you are refering to (bwhite I believe) saw 20psi at 4.5k and 35psi by 5.5k. I have been talking to a lot of the hx35 guys since I am using one in my current build.
 
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