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Very nice!

Good luck with that Moroso oil pan. Those things are a bi*** to keep from leaking and notorious for warped flanges. I still have one on my car and some days I wonder why I still do.
 
if hes plannin on runnin 8's i'm gonna guess that it has been hard bloked, and will only have water running through the head. I'm not to shure how that is going to work on the street though. if he's gonna run alcohol he might be able to get away with it.
 
whow congrats on the set up look realy good but 8 on a street car,is going to take a lil over 900 whp, but good luck to u keep us updated
 
The block is filled and the head is cooled via a Meziere electric water pump. The Moroso oil pan is a total pain in the butt, however in order to keep it street driveable I really wanted the extra capacity. I run a remote oil filter setup that passes through a fairly large Fluidyne oil cooler. Keeping the oil temps down is the key to making it work on the street.

It still runs Gasoline (c-16) however it is well suited to switch to E85 ethanol once it becomes available in my area. I honestly prefer to stick with C-16 though to stay legal in the classes I'd like to run in.

900whp is very attainable I believe, maybe not immediately but it will happen. I have never had any trouble making good power.. I never had the suspension or drivetrain to really utilize the power I had though. Along with this motor I reworked the entire car as well. I have added a Shep dogbox, fully prepped chassis, JIC suspension, etc. I also shaved quite a bit of weight.

Some motor specs:
2.0 block and crank, groden aluminum rods, Ross/Magnus 10:1 pistons, Titan ICS head gasket, ARP studs everywhere, self ported 2g head with oversized supertech valves, supertech dual springs, custom crane cams, Polk intake manifold, FIC primary fuel rail, 1200cc primary injectors, skunk2 cam gears, plus alot of little tricks ;)

Also keep in mind I said "streetable"not daily driveable. I wouldnt want to drive this everyday.
 
JeanDSM said:
what do you mean by? The block is filled , sorry for my ignorance, and why only water running on the head? you still need oil right?
Click to expand...

They fill in the coolant passages in the block to strengthen it.
 
He already stated that there is a cooling system for the head, the block is filled so there is no way for coolant to be circulated through the block.
 
Should have gone with a dry sump system.
 
HighPsi91 said:
The block is filled and the head is cooled via a Meziere electric water pump. The Moroso oil pan is a total pain in the butt, however in order to keep it street driveable I really wanted the extra capacity. I run a remote oil filter setup that passes through a fairly large Fluidyne oil cooler. Keeping the oil temps down is the key to making it work on the street.

It still runs Gasoline (c-16) however it is well suited to switch to E85 ethanol once it becomes available in my area. I honestly prefer to stick with C-16 though to stay legal in the classes I'd like to run in.

900whp is very attainable I believe, maybe not immediately but it will happen. I have never had any trouble making good power.. I never had the suspension or drivetrain to really utilize the power I had though. Along with this motor I reworked the entire car as well. I have added a Shep dogbox, fully prepped chassis, JIC suspension, etc. I also shaved quite a bit of weight.

Some motor specs:
2.0 block and crank, groden aluminum rods, Ross/Magnus 10:1 pistons, Titan ICS head gasket, ARP studs everywhere, self ported 2g head with oversized supertech valves, supertech dual springs, custom crane cams, Polk intake manifold, FIC primary fuel rail, 1200cc primary injectors, skunk2 cam gears, plus alot of little tricks ;)

Also keep in mind I said "streetable"not daily driveable. I wouldnt want to drive this everyday.
Click to expand...
Is your 2g head ported out to be like a 1g head or is it a custom job?
 
Good luck with the goal :) I was close to getting one of those intake manifolds when Don was doing my long block for me.
PM sent about the cams :)
 
very impressive.
Good luck with it.
 
HighPsi91 said:
The block is filled and the head is cooled via a Meziere electric water pump. The Moroso oil pan is a total pain in the butt, however in order to keep it street driveable I really wanted the extra capacity. I run a remote oil filter setup that passes through a fairly large Fluidyne oil cooler. Keeping the oil temps down is the key to making it work on the street.

It still runs Gasoline (c-16) however it is well suited to switch to E85 ethanol once it becomes available in my area. I honestly prefer to stick with C-16 though to stay legal in the classes I'd like to run in.

900whp is very attainable I believe, maybe not immediately but it will happen. I have never had any trouble making good power.. I never had the suspension or drivetrain to really utilize the power I had though. Along with this motor I reworked the entire car as well. I have added a Shep dogbox, fully prepped chassis, JIC suspension, etc. I also shaved quite a bit of weight.

Some motor specs:
2.0 block and crank, groden aluminum rods, Ross/Magnus 10:1 pistons, Titan ICS head gasket, ARP studs everywhere, self ported 2g head with oversized supertech valves, supertech dual springs, custom crane cams, Polk intake manifold, FIC primary fuel rail, 1200cc primary injectors, skunk2 cam gears, plus alot of little tricks ;)

Also keep in mind I said "streetable"not daily driveable. I wouldnt want to drive this everyday.
Click to expand...


Just out of curiosity do you feel that hard blok is absoliulty nessecary at your power levels? I know shep has his done but it is a drag car only and he's making like 1200 hp. What sort of power level is it nessecary at on these engines? How streetable are you planning on it being with no water in the block? good luck tho I hope it works out well for ya
 
The streetability of the filled block is a concern, of course. I believe it will be fine for my street usage which is mainly just joy rides and street tuning. For a daily driver it is likely a bad choice. There was a certain street driven Supra out there that dynoed something like 1500whp with a filled block. It was street driven, so that gives me a bit of hope. I;ve never been afraid of trying new things for myself.. it could fail but I am fairly confidant it wont.

What power level is a filled block needed, I have no idea to be honest. I have personally cracked three blocks. Was it caused by the block being pushed past its limits or just too edgy of a tune? I dont know for sure. I do know that I want to eliminate as many sources of potential failure as possible so filling makes sense, for obvious and not-so obvious reasons. I also know that the first filled motor I ever build was the strongest running motor I ever had... even though all other elements remained the same as its predecesor. So thats pretty much my standing on filled blocks. They're not for everyone or ever application.

The 2g head I ported and reshaped a bit. I have long said that I felt 2g heads were superior. It is port matched to a 1g intake manifold runner size but otherwise maintains the 2g intake port profile pretty closely.

A dry sump system would be cool.. however it really woudlnt gain me much. It does offer better oil control in the pan which can reduce windage and free up a small amount of power. Other than that it has no benefit. It does however add more cost, complexity, junk in the engine bay taking up space, and more potential points of failure. The factory oiling system is more than adequate for any power level a 4g63 will ever see.
 
HighPsi91 said:
The streetability of the filled block is a concern, of course. I believe it will be fine for my street usage which is mainly just joy rides and street tuning. For a daily driver it is likely a bad choice. There was a certain street driven Supra out there that dynoed something like 1500whp with a filled block. It was street driven, so that gives me a bit of hope. I;ve never been afraid of trying new things for myself.. it could fail but I am fairly confidant it wont.

What power level is a filled block needed, I have no idea to be honest. I have personally cracked three blocks. Was it caused by the block being pushed past its limits or just too edgy of a tune? I dont know for sure. I do know that I want to eliminate as many sources of potential failure as possible so filling makes sense, for obvious and not-so obvious reasons. I also know that the first filled motor I ever build was the strongest running motor I ever had... even though all other elements remained the same as its predecesor. So thats pretty much my standing on filled blocks. They're not for everyone or ever application.

The 2g head I ported and reshaped a bit. I have long said that I felt 2g heads were superior. It is port matched to a 1g intake manifold runner size but otherwise maintains the 2g intake port profile pretty closely.

A dry sump system would be cool.. however it really woudlnt gain me much. It does offer better oil control in the pan which can reduce windage and free up a small amount of power. Other than that it has no benefit. It does however add more cost, complexity, junk in the engine bay taking up space, and more potential points of failure. The factory oiling system is more than adequate for any power level a 4g63 will ever see.
Click to expand...
So you didn't touch the floor of the 2g runners to much? This interestsme because I understand why its better and I hope people hop on the 2g head bandwagon :)
 
Well, I got the car running this weekend. Yesterday I ran it pretty hard (my typical breakin routine). I made 15-20psi pulls all day long revving it out to 10,000 in 1st and 9500 in 2nd and 3rd. Compression tests held constant all day and it appears to be holding up pretty good. With the exception of an alternator belt that hates life past 9000rpm and what appears to be some sort of ignition failure at the end of the day things went pretty good so far. This is one rev happy setup :)
 
 
 
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