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LA97GST

15+ Year Contributor
287
0
May 24, 2004
Slidell, Louisiana
Ok now I just bought my 2006 ZX6R and now all my money is going back into my car. Right now I drive a 1997 GS-T, but would love a GSX but will stick with the GST since can't find a GSX. Oh well. Here it goes.

Current Mods:
ACT 2100 clutch
ACT XACT Streetlight flywheel
Extreme Technologies 3" cat-back exhaust
Extreme Technologies 2.5" downpipe
Extreme Technologies 2.5" Hi-Flo cat
Greddy Type-S Blow-Off Valve
Greddy InterCooler Pipe Kit
Injen Intake System
Greddy Full Auto Turbo Timer

Now I will post list of parts I think I need to get my goal of 400-450 whp on pump with 11 sec. passes hopefully. This car will be used as my daily (unless it warm enough to ride bike which it will be after winter :) ) Feel free to make changes to list and these purchases will be made in about 1,000 spurts seperated by about 3 weeks between each. Long project but need to get started. Please give me advice on what items you think I should purchase first to maintain the ability to drive and make as much power at the time being. Here we go.

Wanted Mods:
Built 6 bolt w/
Ross pistons (8.5:1)
Eagle H-beam rods
Reman 4G63 crank
All ARP hardware and all new little gaskets and parts.
Crower 64414 Camshafts
Crower Cam gears
Prothane Mounts
DSMLink or SAFCII
SBR Stage II head
SBR Ex. Mani
38mm Tial WG
SBR GT12
SBR 2g FMIC w/ blowthrough setup
3 inch GM MAF
MAFT
750cc injectors
255 pump
Aeromotive AFPR
SS fuel lines
2.5 O2 housing (routed back into exhaust?)
Magnus SMIM
SBR LSD
All gauges to moniter

After typing that I'm sure I missed some stuff but that's all I can take right now. Please tell me if I'm going overboard with this long list of expensive items. I want to do it right and have it last.
 
850cc or bigger injectors
stronger clutch
no maft with dsmlink

on a side note, SBR LSD insert is worth every penny, plus some.
 
BrokenTsi said:
mickey thompsons, solid motor mounts, and suspension.

Ok no offense but that was not a very helpful post. I know a little suspension will be done sometimes and runs will be made with drag slicks more than likely, but I'm not worried about drag passes right now. Also this is my daily so "solid" mounts are not practical at all. Also what do you think of the RS49T from AGP? Will this be a better turbo for my goals? Also I would like to run SAFC if possible to cut down on cost, because I wanna get this done within 5 months.
 
Yeah slicks and solid motor mounts to run 11's?????

I think your list is great except I would get a intake manifold too. Other than that you have the main components to run fast(fuel, air, tuning) The numbers you want are gonna require some realllllllll good tuning but I think with the gt12 and some some luck it's doable. Look into weight reduction that is always the most overlooked mod that you can do and most times the cheapest.
 
it will be incredibly difficult to get 450hp with an SAFC with that large of injectors. can it be done? yes, but your gonna have to be good. real good. if anything at least get a 95eprom with a chip so it idles like stock with huge injectors, then use the SAFC to get a fine tune. but DSMLINK would be your best bet.

i also agree with an intake mani. upgrade that crap.
 
bkruahnndon said:
it will be incredibly difficult to get 450hp with an SAFC with that large of injectors. can it be done? yes, but your gonna have to be good. real good. if anything at least get a 95eprom with a chip so it idles like stock with huge injectors, then use the SAFC to get a fine tune. but DSMLINK would be your best bet.

i also agree with an intake mani. upgrade that crap.


I agree wholeheartedly! I am no supertuner by any stretch. But it was heard as he!! to tune my 650s with MAFt, which is very similar to SAFC, IMO. You should be able to do it with DSMLink. It should have been my first mod.

Your ACT 2100 may not hold up well for a DD at the horsepower level you're shooting for. DEFINATELY look into stickys and at least an LSD insert (everyone flame me about the insert :p now).
 
Yes a 2600 would be my clutch. And if you look at my list I have the LSD insert and the magnus SMIM. I guess DSMlink would be my best bet. Any suggestions on what to order first? I don't really want to buy parts to only have them lay around for months.
 
Yes that is always a choice, but might be over kill on performance and money. Right now it will either be a 60 trim or (my favorite) the GT12
 
You will want some stiff suspension up front to help reduce wheel hop and have a more even distribution of power at launch and he does have an intake mani on his list..Magnus SMIM..sheet metal intake manifold? and why do you say no maft with dsmlink? Brandon [VFRacing]
 
I added the mounts to control most hop, but I am more worried about getting the engine up and running before I ever think of running it. Suspension will come last in my mind. Also I do not know why he said no MAFT with dsmlink... I will use DSMlink and the MAFT set at 0.
 
Sorry I did not see the magnus on there the first time I looked at your post you sure you didn't just add it hahah j/k. Yeah I don't think that a safc will get it done without a lot of good hours tuning and some luck too. Either get dsmlink or a chip and safc or maft v2. I agree the gm maft has enough uses and benefits you would be losing out not to use it with dsmlink. Just th descrease is lag from taking away a MAS before the turbo would be enough for me to get it.
 
sorry i was thinking of ECU+ where you dont need the translator, just the MAF. its got the translator built in to the software. i guess i just didnt realize DSMLINK didnt have that feature.
 
bkruahnndon said:
sorry i was thinking of ECU+ where you dont need the translator, just the MAF. its got the translator built in to the software. i guess i just didnt realize DSMLINK didnt have that feature.


Not Yet. ;)

Seth
 
LA97GST said:
Ok no offense but that was not a very helpful post. I know a little suspension will be done sometimes and runs will be made with drag slicks more than likely, but I'm not worried about drag passes right now. Also this is my daily so "solid" mounts are not practical at all. Also what do you think of the RS49T from AGP? Will this be a better turbo for my goals? Also I would like to run SAFC if possible to cut down on cost, because I wanna get this done within 5 months.

Not helpful? You said that you wanted prothane mounts in your wishlist of parts. They are the same thing! You need them or else you'll be breaking transmissions and axles. Good luck getting traction without slicks or drag radials let alone suspension.

I used to have an rs49. Dont even bother with it. Its too small. Its fun to play with on the street. But being FWD with a built motor, I'd go something ALOT bigger. Pump gas? You'll have a hell of a time running an 11 without some sick slicks.

Daily driver huh? If you're worried about solid mounts, then you'll hate your car when you have no balance shafts, cams, and a built motor. With dsmlink you'll have your laptop hooked up 24/7 watching the monitor more than the road, LOL, trust me I know.

How can you not be worried about drag passes when you want to run 11's? Gonna run an 11sec quartermile in your backyard? Stop contradicting yourself! You're going to have to do it on slicks, race gas, and lots of boost.

And please dont build a motor and run a sissy turbo like a 50 trim. Its a big waste.

Let's see, how else can I be helpful. Stop visiting SBR's website. I mean, if you have money to waste you can give me some but.... There are better cheaper alternatives.
 
If those Crowers are their stage 4's you'de be much better with the stage 3's. The stage 3's are a tad more than HKS 272's. The stage 4's are too much for a DD IMHO.
If you really like the SBR ball bearing turbo's get the 60-1 equivalant-GT-13 or 14. Mark
 
Those cams are NOT the full race cams. And to brokentsi I said I was gonna run suspension and drag rad.'s later AFTER I get the thing running. Why would I buy slicks first only to have it sit in my driveway? I might not even run it at the track, just using that as a reference for the type of power I wish to acheive. If "solid" mounts are hard plastic mounts are the same to you then sorry but my vision of solid mounts were just a piece of metal with no bushing. And I am in the process of ordering a few parts such as DSMlink and set of used injectors for the classifieds. I am going to use SBR for the parts I do not wanna get used, such as the turbocharger, FMIC, internals, LSD, pump, and mounts. Better broken need I have to explain this to you too?
 
LA97GST said:
Those cams are NOT the full race cams. And to brokentsi I said I was gonna run suspension and drag rad.'s later AFTER I get the thing running. Why would I buy slicks first only to have it sit in my driveway? I might not even run it at the track, just using that as a reference for the type of power I wish to acheive. If "solid" mounts are hard plastic mounts are the same to you then sorry but my vision of solid mounts were just a piece of metal with no bushing. And I am in the process of ordering a few parts such as DSMlink and set of used injectors for the classifieds. I am going to use SBR for the parts I do not wanna get used, such as the turbocharger, FMIC, internals, LSD, pump, and mounts. Better broken need I have to explain this to you too?

Well, prothane mounts are about as solid as it gets. ROCK SOLID. When I built my motor and dropped it in, i had to stand on the damn thing and jump on the engine to squeeze the motor in place. I got pictures, its real funny, LOL.

You said you wanted 11sec timeslips and 450whp on pump gas. Just saying you need slicks to do it, thats all. I didn't say go order them now and drive around on a t25.
And I never said to get used parts, but SBR is sooo expensive. But if you have money to waste, go with sbr, they have good parts.
 
The Crower 414's are a race cam, not a street/strip. Just semantics for what some call a rough idle others say it's just fine! If someone would go to www.crower.com and click on catalog and then go to page 68 there are the specs for the cams at the valve for duration as on the original DSM page they list duration at the cam lobe. I have been trying to get this info for some time but cannot access the page with my webTV! You mat even have to download ADOBE which is free on the catalog page in order to access the info, someone?! Mark
 
SB says 413 a mild (264's) set, 414 little rougher idle with good gains (272's), and 415 as a full race cam shaft. I think the 414's would be decent for DD use with the use of dsmlink to tune the motor. BTW dsmlink will be my first upgrade and I'm talking to someone now about buying their dsmlink setup for 650 dollars.
 
Just save up for dsmlink, with a setup like that it will be hard to tune "well" with the safc and with dsmlink you get all the additional features that will help you out alot to get those 11 second passes at the strip. As for the LSD insert are you sure it will hold up to the power you will be making? I was origionally going to go with one of these because of their super cheep price but after some reading I've heard positive & negative. I think their best for lower hp applications. With the kind of setup your looking at I'd go with a true lsd. Since your going to go with Dsmlink ;) I'd go larger on those injector's, atleast 850 but with the link you can have any size work like stock, so while your spending the money might as well get even bigger then that. (I run 750's with my evoIII and @ 18 psi I se ~65% duty cycle and I'm not close to maxing it out, still all stock internals)
 
Looking at that list, I pretty much have that same set-up down to the last bit. Let me give you some good advice, and you will regret if you dont go this route, this I promise you. Get AEM EMS! All this piggy-back on piggy-back mojo is really horrible to tune, especially when you are going to run >660cc injectors. Your timing will be out of control, even if you have Jeff's chip. When I was running piggy-backs it put down somewhere around 340whp and with AEM and no other changes it put down 412+ on pump and 21psi. Yes, DsmLink will take care of the timing issue, but with any type of aggressive cam, your idle HG will be horrible and overall driveability will be greatly sacrificed. Good luck and I hope you it works out for you.
 
GermanDSM said:
All this piggy-back on piggy-back mojo is really horrible to tune, especially when you are going to run >660cc injectors.

DSMLink is not a piggyback

GermanDSM said:
Yes, DsmLink will take care of the timing issue, but with any type of aggressive cam, your idle HG will be horrible and overall driveability will be greatly sacrificed. Good luck and I hope you it works out for you.

I know several who have HKS 272s and FP2s who have no idle issues at all with DSMLink. DSMLink lets you go back to the engineers' tuning sessions and have your way with any component in the MPI system. 10s DSMs are getting more and more frequent. AEM is great. But DSMLink is very good and enough for 1600cc injectors and about 1/2 the $$$.


I'd say look at both products and if AEM has somesthing you really want or need then get aem but otherwise get DSMLink.
 
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