Push Button Start (merged 11.07)

[96gstdsm]

I have an S2000 which has the push button start stock. Would be much nicer if you did not also need the key to start it. I believe some of the new Nissan's have the push button start but it only senses the key so you do not need to insert it into the ignition.
Feels kinda cool I guess to push a button and it start however. I would not do it if it did not come stock in the S2000.

 

[SRiz]

sorry to keep bringing up this thread, but I have three questions.

1) Does "high amp button" mean more then 30A or what kinda amp is ideal for this?

2)Also all the wires you have to tap in for (except for the ebrake one) is a part of that plug that goes into the ignition switch on the steering wheel. Is this true?

3)Do I really need the SPDT relay can I used the SPST this are soo much easier to find. Why do I need double throw shouldnt single be good enough for this situation. Im assuming that the Single Pole Double Throw relay is used when you want to start your car for compression test???

 

[laserspeeddemon]

1)Just get an S2000 button. They are all over ebay, and used ones are cheap.
2)Depends, You could get it from anywhere. I tapped my ignition wiring harness for the constant 12v feed and I used the fuse box for a ACC feed; meaning I used an empty slot that was 12v when the ignition was in ACC and 0v when the switch was in the OFF postion.

 

[SRiz]

Ok i hooked everything up and it worked perfect. I don't know why, but I don't think its not getting enough power. When I press the button my starter clicks. When I use the key the starter starts right up. Do I need to use a better ground maybe, I used assaults way of hooking the ground to the e-brake for safety. The solinoid is clicking with the button, but not sending enough power to the starter.

 

[Gamble97]

Anyway to hook up a push start button w/o the key being in there? Like the way new cars are where you can just keep the fob in my pocket or something.
Ignited Illuminated <br>Engine Start Push Button - INTERIOR ACCESSORIES
This place sells push start buttons that mount in the cig lighter hole.
How about some pics?

And will the car start with the key or the push button or only the button?

 

[Defiant]

And will the car start with the key or the push button or only the button?

It'll work whatever way you wire it up. Make your choice and go for it.

 

[Ajax]

Since this thread is back up I have a question. I have the ignited one installed for awhile but it hasn't been working for some time(It did at one point). Here's the issue. It lights up, so it does get power. It also brings my voltage down when I push the button, but it does not turn my car over. Although it does engage my starter if I push it once the car is running?? What could the problem be?Should I install the relay?

 

[Ajax]

No ideas yet?

 

[LouD]

I agree that a push start is kinda pointless because you still need the key to start the car. but i installed one on my 94 because when i went to use the key sometimes the car wouldnt start. I check everything in the ignition sysem, relays, fuses, everything and found nothing wrong but sometimes the car just wouldnt start. so i ran a wire to the starter and battery and back to a 30amp button to manually start the starter and in turn start the car. it solved my problem and its hidden so its extrra security. cant start the car unless u know where the button is.

 

[Ravewolf]

A push button start is ok, but I like the idea of the transporter keypad. Has anyone followed up on that? Or the magnetic transistor thing? Wow that would be awesome .

 

[omnixero]

I bought my 96 2G and it had one wired up already, I dont really like it, but honestly the mess of wires under the drivers side dash makes me fear trying to remove it. so all i did was go from a normal 3 position flip switch to one of the S2000 'engine start' buttons, much cleaner look.

 

[Golden-Boy]

Push button and a special key would be nice

 

[sadc]

So im confused on this diagram. On the 30 post part of the relay, am I just getting another 12V source? I know on the switch it self I have to get a independent source. But what about the 30 post from the relay? And for the 87 post from the relay. That says its going to the starter. Can I just make that go to the starter wire? under the steering wheel?

and still trying to figure out what kind of relay would i need

 

[PXHero]

I would personally put my +12 on pin 87, not 30. Either way will work fine, but if you switch the 87 and 30 wiring then you won't have to cover 87a... as it sits now in the diagram, 87a is uncovered and showing +12 volts, slight risk of grounding out, blowing fuses, and/or burning down your car (not likely, but better safe than sorry...)

That being said, I'm going to assume that you are still using the key to power up the ignition and accessories, so splice into your ignition wire and connect that to 87. Then cut your starter wire, and crimp cap (please, not wire nuts, they're evil in cars) the key side of the cut and connect the starter side to 30.

Hope that helps and was not too confusing...

 

[Rogan]

here's what I believe him to be talking about.

Reason for this one, over the original picture is:

When the relay is not 'triggered', whatever signal is on p30, rests on p87a. When the relay is triggered, or activated, the connection between 87a and 30 is broken, and a new connection, or path is made between 87 and 30.

so, with the relay at rest, and 12v sitting on 30, 12v will then be present on 87a, as well (due to internal construction of the SPST relay.)
Essentially, reversing 87 and 30's connections, to eliminate the issue of having 87a sitting, exposed, with 12v on it's terminal.

In addition, I'd use a Bosch 30A SPST relay. If you're just using 12v IGN to feed your push-button, and want to catch the starter wire at the steering column, you can do that, with my attached wiring diagram. You can most certainly use yours, too, but my diagram is the 'safest'. Ensure you use fuses. a 5-7a fuse is plenty sufficient on the '85' side, as it only takes 12v, 500mA to trip the relay. I'd use no bigger than a 10a on the '30' terminal side, as the steering column wire usually feeds a starter relay, somewhere further down the line, anyway.

85/86 are reversable, as well.. ground and power can be swapped between those two terminals, and the relay still functions as it should.



Attached is my revised mspaint..

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Any farm/tractor supply place should have the relay for cheap if you can't find it somewhere else. I grabbed two of them for $3 a piece when I did my fuel pump rewire a month ago.

 

[sadc]

Would it be better for me to go straight to the starter solenoid or the start wire that triggers the solenoid? Im still having starter issues. My voltage drops down to 8.7-8.9 when cranking. If I go right to the solenoid will it crank better with a higher voltage?

 

[My1GLaser]

Adv auto-horn button 4$

10ga Wire from battery to horn button. (15amp inline fuse)
10ga Wire from horn button to starter solenoid.
Turn key to "On." Press horn button.

Mine has been like this for a 1 year and a half b/c I haven't had a chance to trace down the wiring problem in the anti-theft.

 

[PXHero]

I wouldn't go straight to the solenoid. It's more trouble than it's worth, and it won't help you get the current you are asking for. If you're voltage is dropping below 10.5 on start your battery is bad and needs replaced...

 

[PXHero]

You should have 12.66v in a perfect world before you start your car, and your battery voltage should drop no lower than 10.5v when cranking...

Typical voltage is anywhere from 12.1-12.6 volts before crank, and somewhere between 10.5-11.5 volts when crank... It depends a lot on the battery, and what the load is on it while cranking...

 

[Rogan]

Exactly... and even a prettier picture than what I drew in MS Paint...

That's about the only thing I use mspaint for - to draw diagrams

You should have 12.66v in a perfect world before you start your car, and your battery voltage should drop no lower than 10.5v when cranking...

Typical voltage is anywhere from 12.1-12.6 volts before crank, and somewhere between 10.5-11.5 volts when crank... It depends a lot on the battery, and what the load is on it while cranking...

I checked this out last night, and the one I was working on, was 12.11v before cranking, and 11.09v during cranking.
where are you measuring the voltage drop that you see, sadc?


And the only thing the starter wire does, it trip a starter solenoid. using the relay setup drawn above will not make the car start easier.. there's 2 main wires on a starter: 12V from battery/alternator, and the solenoid trigger wire.
If your car is cranking slow, it's not the starter solenoid wire. I'd check the engine's main ground strap(s), and the 12V Const. cable to the starter.

 

[Jeff99GS]

I would Tap the output (30) of your relay into the BLACK and RED starter wire under the steering column. It is in the Ignition switch harness. The wire is in a black plastic loom that you will need to carefully cut open with a blade. Once its open, find the fat BLACK wire with a RED tracer (line) on it.

Now take a test light and test the wire while cranking the starter to confirm that you have the starter wire.

Here is another drawing...I know you already have a few but I was bored.

Pin 87 and pin 30 Must have 12 gauge wire running to them or else they can get hot and possibly cause a fire. Also remember to uses a fuse on that 12v + lead going to 87. I would use a 30 amp fuse.

EDIT* Okay I fixed it. Thanks for noticing!

 

[Rogan]

the only drawback to yours, is that the button can be pushed, and engine 'cranked', even with the key off. It won't start, obviously, but can be cranked..

Otherwise, nice!

 

[Jeff99GS]

Haha yeah thats true...Hey its early. I had my old eclipse sort of like that. I hooked a Card Reader switch and relay to the main power wire (30) and the vehicles Ignition wire. So when I got in the car I would slip the card in the slot to turn on ignition and power to the push button switch. Then you hit the start button and it would fire up. Pull the card out and it shuts down and kills power to the switch.

It would be cool to use a thumb print switch!

 

[My1GLaser]

the only drawback to yours, is that the button can be pushed, and engine 'cranked', even with the key off. It won't start, obviously, but can be cranked..

But that's perfect for a compression test, and rotating the engine to get the valves out of overlap when doing a BLT. I use mine for that all the time.

Every once in a while I forget to turn the key to "on" before I hit the button and my heart drops for a second cause the car doesn't start.