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ECMlink Need help with WOT (LEAN)

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supomglol

Probationary Member
26
0
Nov 4, 2011
renton, Washington
Backstory;

So about 2 months ago, I was driving home from my girlfriends house, when my car seemed to stop responding to throttle (Slightly, when over 50+%~), and kinda sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders. So I drove home carefully that night, woke up in the morning, drove to the store and got new spark plugs, replaced them, then got on the road. When I was on the freeway, mind you still not going over 50% throttle, I managed to get about 65 mph, and held it for about 10 minutes, when she stopped responding at all... pulled over, waited like 10 minutes, looking for anything wrong or off under the hood... went to start her up and she kept moving to my surprise. So now, I turned around taking back roads home till she eventually died on a hill. Got towed home, where then she would die everytime the clutch was released, but would idle great!(The car would respond really rough to more then 30% of the throttle, and not pass about 5k rpms in neutral) So I brought out my laptop, hooked up to the ecmlink, where nothing seemed out of the ordinary. All the tuning and fuel adjustments were still there. I had a few DTCS, a tps readinig, and a knock sensor issue. I had the sensors replaced, but the tune was still acting really weird and dying when the clutch was released. So I reset the tune, where I am slowly in the process of getting everything running right. I can drive her really great right now, and can even get into boost where my AFRS seem pretty decent (up to about 4lbs!).But I am having an issue where whenever I try to go beyond 50% throttle, or WOT it starts running INCREDIBLY lean (17-19+), no matter how many adjustments I try to make on ECMLINK. Could it be that my VE Table is off that much?

TLDR: My car died on the road, got towed home, had 2 CELS. Fixed them. Tune was Reset. In process of fixing, but car is still really lean when WOT no matter how much fuel adjustments i make on ECMLINK.

I will post a log as soon as I can.
 
I had an issue getting my car to lean out not too long ago. I adjusted the maf settings so boostest closely matched my map sensor readings and then I could finally make adjustments using direct access. I haven't used the fuel sliders since v3 came out.
 
I had an issue getting my car to lean out not too long ago. I adjusted the maf settings so boostest closely matched my map sensor readings and then I could finally make adjustments using direct access. I haven't used the fuel sliders since v3 came out.

I don't have a MAF sensor, what tab are you adjusting on the direct access?
 
Didn't see where you stated it was SD. I adjust using openloopmaxoct then copy the adjustments and paste to openloopminoct.

I have read a little about doing that, I guess I just don't fully understand the table. I have done slight adjustments to that, and noticed a pretty decent change. Is there anywhere you recommend reading about it more? I am just not very confident about how much to change the values in the boxes. Because it says it should 10.5 but in reality its like 16+.

Oh, I also haven't copied it from one table to another, I'll give that a shot too.


[Part of my problem is my ECMLink cable is bad, and i have to squeeze together the USB cord to get it to work, and on top of that my laptop battery lasts like 10 minutes LOL. ]
 
Those are the values that it is supposed to be at, at that rpm under that load. Just because it says 10.5 doesn't mean that's what it will be. I started out tracking the data log with the table detached and the opacity nearly see through. Watched where it was while in a full throttle pull and started making adjustments based on the current ratio.

I run e85 and shoot for about 12.5 ratio under 30 psi. If I'm reading 13.2 like I was in some points I would adjust by -0.5 ratio. So it says 10.5 I'd bring it down to 10.0 then grab another log.

But seeing as your running SD I don't know how much it would help seeing as I'm still not running it and don't plan to until I start over running my MAF which will be a while.

I'd say in your case if it does happen to adjust out it wouldn't hurt you to drop it by a full point or two and see what happens.

Remember the lower you go in the table the richer it gets. The higher you go the leaner it gets.
 
Those are the values that it is supposed to be at, at that rpm under that load. Just because it says 10.5 doesn't mean that's what it will be. I started out tracking the data log with the table detached and the opacity nearly see through. Watched where it was while in a full throttle pull and started making adjustments based on the current ratio.

I run e85 and shoot for about 12.5 ratio under 30 psi. If I'm reading 13.2 like I was in some points I would adjust by -0.5 ratio. So it says 10.5 I'd bring it down to 10.0 then grab another log.

But seeing as your running SD I don't know how much it would help seeing as I'm still not running it and don't plan to until I start over running my MAF which will be a while.

I'd say in your case if it does happen to adjust out it wouldn't hurt you to drop it by a full point or two and see what happens.

Remember the lower you go in the table the richer it gets. The higher you go the leaner it gets.

alright, ill make some pretty big changes tomorrow, and see what i happens, hopefully ill actually be able to log some data too!
 
I have read a little about doing that, I guess I just don't fully understand the table. I have done slight adjustments to that, and noticed a pretty decent change. Is there anywhere you recommend reading about it more? I am just not very confident about how much to change the values in the boxes. Because it says it should 10.5 but in reality its like 16+.

Oh, I also haven't copied it from one table to another, I'll give that a shot too.


[Part of my problem is my ECMLink cable is bad, and i have to squeeze together the USB cord to get it to work, and on top of that my laptop battery lasts like 10 minutes LOL. ]

Go to a walmart or anything with automotive and pick up a 12volt power adapter for like $10, then you can plug it into your cigarette lighter and plug your laptop in so it won't die
 
Go to a walmart or anything with automotive and pick up a 12volt power adapter for like $10, then you can plug it into your cigarette lighter and plug your laptop in so it won't die

haha im about to do this, thank you!

still nothing... heres my log from today, i haven't gotten to go through it yet.
 
still looking for help! Is there anything I should be logging, that I am not?
 
Hey bro what makes you think that your ecu is the problem? Have you tried cleaning your injectors checking your fuel pump and lines, the filter etc maybe is a mechanical problem not an ecu problem after 50% throttle the system starts to deliver the most and if is not efficient enough... you get the point
 
If I'm reading 13.2 like I was in some points I would adjust by -0.5 ratio. So it says 10.5 I'd bring it down to 10.0 then grab another log.

This is completely the wrong way to go about it. If you are targeting 11.0 in the AFR DA table (OpenLoopMaxOct) at any point, then that is what your WB should read. If it doesn't, then your airflow calibration is off and needs to be worked on.

OP, based on the VE table in the log you posted, you have a LOT of airflow calibration to do before worry about the AFR DA table.
 
The latest log contains no WOT sections.

Your DA fuel tables are horrible. I'm not sure why you having it going richer than factory (up to 8:1). Reset those to factory for now.

I'd also suggest loading in at least a 2g DA timing table. The 1g table tends to be pretty extreme.



Actually, please just start over. I'm not sure who tuned your car (yourself or a shop) but it's not a good start at all. Reset all sliders back to 0, reset your SD table back to stock, and reset all DA tables back to stock.

Read through this thread next and post up confirmation of all items.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecm...efore-you-ask-ecmlink-dsmlink-log-advice.html

Then check out the other sticky threads in here.
ECMlink Tuning Help - DSM Forums

Then I would create a new thread and ask for help from the beginning.
 
@Snowboarder714

I had it done at a shop, which it worked great for 2 years! Until my original problems started in my first post. I've been comparing my tables to other people's and I've been reading the SD101 Wiki page. Some of the more drastic measures with the sliders were unfortunately done by me (LOL). In any hopes of trying to get it to run more rich. I appearently didn't get any logs of 100% throttle I guess though, I did notice that when i got home. But it is calibrated properly, as when the car is off, and press it to 100% it reads 100%. Where can I find a copy of the original VE table, and 2g DA timing table? and as for the DA fuel table, thats what I was doing @92ts1 said, in my attempts to try to run rich at all. To my disappoint though, nothing helped. And Am still running lean.

and how do calibrate my airflow?

Another thing worth mentioning, I have the upgraded walboro 255, but I didn't rewire yet, one of my friends was recommending doing so, saying it would hold together for a bit, but eventually shit out on me? Anybody have any experiences with that?


and @Eclipsyco
Yes, for one, my injectors are brand new (well 5 months now). When my problems first started, I immediately replaced the fuel filter.
 
You can find the 2g timing tables in the DA file here.
v3configs [ECMTuning - wiki]

Please pick either the DA tables :))) or the sliders :)() to use. Don't use both at the same time unless performing simple tests that you'll later integrate into the DA tables.

Search on here for a tool called LinkTools. Inside of there you'll find a good base SD table to load in.

FYI, the scale goes like this.
Rich 9.5:1 ---- 11.5:1 Lean

From the factory, your car will target around 9.6:1 AFR. In the end, this will need to be leaned out to around 11:1 (depends on what fuel you're running). Anything richer than 10:1 is just too rich.
 
You can find the 2g timing tables in the DA file here.
v3configs [ECMTuning - wiki]

Please pick either the DA tables :))) or the sliders :)() to use. Don't use both at the same time unless performing simple tests that you'll later integrate into the DA tables.

Search on here for a tool called LinkTools. Inside of there you'll find a good base SD table to load in.

FYI, the scale goes like this.
Rich 9.5:1 ---- 11.5:1 Lean

From the factory, your car will target around 9.6:1 AFR. In the end, this will need to be leaned out to around 11:1 (depends on what fuel you're running). Anything richer than 10:1 is just too rich.

I will do this asap! and then I will come crawling back for help with new results and logs LOL. thanks alot snowboarder714!

Another thing I noticed was my AFREST was saying it should've been about 9.6, while my LC1WB was reading 17.0, is this a result of my airflow not calibrated properly?

also, whenever i moved the sliders for fuel, or DA table, I noticed no difference in AFR. Is this also because of my airflow?
 
Exactly. Well, that and the combo of your DA fuel table targeting 8:1 and your fuel sliders being jacked up.

also, whenever i moved the sliders for fuel, or DA table, I noticed no difference in AFR. Is this also because of my airflow?
 
Most likely, yes.

The DA tables are just target numbers. If your airflow is calibrated, you'll see both AFRatioEst and wideband lines hit your target numbers. If it's not calibrated, you will see a big variance.

I did calibrate it before I put it in, I have the innovate MLX-1 I think its called. And its all put into the ecu properly, and have been logging it! From my understanding, its the same as the LC-1 in the ECU input options, correct?

oh just realized you were talking about the airflow, not my Sensor* my bad LOL
 
Last edited:
I did calibrate it before I put it in, I have the innovate MLX-1 I think its called. And its all put into the ecu properly, and have been logging it! From my understanding, its the same as the LC-1 in the ECU input options, correct?

oh just realized you were talking about the airflow, not my Sensor* my bad LOL

Yup, you figured it out. As far as the inputs, the wire color for the factory wideband signal is different from the LC-1, but the ECU pin you connect it to is the same.


For idle tuning, you can just do this by hand using track datalog while live logging your idle. Just watch what cells are being used and adjust them.

Here's what you'll use for cruise and random driving tuning.
sdveadjcomft [ECMTuning - wiki]

Here's the tool I mentioned before. It will really help you tune your WOT SD values.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecmlink-tuning-help/411083-ecmlink-linktools.html
 
Yup, you figured it out. As far as the inputs, the wire color for the factory wideband signal is different from the LC-1, but the ECU pin you connect it to is the same.


For idle tuning, you can just do this by hand using track datalog while live logging your idle. Just watch what cells are being used and adjust them.

Here's what you'll use for cruise and random driving tuning.
sdveadjcomft [ECMTuning - wiki]

Here's the tool I mentioned before. It will really help you tune your WOT SD values.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/ecmlink-tuning-help/411083-ecmlink-linktools.html

Okay thanks so much!

So I am trying to copy over the 2g Timing tables that you mentioned earlier, and my ECMlink is saying that there isn't enough columns, (clearly the 2g has like 18~ more columns) how do I adjust this, if possible?
 
Please pick the DA tables to use.

Fixed. :p

OP - I can't stress enough how important it is that you have no exhaust leaks upstream of the WB and/or front O2 sensor. I haven't looked closely at the
log, but if you are running "lean" no matter what you do to richen it up, then either you are out of fuel, or you aren't really running lean at all and the WB/O2 sensor is giving false readings.

Since your profile isn't filled out, I have no idea if you could be out of fuel. When is the last time you checked your fuel filter?

Please update your profile so we have an idea of what we are looking at. ;)
 
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