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Questions for Justin...

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A couple questions in regards to 14b/16g style turbo's, if you don't mind:

If tastefully porting the volute around the exhaust wheel (the circle lip), any gains from that?

Also, is it possible to take standard journal bearings and enlarge the holes to provide even more lubrication? Is there any substancial advantage to running a thrust bearing with an extra oil hole?

Thank you
 
If tastefully porting the volute around the exhaust wheel (the circle lip), any gains from that?
Don't open any area around the wheel unless you want to ruin the turbo's efficiency.
Also, is it possible to take standard journal bearings and enlarge the holes to provide even more lubrication?
I see no benefit to this- if larger holes would be better, the manufacturer would have considered this in development.
Is there any substancial advantage to running a thrust bearing with an extra oil hole?
On certain turbos when switching to a larger thrust collar, perhaps- but again most of this has been taken into consideration when the turbo was being built.
 
Before i ask ,i would like to say thanks for all the help you have given me in the past but now i have a new question.My turbo which i believe to be a bw s256 et was smoking.I pulled it off and discovered about 3/16 of axial play and slight wear on the compresser housing and wheel.The wear marks on the housing just catch your fingernail and the turbo still worked great before i yanked it.Is the housing still useable and can i buy an upgrade wheel with rebuild kit for this turbo to make it a s258-259?I can post pics later but the batt in my calipers is dead.:sosad:
 
Turbo's probably junk if it has enough play to rub the housings as described.

There are many more things that happen when a turbo develops enough play for the wheels to rub the housings than one may think. The turbine seal lip can on the turbine wheel can rub against the center housing, completely wrecking the turbine and the housing. Depending how rapidly the shaft play occurs, the turbine wheel or compressor can spike the housing at full speed- bending the turbine wheel or shaft and rendering the turbo unable to be rebuilt. I actually had a HX35 like that a few weeks ago for a local customer- visible damage to the compressor wheel, none to the turbine....but upon disassembly the turbine had rubbed both the center housing and the turbine housing, bending the turbine and wrecking the turbine seal lip.

Basically I'd saying you need as little as a rebuild with a new compressor wheel to as much as a whole new CHRA.
 
Justin, do you know any manufacturers that are capable of either casting or machining a one-off turbine housing? I need a Vband connecting housing (GT42r style) with a divided t4 inlet, 4" Vband outlet and the port design is similar to the 83mm exhaust wheel on a BW S475. Its for my titanium ETT 64mm inducer compressor wheel BW S310g. It also currently has a cast back plate I will get Kisner to machine out of billet.

I know its asking a lot, but BW won't do anything for me. It currently has a divided t6 housing with 5" outlet and the housing weighs in around 30# by itself!
 
I don't, Tim. Casting turbine housings properly is a delicate process- you have complete turds like the DSM bolt-on housings offered by Precision, to the stainless bolt-on works of art offered by FP.

I'd feel more comfortable using something that already exists and having it machined- have you looked into the Holset HX52 or 55 turbine housings? I know they attach with a v-band; not exactly sure what the dimensions are, though.
 
Im buying a fp 3055 from a member, my question is how would this turbo do on pump gas? And any other info on this that you could give me. i cant seem to find any info about it online, Im looking to use this on a daily street set up. He says the 3076r is the same thing?
 
Will a turbo with in out play be repairable with a rebuild kit? I was told that in these cases that machining will usually have to be done to the shaft itself. How do I know if machining of any kind is needed while i have it apart?
 
I don't, Tim. Casting turbine housings properly is a delicate process- you have complete turds like the DSM bolt-on housings offered by Precision, to the stainless bolt-on works of art offered by FP.

I'd feel more comfortable using something that already exists and having it machined- have you looked into the Holset HX52 or 55 turbine housings? I know they attach with a v-band; not exactly sure what the dimensions are, though.

I second this.. but the outlet is a 4.625" Half-marmon flange. You would have to turn the OD down to 4.5" to use a 4" V-band.

Let me know if you need/want some pictures Tim. :D

Definitely would be curious to see how much you can push that turbine housing and what sort of spool you get on your 2.3 :hellyeah:
 
Hello, I have a blown PTE DBB 5031rle and i wanted to use the turbine wheel for another application as it's in excellent condition. But as I measured the that where the bearings go, where the turbine side bearing rides, it fits fine. Now where the compressor side bearing would ride, the diameter of the shaft is smaller. So in other words the turbine shaft itself has 2 different OD areas where both bearings ride in. Could it be converted/milled to fit another type of bearing?

I've done this with great success, (and machined weheels to fit their BB sections)

just order a journal bearing in -.005 ID and standard OD
 
I second this.. but the outlet is a 4.625" Half-marmon flange. You would have to turn the OD down to 4.5" to use a 4" V-band.

Let me know if you need/want some pictures Tim. :D

Definitely would be curious to see how much you can push that turbine housing and what sort of spool you get on your 2.3 :hellyeah:

Does the Holset stuff use a v-band connection to the center cartridge?

Borg Warner S310G is using a 63mm inducer x 92mm exducer, 96mm ETT tip billet Titanium compressor wheel, 80mm inducer x 73mm exducer turbine wheel on currently a 1.10 A/R T6 exhaust housing. The compressor cover is an anti-surge 5" compressor inlet, with a 4.21" v-band outlet, a cast backplate and steel center section, and has a longer shaft length than a BW S362 or 366, or 475, hence the custom housing. I can take some pictures and post them up if you like.


Yeah, I also know about the machining down of the Marmon flange to deal with that.
 
The HX5- series secure the housings to the CHRA with V-Bands.

The HX52 turbine exducer is smaller than what you listed for the S310G.. so you will have to take a decent amount of metal out.

The HX52 turbine exducer is 70.x mm.

But the inducer is 84.x mm which is considerably larger diameter and there would be a ton of leak between the tips and the housing.

So the HX52 turbine is a bigger wheel in a tighter 16cm2 "H2" flanged housing, my guess is for emissions purposes.
 
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How can you tell if a turbo needs parts machined during a rebuild? As in the rebuild kit will not help it much.
 
If the shaft is grooved, it needs replaced or machined smaller and undersized bearings used. If the journal bearings fit too loosely in the housing, the housing will need replaced or machined larger and oversized bearings used.

Many times when the journals in a housing wear out, you're better to just replace the housing. By the time you figure the cost of the machining and the cost of the oversized bearings, you can practically have a new housing. Some housings are cheap- for example, Garrett T3 center housings can be had for just $40-$50.
 
I've been working on designing a feed/scavenging system for one of my other projects involving a few MHI DSM turbos (14B and T25) and the only oil related information I've been able to find with consistency is relating to operating pressures..

Max hot pressure of 42-48psi
Minimum 7-10psi at idle or 15-18psi under load.

The most they seem to see from the head on an unmodified 4G63 is 35-40psi and the stock line has a built-in restrictor of around ~0.070"

Are those numbers accurate from what materials/experience you have?

What does the CHRA need in terms of oil flow? 2liters/min? More/less?

I have to feed 3 of these guys and want to make sure I pick the right pump.

They will be compounded. Eaching running a PR equivalent to their stock gate pressure while getting the system up and running.

But I intend to crank the boost on both primary and secondary stage.. would it be wise to run close to 40psi once I start to really lean on them?
 
Dear Justin, how are you ?

I will mount a EVOIII 16G with the BIG 16 Exhaust Housing Ported and WG hole Ported. I will use a 2G Ported Exhaust Manifold or a EVOIII ported Exhust Manifold also... All to match 7CM Gasket.

My question is about the O2 Housing (2G)... Should I also port it or it will make minimal difference ? Or do I need to get a EVOIII ?

Thanks !!!
 
I've been working on designing a feed/scavenging system for one of my other projects involving a few MHI DSM turbos (14B and T25) and the only oil related information I've been able to find with consistency is relating to operating pressures..

Max hot pressure of 42-48psi
Minimum 7-10psi at idle or 15-18psi under load.

The most they seem to see from the head on an unmodified 4G63 is 35-40psi and the stock line has a built-in restrictor of around ~0.070"

Are those numbers accurate from what materials/experience you have?

What does the CHRA need in terms of oil flow? 2liters/min? More/less?

I have to feed 3 of these guys and want to make sure I pick the right pump.

They will be compounded. Eaching running a PR equivalent to their stock gate pressure while getting the system up and running.

But I intend to crank the boost on both primary and secondary stage.. would it be wise to run close to 40psi once I start to really lean on them?
Those numbers are fine for OEM thrust hardware, but as soon as you switch to a thrust plate with an additional oiling hole it will effectively lower the cartridge pressure...so you'll need to use an oiling source with additional pressure to overcome this.

Oiling specs for MHI turbos will be attached below.

Dear Justin, how are you ?

I will mount a EVOIII 16G with the BIG 16 Exhaust Housing Ported and WG hole Ported. I will use a 2G Ported Exhaust Manifold or a EVOIII ported Exhust Manifold also... All to match 7CM Gasket.

My question is about the O2 Housing (2G)... Should I also port it or it will make minimal difference ? Or do I need to get a EVOIII ?

Thanks !!!
You can port your existing housing and it will work fine. There's no real demand for an Evo III o2 housing unless you're using an Evo III turbine housing as well.
 

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Did you price getting it serviced through PTE? May want to check before you scrap it.

Yes, if I could only explain the importance of having all turbos drain effectively....it would sure save people a bunch of money. Sometimes I wish they never made rubber drains.

i just read this and about shat myself... ive got an FP blue rubber drain tube... i dont see any possible way it could kink though... but now you got me a little scared

Every one I've ever seen was lube-oil only, no water provision on the center housing.

If it were water-cooled, stock fittings and lines would not work because the Garrett T3 center housing uses NPT fittings instead of 14mm banjo bolts.

(would also fit TD05H's) inside the largest of the 20G covers (3" inlet) would be a 25G or 60-1.

just wanted to let you know my scm6152 has 14mm banjo bolts and is water and oil cooled... but mine is the DBB version if that makes a difference. (quoted from page 1 post #29)
 
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Hey Jus, here's the pics bro. Now my guess is this - Standard TD05H 20G = 20G compressor wheel in a TD06 cover, 2-1/4" compressor inlet, mated to a TD05H turbine . I know you can identify better so here ya go, let me know if you need any other shots. Oh and I measured the banjo bolt with a cresent wrench and it still looks like 10mm so i don't bro. Oh the head bolt size is 14mm. Also if I'm running 18-22psi would it still be ok to run off head or should I switch to ofh with restrictor, if so what size and where to get. Thx bro
 

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Justin I am rebuilding a 16g and I have a few questions.

First is this an aftermarket 16g, and can you tell from the compressor cover who manufacters or sells it?

After dismantling this turbo, I immediatly noticed the compressor wheel has damage, or maybe because I'm still new at turbo rebuilds and checking parts and whatnot but if you could verify I would appreciate it :) It looks to me like something hit the wheel itself, that or someone modified it. The end nut shows signs of stripping and some damage. There was A LOT of in and out play and my friend told me that it was constantly smoking. I've found a lot of ol around the rubber gaskets :\
 

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Leon, Emusa is a eBay company bro. That means its a eBay 16g I wouldnt run it unless you like blowing turbos or possibly your motor. And as far as the compressor wheel looks like it was rubbing against the housing probably because of the shaft play.
 
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