The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Project 9's No compromise !!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Reall why is that? That is the first I ever heard of that? If it's true it's a good thing because it will mean I don't have to wait and save up to buy a fludampner before getting everything balanced.

Edit: Yeah your right carver I just read this on the site

Damper Facts:
1.) Most stock dampers are actually tuned absorbers and do not work when the the engine is modified from the original set-up.
2.) The damper is not a balancer. It's job is to control torsional vibrations.
3.) The silicone inside a Fluidampr will not expire and is not effected by temperature change.
4.) An externally balanced assembly should be balanced with only the counterweight or stock damper installed.

Gotta watch those little things, they will bite you in the ass. HARD! Just watching you ass. I wanna see this thing run. :thumb:
 

Yeah yeah LOL. I will be there soon enough. My goal and build is a lot different than the average bear. Even with all things good and dandy I'm still a test dummy for how high a hx52 can really be pushed and from what I heard from tim zimmer who was around when Jake (topstreet) was tuning his car this IM is a handful. Steve;s buddy made like 550whp or something in that ball park but other than that I didn't see any 2.0 guys really pushing this bad boy yet.
 
I have a 1/4 mile goal(which actually from looking at everything is underestmating the setup) of 9.5 or close to 150mph. HP wise even though I will only go to apease my curiosity I will be happy with anything over 700whp. I don't know the real world limit of this turbo but I think it will take about 40-45psi to reach my 1/4 time without spray.
 
You could likely reach your goal (9.99sec) with about 650whp. I think your car is fairly gutted. If race weight is in the 2700lb range with driver, I think it coud be definately possible with enough seat time to really know the car.
 
You could likely reach your goal (9.99sec) with about 650whp. I think your car is fairly gutted. If race weight is in the 2700lb range with driver, I think it coud be definately possible with enough seat time to really know the car.

9.999 isn't fast enough that's a 10 sec car that ran quicker than usual I want a solid mid 9 sec car.
 
Yeah yeah LOL. I will be there soon enough. My goal and build is a lot different than the average bear. Even with all things good and dandy I'm still a test dummy for how high a hx52 can really be pushed and from what I heard from tim zimmer who was around when Jake (topstreet) was tuning his car this IM is a handful. Steve;s buddy made like 550whp or something in that ball park but other than that I didn't see any 2.0 guys really pushing this bad boy yet.

Not to bust on you but why on a 9 second build with NO compromises run something unproven??? I understand doing something others haven't but still. I would have gone a PROVEN Turbo.

It's going to take plenty of seat time to get used to the setup and dial it in. Build looks good. I like some of the stuff your doing. I'm getting closer every trip to the track of my goal of a 9 sec street car. But it takes time.

I wish you luck and hope you do it! I can tell you my first trip to the track was semi dissappointing to me when I ran 11.7... I chnaged the tune and spent HOURS dialing it in and then it went 11.2@130 with a JUNK 2.0 60'

Last week I went to the track and had ignition issues and got the car down to 10.63 letting off. So it's getting closer. Next trip I'll go a full pass and keep turning it up and see where it goes. I can't tell you the number of headaches I have had with this car But it's getting closer.

Once again good luck I hope you do it!!!:rocks:

PS my wife would kill me if I put ANY car parts in the house let alone a living room or kitchen. LOL
 
Not to bust on you but why on a 9 second build with NO compromises run something unproven??? I understand doing something others haven't but still. I would have gone a PROVEN Turbo.

It's going to take plenty of seat time to get used to the setup and dial it in. Build looks good. I like some of the stuff your doing. I'm getting closer every trip to the track of my goal of a 9 sec street car. But it takes time.

I wish you luck and hope you do it! I can tell you my first trip to the track was semi dissappointing to me when I ran 11.7... I chnaged the tune and spent HOURS dialing it in and then it went 11.2@130 with a JUNK 2.0 60'

Last week I went to the track and had ignition issues and got the car down to 10.63 letting off. So it's getting closer. Next trip I'll go a full pass and keep turning it up and see where it goes. I can't tell you the number of headaches I have had with this car But it's getting closer.

Once again good luck I hope you do it!!!:rocks:


PS my wife would kill me if I put ANY car parts in the house let alone a living room or kitchen. LOL

Some people like to be different, and set out to make something proven. Alot of Big guns do that, why cant he? You never know till you try thats how you got to look at it.

Im a perfect example. 2.4/gt4294 street car. Felpro composite non o-ringed anything. 29psi on pump gas, no meth/water injection. I know the cars close to the mid up 130s now on the map I have. Tuned it myself. I had alot of people telling me to go get it tuned, but Im not stupid, and would rather blow 5 motors up then not learn something.

The only reason I have a felpro is because the motor was together when I went from my old turbo setup to the new one.

I did the same thing my first time out. My laptop crashed, and I forgot to set the logging parameters in aem, so my first roll out pass was useless, but still went 12.3@127 2.265 60, second time ready to rock. Tryed to launch it but it bogged since I didnt rev it high enough, 11.72@130 2.068 60. Not bad for my tune on pump 25psi.

Its all about taking the road less traveled.
 
I completely understand the "Road less traveled" theroy BUT on something your saying "NO COMPROMISE" I can't see a reason NOT to use something that HAS been done before... Maybe it's just me...
Again Good Luck I hope you do it. There are some very nice parts here and I would hate to see a part out on this. I will be VERY disappointed
 
I hear you and to a point your right but in the beginning I said I would not compromise but I also said that doesn't mean buying the most badass parts on earth throwing them together and going BAM 9's. One it's not that easy anyway and two I wouldn't feel like I really accomplished anything doing it that way. WHile the HX52 isn't a true proven turbo it is no slouch. It is built by a EXTREMELY good company based on durability flow maps showing 86+lbs/min in regular version which I have the pro, and on top of that I don't know if I should even bring this out but I think FP is using the wheels from Holset in their T04zHTA turbo or HTA88r whichever. I have talked to people that have measured these down to the "T" and the wheels are indentical. SOOO knowing that this turbo is actually already proven just not in HOLSET form. There was a time when garret was the only way to go and if everyone would have said lets not rock the boat then borg warner turbos, which believe me I will pick up if the holset just doesn't have the gonads, would have never caught on in the dsm world. Again though I see your point and apreciate the good words and good luck wishes but I think that both I and everyone else will be impressed with this turbo ;)
 
Someone PM'd me and wanted to know the number to the Oil strainer gasket but I deleted the PM so here it is for him and anyone else that wants to know

MD183240
 
Got the other fitting I was missing for the turbo oil return -10an. I am selling off all my blue an fittings and line because I"m going all black and silver with the engine bay.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I need a new small parts supplier the company I have been using lately is killing me. They make me feel like I'm bothering them because I don't order $2000 parts even though I will be buying my aluminum rods and other stuff very soon and I just ordered my main/rod ACL race bearing kit from a company on ebay that was selling both for 88 shipped. The company I have been dealing with wanted 70 just for the mains. I call to add stuff to a order that was placed 15 minutes earlier and that stuff never gets shipped. Needles to say this getting old but that's enough about that.

I will be going out to the local BBQ meet in PA this sat and I will bring a few things that I have laying around for people to check out like I know a lot of people ask me about stuff like the HX52 and the ITB SMIM so I'm gonna bring them so people can get a better look at what stuff really looks like.
 
Got the other fitting I was missing for the turbo oil return -10an. I am selling off all my blue an fittings and line because I"m going all black and silver with the engine bay.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I hate mitsu design as far as botling the oil return fitting to the pan...Im welding mine to the pan, i was kinda thinking that you would be doing the same...
-wes
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I hate mitsu design as far as botling the oil return fitting to the pan...Im welding mine to the pan, i was kinda thinking that you would be doing the same...
-wes

I never had any problems with the stock style of mounting it with -10an returns. I don't want to reinvent the wheel with a oil return setup. As long it doesn't leak -10an with a bolt up style is cool.
 
Yea same here...

Welding a fitting takes alot of stress out and removes a common oil leak ;)

Plus its not very costy $10 for bung $20-$30 for someone to weld it

I hear ya it's not expensive but one I don't weld and two I don't like asking for favors on small stuff because you never know when you will need something big. I have used this same setup before and never leaked before.
 
I'm surprised to see you using a bolt on flange too. I picked up a n/t pan for 30 bucks, weld on bung for 8, and tig welded it myself. I've always fought little pesky leaks there.
 
I guess this bothered people so much that I had a local guy say he would weld it in for pretty much free and the fitting cost 10 bucs so I will just bring this to the meet this sat see if anyone wants it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top