2G Outlander brake problem.

[goldeninja20]

I got everything for my outlander brake swap. I got calipers, and brackets from 2006 mitsubishi outlander. I then ordered the rotors and pads brand new. Got everything in today. I put the rotor on, the i put the caliper brackets on and when i got them tight, they are touching the rotor not allowing me to even turn the rotor (caliper isnt on yet). Do i need washers between caliper bracket and hub? Am i missing something? I need info asap. Thanks. Going from single piston (gst) straight to these brakes.

 

[Agent Ezzard]

Where did you get the brackets from? Everything should together with no problem additional parts. Did you get them from the dealer because that's where I bought mine.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Need picture.

 

[goldeninja20]

Where did you get the brackets from? Everything should together with no problem additional parts. Did you get them from the dealer because that's where I bought mine.

I apologize for kind of wasting everybodies time. I went back out and took another look at them. I was like screw it im using the impact and putting the lug nuts on to make sure the rotor was tight. Aparently using the ratchet wasnt enough. Now fits perfect. Thanks everyone.

I actually drove 1 hour 20 min to a "local" () junkyard because they had a 2006 outlander. I only paid 70 for both calipers and both brackets!

 

[JosephSMendez]

I would go with washers every time but that is my opinion. That is of course if you have them or not.

 

[mitsubishikid]

Bringing this back from the dead, for the next guy that might have this issue.

Today I decided to figure out why this is a thing and it turns out the inside of the "05 - "06 Outlander rotor sits vary tight on the outer circumference of the hub. I at first thought it was because my car is a 1g then I checked this thread out and it was observed on a 2g so this problem can happen on both cars. I then used the lug nut method mentioned here to tighten the rotor flush with the hub, I will add that there are threaded removal holes on the stock Outlander rotor, and I recommend you do as I did, and use them to gauge when the rotor is flush to the hub.

It must be absolutely flat to the face of the hub for the brackets to have proper fitment and rotor clearance otherwise the outer portion of the brackets will scrub on the rotor the opposite will happen if you try to stack washers or use spacers and you shouldn't have to use spacers if the rotors are on the hub flat.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Bringing this back from the dead, for the next guy that might have this issue.

Today I decided to figure out why this is a thing and it turns out the inside of the "05 - "06 Outlander rotor sits vary tight on the outer circumference of the hub. I at first thought it was because my car is a 1g then I checked this thread out and it was observed on a 2g so this problem can happen on both cars. I then used the lug nut method mentioned here to tighten the rotor flush with the hub, I will add that there are threaded removal holes on the stock Outlander rotor, and I recommend you do as I did, and use them to gauge when the rotor is flush to the hub.

It must be absolutely flat to the face of the hub for the brackets to have proper fitment and rotor clearance otherwise the outer portion of the brackets will scrub on the rotor the opposite will happen if you try to stack washers or use spacers and you shouldn't have to use spacers if the rotors are on the hub flat.

Might be a good idea to sand the outside of the hub or inside of the rotor to gain just a little more wiggle room in that case.

 

[Dericsh]

Might be a good idea to sand the outside of the hub or inside of the rotor to gain just a little more wiggle room in that case.

I was wondering this too. Is there a buildup of rust and dirt on either end preventing the rotor from sitting flush with the hub?

 

[mitsubishikid]

I was wondering this too. Is there a buildup of rust and dirt on either end preventing the rotor from sitting flush with the hub?

Might be a good idea to sand the outside of the hub or inside of the rotor to gain just a little more wiggle room in that case.

My 1g hubs are as mint an example as you would find on a 30 something year old car, and being specifically on a California car. It could be because i used resurfaced oem outlander rotors (also from a CA car) not rusted, and it could be possible that aftermarket rotors are made with more clearance which might explain why only 3 guys have had this issue , but in any case i do agree with maybe sand and clean up the outer circumference if it needs it.