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Practice Header Fabrication Materials

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gijoe985

15+ Year Contributor
562
20
Dec 13, 2007
Grandview, Washington
If I wanted to take an attempt of making a tubular exhaust header, what would be a good material to practice on? Namely, I'd like to get the bends and cuts down before I start using 304 or whatnot.

Secondly, would there be a cheaper material that could be ceramic coated so that it would actually be functional? I guess I am just figuring if I want to use mild steel, but don't want to just scrap it when I'm done, maybe run it to see how it performs, as a prototype, but then move onto SS when I know it's good. Either way, just a thought. I figure I could make a couple from MS and see which design worked better, then move on to SS for the final product.

Let me know if I'm talking crazy talk...:thumb:
 
Go to Mcmastercar.com and look up some "weld el's" they are weldable steam fittings that come in the same diameters as what's used on SS headers. And they come in all the same bends and angles so you can fashion a header from them then make a jig from the one you build so that you're ready and know wxactly what to do with your stainless pieces when you get em. These fittings are even good enough to use like that and go boosting or you can make a jig using it. I would build one from those, test it, make any changes you might want to make, then once your jig is made..make one more from weld el's and this will make sure the jig is right without wasint some SS pieces.

I've made a log header from these and it's still running today 5 years later. And these are also what i use to make my mock ups for header designs, they are flat out cheap and you can build a header from them for udner 100 bucks and have elft overs even if you make a ram horn, equal length top mount LOL

Here's a link to the page i learned this on, some of their techniques i like, some are rather questionable in their tech section, but this was good info IMO
Tech Page <---- I love the picture of the material on the last part of the page where it says "Note extensive heat shield to protect master cylinder and brake lines made from aluminum backed Felramic 2000 " Sar part is all i can see is a chunk of cardboard in the engine bay LOL (i could be wrong but that's what it looks like )
 
Go to Mcmastercar.com and look up some "weld el's" they are weldable steam fittings that come in the same diameters as what's used on SS headers. And they come in all the same bends and angles so you can fashion a header from them then make a jig from the one you build so that you're ready and know wxactly what to do with your stainless pieces when you get em. These fittings are even good enough to use like that and go boosting or you can make a jig using it. I would build one from those, test it, make any changes you might want to make, then once your jig is made..make one more from weld el's and this will make sure the jig is right without wasint some SS pieces.

I've made a log header from these and it's still running today 5 years later. And these are also what i use to make my mock ups for header designs, they are flat out cheap and you can build a header from them for udner 100 bucks and have elft overs even if you make a ram horn, equal length top mount LOL

Here's a link to the page i learned this on, some of their techniques i like, some are rather questionable in their tech section, but this was good info IMO
Tech Page <---- I love the picture of the material on the last part of the page where it says "Note extensive heat shield to protect master cylinder and brake lines made from aluminum backed Felramic 2000 " Sar part is all i can see is a chunk of cardboard in the engine bay LOL (i could be wrong but that's what it looks like )


Mcmastercar.com those are pricy they go from $ 15 and up WTF you can just build a real header for that price...right ??
 
I buy all my sch10 weld els from ace stainless. Great guys and prices are good. I actually just ordered some for a 65 mustang turbo manifold I'm working on. Weld els are probably the cheapest way to make a manifold. If you are planning on making the collector as well I suggest making the jig and than practicing on pvc pipe till you get the cuts right. It's much cheaper and you can get it at home depot.
 
Mcmastercar.com those are pricy they go from $ 15 and up WTF you can just build a real header for that price...right ??

Man, they were only a few bucks a pop last time i ordered some... *scratches head* I will have to go look and see if it's the same ones i buy for that price, if so i'm going to practice on SS from now on LOL
 
Practice makes perfect when it comes to welding, especially on manifolds. Im about to start making myself a nice manifold once I get the flanges made.. Im lazy.
 
From what I remember ss weld els are cheaper than mild steel ones. It's been forever since I have priced both out since I only order the ss ones.
 
If I wanted to take an attempt of making a tubular exhaust header, what would be a good material to practice on? Namely, I'd like to get the bends and cuts down before I start using 304 or whatnot.

Secondly, would there be a cheaper material that could be ceramic coated so that it would actually be functional? I guess I am just figuring if I want to use mild steel, but don't want to just scrap it when I'm done, maybe run it to see how it performs, as a prototype, but then move onto SS when I know it's good. Either way, just a thought. I figure I could make a couple from MS and see which design worked better, then move on to SS for the final product.

Let me know if I'm talking crazy talk...:thumb:
Are you going to fab your own exh mani gijoe985 ?
It is time consuming, but if you have patience it's do-able.
If you want a breakdown of this mani I made, I have several pics in stages.
Runners exit independantly & the exh housing funnel is the collector.
All schedual 10 SS bends 1/8 wall thicknes.
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Cheers !
 

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Are you going to fab your own exh mani gijoe985 ?
It is time consuming, but if you have patience it's do-able.
If you want a breakdown of this mani I made, I have several pics in stages.
Runners exit independantly & the exh housing funnel is the collector.
All schedual 10 SS bends 1/8 wall thicknes.
Cheers !

Wow, the header looks really good. Post up some more pics/ steps!
 
Ok here is a breakdown of making a turbo exh mani to fit as std.
I used a POS ex SS autochrome exh mani header flange (was free)
My header flange ports are milled 1/4" larger than the head.
The schedual 10 304# SS bends have 1/8" thick walls.
The bends petrude inside the flange ports & are welded in/out.
This makes my inside measurements 1/8" larger than the ports.
*Note* The reason for being larger is to lessen dirty gasses
going back into the head. Notice your std mani & gasket is also.
Sorry, no pic of the mani in the jig. I tossed it out.
Weld a 2" sq tube to a bench & drill holes to bolt the header to.
Bolt your std exh mani to this & weld a plate/ramp to the bench
to match your turbo flange. Remove the std mani & have a beer !
Ok with the bends & straight pipe, you have a jigsaw to make.
This pic shows my 4 sections. Note the bends are crushed in a
vice to suit the ports & pre welded. You must weld them now !
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Here is the merging welded. Note the header is only tacked.
A lot of twisting will happen during the welding, so the
header flange tacks gets broken off at this stage & the mani
goes back into the jig to realign the header flange again.
When realigning the header, place 1/16" packing at the ends.
It must have this bow with the middle having no packing.
Believe me, after fully welding the flange, it will pull in.
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Here is the header fully weld inside & out. The color shows
you how much heat the mani copped.
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In this pic you'll see the four walls I welded in there to
make all the runners stay as individuals to fire like a
rattle gun (in the firing order 1,3,4,2) Note the 'X' inside
on runner 3. Runner 4 flows on the side of 3.
Both flanges are machine faced in this pic.
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I had the mani industrial bead blasted before the ceramic
was added. It is still black & not peeling off after 20k.
The early spool made by this, leaves a cast mani for dead.
Cheers !
 

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Hi Bud.
I was browsing around & saw gijoe was asking about pipe work,
so I thought I'd just offer to show him if he wanted.
I supose I could've made a techo. Oh well, some might see this.
Cheers !
 
I was going to attempt one last year while the equipment was available to me but never got around to it..
It would be nice to have an article written up so that it could spark some intrest...There is alot of things still needed in tech articles, but who remembers "ohh I should write an article about this".. And then when you do remember the article is already there.. But cost is a big part in owning a dsm, especially if you can fab it for cheaper.. Idk I also love stuff like this so it's exciting to talk about..
 
Yeah I know what you mean. It is good to have particular mods that you
can get tips from. Even if you can't make them yourself. Some people
have mates that they can count on to fab things for them. I've been in
the metal trade for yonks & when you want something done right, ya do
it yaself. A machinist mate of mine helps me out with any lathe work &
when he needs sheet metal or structual, he calls on me. He is turning up
a 2½" one way valve for me atm for my Lancer project. Mates rates !
Cheers !
 
Car revs quicker from idle, spools easy 500rpm earlier than the
pos enhanced Evo cast one on my dd now. I took it off my dd to
ad to the pile of goodies meant for my Lancer project.
I know exh manis that have longer equal length runers get a move
on for the drags. They suit later cams & come on song together.
7.5k gear changes in an auto doesn't need a late working exh mani.
gijoe I hope you like the tube mani added to YOUR thread for you.
Cheers !
 
^^

1.) Love the mani, Nice Job! and excellent craftsmanship!

2.) I have to agree with your theory about equal length vs. short/direct built headers. I always seem to see better spool from log style and nice short runner headers like yours than i do from big ram horn, top mount and equal length designs.

I'm about to build some mani's as soon as i recover from this divorce financially ( i couldn't charge a coke right now LOL ) And WHEN i finally do get to build my intake and exh mani's i'll post build threads on them. Even though the divorce is my choice from the first mention of it, this is still one of the hardest things to get apst (not so much emotionally, but when you've split, bills, food, cars, house and all with some one for 8 years, it's HARD going back to a bachelor... But As long as I can keep selling a decent amount of my services locally and on the net i really want to get in the manifold game ASAP!

But hell, since this all started i haven't even had the 400 extra bucks for the turbo i want :( (some one shoot me)
 
Ace Stainless for all of the Pipes. They have a great price on them. I would buy 12 of them and start there along with a few feet of the straight. As far as SCH 10 or 40, I did mine in SCH 40 and that stuff is very thick and heavy duty. If you are really good at welding I would go with SCH 10 and call it good. The SCH 40 is a lot harder to work with.

Ace Stainless
12-15 -- 1-1/2" sch10 90° elbow 304/304L [5.05 ea]
3-4ft -- 1-1/2" sch10 welded pipe 304L [8.16 per foot]

AMS Motorsports
1x -- AMS Cast 4G63 Exhaust Head Flange [89.99]
1x -- AMS Cast T3 Collector Flange [139.95]


Links
Ace Stainless
Ace Stainless
AMS Cast 4G63 Exhaust Head Flange - Amsperformance.com
AMS Cast T3 Collector Flange - Amsperformance.com


Here is a pic of my manifold so far.
DSC00456.JPG- Photo

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Trace the header and collector flanges, and next time buy 3/8 or 1/2 inch plates and have a shop cut them out for you..It will save you over a hundred bucks next time..If you want to save you next time you want to build a manifold for yourself or a buddy..
 
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