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Push Button Start (merged 11.07)

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It's funny how things come "back in style".

I wonder who at Honda had the idea "Hey! Let's go retro, and put a push-button start on it!"

Nothing wrong with it, just amusing to see.
 
Here is a link for an install in a 3rd gen RX-7. They used the factory $30 Honda piece out of an S2000. Maybe this will help out a little in figuring out how to go along with the install. This setup requires the key to be in the on position for the button to function, that way no one can get in and just push a button without the key. Pay attention to the later half where they recommend a 40 amp relay, don't want any fires to happen because someone didn't measure the current of the wires.
 
Yeah, stupid redir on the site is screwed. You can access it by going changing the www in front of every link, including the starting page, to people. :) Anyway, I haven't updated that damned site for a couple years, haha, and the car there actually isn't even the current car I drive, as I totaled the one on the site. What's funnier is that my current car looks identical to the one on the site, except that my new car is a real eclipse and has a black leather interior as opposed to grey...

wait, you didn't ask for my life story. Back to our regularly scheduled program...

As for what happened to using keys... well, I've found the push-starter to be very useful. I haven't gotten my car to idle perfectly with my hks cams and often I get the car to stall after a large rpm drop (like by letting off the gas at 5000 rpm). In traffic this is a big pain, especially if I have to lean forward and turn the key. Just reaching down and pushing the button is much easier, and safer since I'm not using the steering wheel to brace myself.

One caveat that I noticed though was that despite using pretty thick wiring (I can't remember the gauge any more... but I think 10 AWG), not as much current passes through the push-button ignition as the key ignition. How do I know this? When my battery was going bad, I found that some times I couldn't start the car with the button, but could with the key. The button would make the starter engage, but it would barely turn over the engine, where as the key easily allowed enough juice to the starter. Now whether this is a problem with the button's connections, the relay, or whatever, I'm not sure... just something you guys should keep in mind. Personally I don't care about that... it was a good indication my battery was failing anyway (which it did shortly after this started, haha).
 
That's my suspicion. The wiring used by the ignition is rather thick, and I think it might have been thicker than the wire I chose. The relay I have is a 30 amp relay, but is placed near the button, and thus I've got wiring from the column down to below the stereo and then back to the column. Ah well... while I don't care enough to fix it, you new guys make sure you do things right :)
 
Originally posted by TSiAWD666
That's my suspicion. The wiring used by the ignition is rather thick, and I think it might have been thicker than the wire I chose. The relay I have is a 30 amp relay, but is placed near the button, and thus I've got wiring from the column down to below the stereo and then back to the column. Ah well... while I don't care enough to fix it, you new guys make sure you do things right :)
Definately your problem, the whole point in using a relay is to have short wire lengths(of the high current wires)
 
so even after all that trouble to put a start button in u still have to turn the key to the on position and then start the car???? even with that down will the ignition still work as in stareting it with the key????

ryan:laser:
 
You can set the button to work either with or without the key. There are endless possibilities with electronics and all it takes is a little bit of thinking and you can do almost anything you can think of. The proper way, a la S2000, is to turn the key to the on position and then push the button. This keeps the same level as security as you had before. This way will NOT let you start the car with the key anymore, if you turn the key to START it will do nothing and just return to on. If you wish to not even use the key at all, find a 12V source for the push button that is always on regardless of the key's position. The only thing I see with that problem is that the car might not crank, just turn over because the FI is not getting a current. But I'm also in the middle of class right now and haven't set down and thought about it. I don't recommend this way because anyone can get in and drive off in your car. If you do the install the way I mentioned at the beginning (S2000) and use the step-by-step install that I linked to above as a guideline, all you are doing is transferring the function of sending power to the starter from the START position of the key switch to the push button.
 
In the most common installation of push-button starters the key is still required to be in the ON position, yes. However, you could install things so this wasn't a requirement if you wanted. As someone else described you could add all sorts of other security mechanisms in lieu of a key, like random switches placed throughout the car, a keypad, or even the holy grail of RFID fobs in your pocket (Got...ta....have it....). It's up to you.

Btw, I thought the key requirement was a real annoyance but I look at the buttom as a gimmick rather than being really useful, hehe. I still giggle like a girl when I can push the button to start the car though.
 
Originally posted by GSTinMS
You can set the button to work either with or without the key. There are endless possibilities with electronics and all it takes is a little bit of thinking and you can do almost anything you can think of. The proper way, a la S2000, is to turn the key to the on position and then push the button. This keeps the same level as security as you had before. This way will NOT let you start the car with the key anymore, if you turn the key to START it will do nothing and just return to on. If you wish to not even use the key at all, find a 12V source for the push button that is always on regardless of the key's position. The only thing I see with that problem is that the car might not crank, just turn over because the FI is not getting a current. But I'm also in the middle of class right now and haven't set down and thought about it. I don't recommend this way because anyone can get in and drive off in your car. If you do the install the way I mentioned at the beginning (S2000) and use the step-by-step install that I linked to above as a guideline, all you are doing is transferring the function of sending power to the starter from the START position of the key switch to the push button.

Whether the button had constant or ignition power, your vehicle still would not start unless the ignition wire is powered up also.You definately COULD still start your car with the key, unless you wired it specifically not to.
 
Originally posted by TSiAWD666
If you say so. I don't like operating buttons with 30amps running behind them, so for me this WAS a reason for using a relay.
What? you lost me. I guess you could say you are isolating the button, but thats not how I meant it.Isolating usually means you are keeping circuits separate.
 
ok i started this post a long time ago and i dunno if anyone else noticed but it kind of got way off course from it's initial intent. anyways could somebody who has done this mod themselves please go through step by step as to which wires i need to cut or splice into to get a switch for the ignition and a switch for the engine power. and then further go into how to go about hooking up the push button for my car. this is a last ditched effort to do this mod myself before i actually go and pay someone else to do it. i would really like to do this myself and save the $100 and i know there are people who have done the mod. Exactly what do i need to do to get the switches to work properly and which wires do i need to splice into. where do i need to add the fuse and what do i need to do to get the push button to work properly. thank you.
 
Egad. If you've not noodled this out in the space of a month, it's probably to your benefit to shell out the $100. All the button has to do is complete the circuit that the key switch does when you turn it to the "start" position. You'll need wire, a test lamp, and a wiring diagram from Chilton's, Haynes, or the factory manual. It's just not that complicated.
 
While I don't have the URL handy, prior to my install while I was bored I searched a bit on google and found a 2gNT install guide. I'm sure it's linnked somewhere on an NT site but I just don't pay attention to those hehe. I believe the wire colors for the NT ignition were identical (if not the entire unit). See if you can find this... should be enough for you to get through the install. As Defiant said, it is a relatively simple install so don't worry so much. Just make sure your battery is disconnected... don't need to hear about you frying yourself on those ignition lines.
 
Originally posted by TSiAWD666
If you say so. I don't like operating buttons with 30amps running behind them, so for me this WAS a reason for using a relay.

Huh?

Yeah, those DC amps REALLY shock you. :rolleyes:

Watch out when picking up batteries too. If you touch one of the posts, that's a whopping 600+ amps.
 
Ok, looking for a push button to fit IN THE LIGHTER SPACE... all the ones I've seen will need modified, any that will fit in the 2g lighter space?
 
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