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Need help with RPM issue!

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stealth13

10+ Year Contributor
136
0
Oct 10, 2008
calgary,
I recently have a new act 2100 clutch installed and it's shifting great.

Have came across 2 problems that I noticed.

1. The engine rpm will idle great (around 800 rpm), BUT when I am driving and come to a stop and push the clutch it will will drop to around 300, then slowly come back up to 800. What would cause this??

2. This was after the clutch swap I noticed this - When I am driving straight down the road, the steering wheel is tilted a bit to the left to drive straight. I can take my hand off the wheel and it doesn't pull to either side. What would cause this turn in the steering wheel?
 
Is your BOV recirculated? that could cause your rpms to lower when shifting.

For your steering whell being tilted I think they would fix that during a Front end alignment usually but im not to sure how to fix it myself.
 
Is your BOV recirculated? that could cause your rpms to lower when shifting.

For your steering whell being tilted I think they would fix that during a Front end alignment usually but im not to sure how to fix it myself.
Yes its recirc, I have a stock 1g bov on it.
 
Might just need the clutch broke in or wore down a bit more depending on how thick the clutch material is. As far as the wheel tilting to the left I would guess that the alignment is a bit off after having pulled the right front wheel assembly apart to pull the trans for the clutch change.
 
Yes its recirc, I have a stock 1g bov on it.

sounds like you have an intake leak after the sensor. will make it run rich with any boost leaks. could be anywhere. Valve may be sticking slightly or check throttlebody for any leaks as well.

steering wheel issue is fairly easy to fix by having it fully aligned. Since the wheels are pressed on, it could be that it 'moved' and can be straightened out after a good alignment. Check the suspension for worn tierod issues such as the rubber ends for the control arm too. most of these cars are getting so old that these parts are not in the best of shape and will have lots of play relative to being new and cause all kinds of driving issues.
 
Could the rpm issue have to do with my battery connections? I was driving down the road and it would cut out every once in a while like the car died, then would instantly fire back up because the clutch is engaged. The stereo would also cut out too sometimes.

Plus when I'm parking and turning on the car, it won't always have power, sometimes have to jiggle the terminal a bit.
 
Could the rpm issue have to do with my battery connections? I was driving down the road and it would cut out every once in a while like the car died, then would instantly fire back up because the clutch is engaged. The stereo would also cut out too sometimes.

Plus when I'm parking and turning on the car, it won't always have power, sometimes have to jiggle the terminal a bit.

take the terminal off the battery and clean the outside and inside of the cable end and the battery terminal itself on both positive and negative side. (pos especially) a lose/bad connection can cause all kinds of junk to happen electrically. I had a neon that would just not start or click all of a sudden due to the positive terminal having corrosion on the inside of the connector. Use the wire brush side to clean the inside well. could be the problem.
 
I swapped the 2100 into my car this weekend and I dont have this problem.... I bet you have a vacume leak or something small... But hopefully your master cylinder is stronger then mine LOL the 2100 destroyed it now I need a new 1...
 
I swapped the 2100 into my car this weekend and I dont have this problem.... I bet you have a vacume leak or something small... But hopefully your master cylinder is stronger then mine LOL the 2100 destroyed it now I need a new 1...
I just replaced my master cylinder. I know it's not a boost leak since it pulls hard.
 
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