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Need help with block decision?!? My shop has had a large mess up and now I need to make a decision which way we’re going.

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Robedom

Probationary Member
10
11
Apr 12, 2023
Vista, California
Looking for some advice from the DSM community because I’ve gotten myself into a pretty frustrating situation with this rebuild.

My 1996 Eclipse GSX has been at a shop in California for quite a while getting rebuilt. We started by completely rebuilding the 1G big-port head with upgraded valvetrain, titanium components, cams, etc. After dealing with some problems there and replacing a bunch of parts, we discovered that one of the cylinders in the block was badly scarred.

We pulled the engine, sent the block to the machine shop, had the damaged cylinder sleeved, and had the block completely machined and cleaned up.

Then we discovered there was also a problem with the crankshaft. My builder told me I had a 6-bolt, so I purchased a forged 6-bolt crank from STM Tuned and had it balanced and polished. I also bought Wiseco forged pistons and Manley H-beam rods. At this point I figured I was building a bottom end capable of handling far more power than I would ever actually use — potentially an 800-hp-capable motor even though that isn’t my goal.

Then last night I found out that the block that has been in the car this entire time is actually a 7-bolt.

So now I have a freshly sleeved and machined 7-bolt block, but a brand-new forged 6-bolt crank and H-beams that obviously aren’t going to work with it.

The car only has about 42,000 original miles, and the original block damage appears to have been related to crankwalk/thrust bearing failure. That leaves me trying to decide what direction makes the most sense from here.

Do I:

  1. Keep the freshly machined and sleeved 7-bolt block and buy another forged crank and H-beams for the 7-bolt?
OR
  1. Find a good 6-bolt block and finish converting the car from the original 7-bolt setup to a 6-bolt?

My concern with staying 7-bolt is crankwalk. I have a pretty aggressive clutch/master setup in the car, and from what I’ve been reading, clutch pressure/load may have contributed to the thrust bearing failure in the first place.

That said, the actual goal for the car is only around 450–500 hp on E85. I have absolutely no intention of racing it, launching it repeatedly, or trying to make 800 hp. This is basically a weekend car that will probably see 1,000 miles or less per year.

So am I overthinking the crankwalk issue? With a properly machined/rebuilt 7-bolt, good forged rotating assembly, correct clearances, and only 450–500 hp, would you guys have any hesitation running the 7-bolt in this application?

The other consideration is what to do with the parts I don’t use.

If I go 6-bolt, I’ll have a completely cleaned, machined and sleeved 7-bolt block available that has already had all the machine work done.

If I stay 7-bolt, I’ll have a brand-new STM Tuned forged 6-bolt crank that has been balanced and polished, along with the 6-bolt Manley H-beams, that I’ll need to sell.

Is there much of a market for either setup? I’d obviously like to recover some of the money I’ve dumped into this because of the 6-bolt/7-bolt misunderstanding.

One last piece of context: this isn’t really a “build the fastest DSM possible” project anymore. This particular car was featured in Sport Compact Car back in 1999, and my goal now is to restore it into something resembling a period-correct time capsule. I want it fast and reliable, but I don’t want to turn it into a modern 800-hp race build with a bunch of modifications that wouldn’t have made sense for the car in that era.

Given that goal, 450–500 hp on E85, very limited annual mileage, and no racing, would you finish the 7-bolt that I already have fully machined, or would you use this opportunity to go 6-bolt?

Interested to hear what the DSM community thinks.
 
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You have lots of money in the 7 bolt block. I would say leave it as a 7 bolt and get good internals to go with it. I would definitely do good I beams and good pistons and build a good 1000HP capable bottom end. I would sell the 6-bolt internals but keep the crank. Those are becoming harder to find. Oil it up and properly store it for the future if you go 6 bolt. My take or what I would do.
 
The #4 cylinder looks like it still has rust in it and the deck job on the block looks off. It looks like someone ran a 1" end mill around on it. Technically this could work as long as there is no movement between passes but what kind of machine shop doesn't have the proper tooling for surfacing a block...... Also looks like they may have taken a ton of material off of the deck because I can see the line between the block and cylinder sleeves. It may just be the way they did it that makes that visible but I would be livid if I got my block back looking like that and you will probably never be able to sell that block to anyone.
 
Yeah......am I looking at the top of a block that was decked? I've never seen anything like it or my eyes are goofy. It should be completely flat.
 
Here is another angle of that mill job. There’s definitely no rust. That’s a reflection from the engine stand. But I’m not sure what the mill should look like. I would assume completely flat as well. But I was taking these pics while I was being told that it was a 7 bolt and all the parts they had me buy were 6 bolt and none of it was compatible so I wasn’t thinking straight at the moment.

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Did the shop tell you how much they took off the block?

The surface of the block should look uniform and even after surfacing it. Maybe their machine was down and someone tossed it in a cnc or a mill to do it. But if that was the case they most definitely should have let you know what was going on. I wouldn't trust it. I doubt you'll be able to sell it for anything more than core price. I would either bring it to another shop and have them look at it or get a 6 bolt block and bring it to a different shop. I would never bring anything to the shop that did that to your block.

This is the area i was talking about that looks like rust in the cylinder. Could be a reflection but looks a lot like rust staining. Can be hard to tell from pictures
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I'd like to see a flat edge across it, that would settle any questions.
 
That will never seal with an MLS gasket, you'd need to run a composite or Vulcan cut ring gasket.

Aside from that, usually once a block has suffered crankwalk, it will do it again. That's a shitty situation to have dumped all this money into a block that will potentially do it again.
 
Yes those are aftermarket sleeves. I paid 500$ for the sleeves and then 1880 to have it machined and honed.

The car is really beautiful and will stay garage kept like a time capsule. I’ll only drive this car maybe 500-800 miles per year. I’ll want power but won’t rip it. I will likely buy a new stm forged crank with larger oil journals, I think that’s what they are, which should help with some of the crank walk. I can also buy a lighter flywheel. But I have a heavy stage five clutch master clutch on there. But if I’m not putting miles on it, this seven bolt should be just fine. I’m thinking. I just wanna make sure I’m not tripping on this machine Block not being clean enough.

Im going to set this in the garage like a collectors car. It only has 42k miles. I’d like to preserve it as much as possible

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It was garaged for 26 years under a cover
 

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Take a look at how the machining is done when a block is decked, in this video, from 3:31 to 4:31.
That link will drop you into the video right at 3:31
You will see that the cutting tool sweeps all the way across the top of the block and it doesn't leave behind anything like what we see on the top of your block which is full of tool marks that are sort of localized.
The tool marks on yours look like they were made by about a 1 inch diameter cutter. Sheesh!

But I was taking these pics while I was being told that it was a 7 bolt and all the parts they had me buy were 6 bolt and none of it was compatible so I wasn’t thinking straight at the moment.
"They" had you buy 6-bolt parts for a 7-bolt block? Before you said that, I thought it was just your mistake, which happens a lot with enthusiasts who don't know everything yet. But for "them" to make that mistake - I'd never have anything done by them whoever they are and the block they worked on should probably never be used by anybody.
 
As much as I hate to say this, source a 6 bolt block and put your worries behind you!
Here is a properly decked block. Its a 6 bolt BTW.

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