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1G Pushing coolant

Posted by goonie, Dec 6, 2019

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  1. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    Hi there
    After replacing copper headgasket for a mls oem headgasket engine is stil pushing coolant
    This is one a new engine and new head mls torqued to 90ft/lbs
    Engine did not overheat before so i didnt resurfaced the head
    Because everything was new and the car didnt Drove much 10 Miles tops
    Any ideas?
    Thnx
    I attached a vid
     

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
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  2. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    This is probably just air burping out of the system, or your rpms are too high. Is the car on defrost when you did this?
     

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  3. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    Bummer- The surfaces must be perfect to achieve success with that gasket. Yours must not be.

    Bet if you swap it for an OEM composite you would be good
     

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  4. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    thats not a burp when i rev the engine it pushes the coolant out
    when car idles temp stays oke when driving the car it heats up
    exhaust gasses are heating up coolant
    what do you mean by defrost?
     

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  5. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    this was a fresh rebuilt new shortblock and new head
    want to run 30 plus psi would a composite do the job?
     

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    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
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  6. tk106

    tk106 Supporting Member

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    I didn't know which hg to used when I refreshed my head and the consensus was a composite hg since I was only having the head decked. Pretty sure you want both surfaces decked when using mls. Do a compression test. I've been on 28psi for about a week on composite hg. No issues with hg but dealing with other issues. I'll be pushing 30 w E85 when she's all back together.
     

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  7. Kai Hefner

    Kai Hefner Freelancer

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    That MLS on a non-resurfaced head/block is definitely not okay, could be your problem, but not too sure. I guess it would make sense if the compression is pushing on your cooling system.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019

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  8. Spdfreak

    Spdfreak Proven Member

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    Perform a cylinder leak down test. That will quickly determine if combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system.
     

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  9. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    yes my engine builder suggested to use a blocktester kit first
     

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  10. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    Nevermind, that doesn't apply to these engines. I was thinking in terms of circular cooling systems. Also, you didn't state that it was overheating at first, so I didn't know. My bad.
     

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  11. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    all day
     

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  12. kenuwine4g63

    kenuwine4g63 Proven Member

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    Most definitely get both head and block machined when running any gasket but composite. MLS, Cosmetic, felpro mls etc. Also what Arps are you using? New arps i torque down to 110pds/ft. Im not recommending it if you dont want to chance it.

    Besides all that, i use a felpro composite gasket(commercial store special $38) and have been at 40psi with a gtx3582 turbo. Seems your pushing a lot more than you should, may be time to tear her apart. .003 of warpage can cause sealing issues.
     
    kenuwine4g63

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  13. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    i used new L19 arp's torqued them to 90ft/lbs
    block was new head also never overheated did run only about 10 miles when i discovered temp was rising due to headgasket failure
    gonna do the blocktester fluid first to be sure
    and worse case re surface the head and put on new HG
    so you say felpro composite will do the job??
     

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  14. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    do you use the arp washers when you torgue them to that value
    or the insert washers?
    what do you suggest as torgue value for a mls oem HG ?
     

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  15. kenuwine4g63

    kenuwine4g63 Proven Member

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    Absolutely. Copper spray it as well. Well, at least i do.
     
    kenuwine4g63

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  16. kenuwine4g63

    kenuwine4g63 Proven Member

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    I use the regular washers. If you look at the torque spec without the arp lube you'll see its much higher than 90ft/lbs.

    I'll go custom age 625+ on my next set, they require a little or torque and ill leave them at what they call for.
     
    kenuwine4g63

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  17. streetraceboi

    streetraceboi Proven Member

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    Surface finish on the head for an MLS gasket will be different. IF you want to keep it simple, throw a composite gasket in. I hoped you check the head for true flatness as well while it was off.
     
  18. CJ512

    CJ512 Probationary Member

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    Mls head gaskets require a surface finish in the range of 0.7 to 1.2 micrometers RA (Roughness Average), which is (27 to 47 microinches RA) with no more than 0.2 to 0.6 micrometers of waviness. That's pretty specific and should be consulted with the machinist.
     

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  19. 3kidslater

    3kidslater Probationary Member

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    This may sounds elementary but check the hose to the overflow make sure it’s air tight from the housing to the overflow bottle
     

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  20. EVLGSX

    EVLGSX Proven Member

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    I would not copper spray it. You should not have to. This is another one of those things that many disagree on.

    One thing that is agreed on, is that the OEM Mitsu and the Felpro are equal in quality and performance. Only difference is the price.
     

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  21. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

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    Agreed, do not copper spray anything other than a copper gasket, the composite gasket is coated with graphite lube, that spray will not stick to it or do any good at all, it will just make a mess, mls gaskets are meant to move, again trying to glue those to the block and head defeats their purpose.
     

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  22. goonie

    goonie Proven Member

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    so probably the copperspray messed it up
    i remember seeing flakes of the copperspray floating in the coolant
    and what if i retorque the headstuds to 105ft/lbs ?could that make a difference
    or just trow in a composite gasket
    thats gonna be the third headgasket on an engine that barely drove 10 miles
     

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  23. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

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    Just throw in a composite gasket after a good cleaning including wiping both mating surfaces with acetone until the lint free cloth that you will use comes out clean, flipping the cloth each pass.
     

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  24. import solutions

    import solutions Proven Member

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    Put a 9627pt + arps + 2 /3 ugga duggas AND send it
     
  25. jed344

    jed344 Proven Member

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    Sounds like unless you want to have the head and block machined to spec you are looking at using a composite. That being said I have used them for years and never had one fail even at 30psi+ and 500hp+. Currently am using a OEM composite with L19's and a 0 ringed head and have zero worry's pushing it well past 30psi.
     

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  26. 2g2slow97

    2g2slow97 Previously Dwight highfield

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    I was faced with this problem early this year.
    Mine didn’t push at idle like that though, just under boost.
    It was also a MLS gasket, I removed the head inspected the gasket it was “fine”.
    Turns out I could fit .004 feeler gauge on the exhaust side. The car didn’t ever get hot before this either.
    So the it got resurfaced and It’s good now with a new MLS.
     

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