My ebay project

[selmerguy]

I beat the crap out of my car this weekend and the turbo is holding up great. Much better then my tranny. That thing is getting noisy. I cant wait to get a good one. I checked for shaft play and it turbo feels just like the day I got it. Very happ so far. I will keep you guys posted.

 

[chicagoavenger]

I keep reading about ebay turbos here and on talk and they seem to hold up fine. Most people see that old pic of that glued turbo are the same ones that say my moms brothers uncles cousins sisters butchers son had one and I heard it exploded . Good for you on taking th eleap like others and I hope this turbo last a just like the other.

 

[Dorifto]

I'm liking the info you're bringing to the table here, selmerguy. Very informative. I'll probably be jumping on the eBay parts wagon soon as well, for testing purposes.

Hopefully come summer-time, I'll have a high-comp 2.1 built, and will be looking into a larger turbo and intercooler [an S16G and a Saab FMIC only does so much on a 2.0 ]. Several Honda/Nissan guys in my area have SSAutochrome products on their hood-rides, and have lasted quite the abuse, even considering the high-hp guys don't know how badly they beat their cars around.

I'd like to get ahold of some SSAutochrome manifolds and turbos - sometime in the future I'll be trying out a crude anti-lag system, and I'd love to see how well they hold up to that kind of abuse.

Keep the writeups coming, I'm definitely interested to see how long this turbo and manifold lasts, or if it even fails.

 

[selmerguy]

Update!!!! It has been awhile since I wrote a update to this thread. The turbo system is holding up great. I have no shaft play and soon I will have a hugh FMIC again. My clutch is not holding up so well. I have a used tranny with a good center diff to put in while I save the money to have my current one rebuilt. I am thinking about using one of those ebay clutch kits, XTD or something like that. I have not heard any bad things about them. I have no clue what the current clutch is but I know the motor has 160k+ and is holding up fine. I have 3g lifters and arp's ready to go in when the tranny work starts. I will go with either a copper or mls head gasket. What else do you think I should do with the motor torn apart? I was thinking about new rings. Should I just buy rings and put them in, or bore and get new pistons .20 over? I might leave the block alone and just work on the head.

Anyways that is the update for now.
Sam

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

I bought an XTD clutch and am very happy with it. I bought the stage 4, because it has a decent pressure plate (2,300lbs), but the kit comes with a 4 or 6 puck unsprung disc. Lame. Fortunately they will send you one of their other discs in place of it so I recomend going with the 6-puck sprung or the street disc. (I've got the 6).

Anyway, It's got a few good launches on it and some heavy in city towing. 5K+ miles and it works great. No complaints.


*edit* Now that I think about it the clutch may have more like 7 or 8K miles on it.

 

[echostats]

Excellent thread! One of the best reads in awhile here on tuners. You're doing what almost every person on this forums says not to do by buying ebay parts and your takin pics of the process! I love it! Great to hear the car is "pulling so hard it's scaring you". That's the kinda of stuff we all love to hear. Good luck to you and of course, keep us posted!

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

Glad to hear your ebay car is holding up! I guess the ebay haters cant say anything until your parts break on you.

Amazing you are pushing the envelope going with an EBAY clutch kit.

Now all you need is to run a decent time at the track! Make sure to have a big EBAY sticker on the car somewhere! haha

 

[selmerguy]

Glad to hear your ebay car is holding up! I guess the ebay haters cant say anything until your parts break on you.

Amazing you are pushing the envelope going with an EBAY clutch kit.

Now all you need is to run a decent time at the track! Make sure to have a big EBAY sticker on the car somewhere! haha

I am cheating alittle bit. I ended up getting a ACT lite flywheel with the used tranny I just bought. I did just buy the xtd stage 4 clutch kit with a sprung hub. I should get it in with the tranny buy middle of MARCH when the weather warms up.

 

[Mike1992]

Track opens March 3rd, weather permitting. Hope to see you out there again

 

[Ravenous]

Well I've found it very hard to resist these ebay knock off products... you might just be giving me what it takes to push me over the edge... awesome... keep up with the updates, I would like to hear how you do at the track come march.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

I am cheating alittle bit. I ended up getting a ACT lite flywheel with the used tranny I just bought. I did just buy the xtd stage 4 clutch kit with a sprung hub. I should get it in with the tranny buy middle of MARCH when the weather warms up.

Good choice. Looking forward to see how it holds up with more power than I've got.

 

[Slippi84]

I'm lazybut I've been running ebay stuff for a while good to see you put it into a thread so others can see cheap isn't always a quality and price thing sometimes it's just cheaper price wise. I have owned both stage 3 and 4 xtd clutchs(the stage 4 is in there now) I have a f1 flywheel tial knock off BOV(same exact thing as the real thing except a steel clamp not aluminum) XS power tubular manifold and o2 housing complete fmic including GIGANTIC fmic(31x12x4). There's probably a couple other thinsg i can't think of right now but funny thing is my car is down and it's all the expensive real stuff that has went. My dsmlink chip got randomly scrambled had to get a new one, my trans which was rebuilt by the dealer right before i bought it(got slips to make sure the guy wasn't full of it) has no fith gear, my gm setup all authentic full throttle stuff didn't work with my car and my rings need to be replaced which WERE OEM.

 

[selmerguy]

I have got 50 questions about fittings that I used to make this work so here is a write up on the fittings I used to plum the 50 trim into my system.
My house is like the summit catalog right now I have fittings everywhere. Here is some of the stuff you will need if you dont have it allready:

If you still have your stock oil feed for the turbo you will want to change it. You will want to run a feed line from your oil pump housing. This means your turbo will get freshly filtered oil. There is a oil pressure sender on the housing that you can make a tee for this feed. For this you will need a 1/8th npt tee. Male to male 1/8npt fitting and a male 1/8npt to -4an fitting. Oh and about 3 feet of braided -4an hose with one straiget and one 45 or 90 degree hose ends. As for the stock oil suppl line get rid of the hardline and plug the hole with jb weld and the stock bolt. I tapped mine to 10x1.5 or something like that and bought a bolt. Also make sure you have the fitting for the top of the turbo. 1/8npt male to -4an male. That takes care of the feed.
For the return you can do it different ways. I bought a flange from ebay that mated to the oil pan where the stock return line went. Just buy the turbo drain flange for the mitsu turbo. Spacing is like 1.5. Then I used about 1.5 feet of -10an hose with one 45 and one straight hose end. Both my drain flanges were 3/8npt so I needed 2, 3/8npt male to -10 an fittings. That was the return. You can also use a N/T oil pan and weld a -10an fitting on it too. If you use the flange make sure to rtv to bolts on the flang sso no oil comes out of those holes. Wow this is getting long.

Now you will notice that the 50 trim only uses oil no coolant. This is not a big deal you just have to do something with the water lines. The first time I took my stock 14b out I broke the hardline from the hard ling going in front of the block. This was ok cause I used some 3/8 heater hose that worked fine. For the 50 trim I just ran the hose from there to the fitting on the tstat housing. So hook those two lines togeather.

So for fittings you will need:
2-18npt male to -4an male
1- 1/8npt male to male
1 18npt female tee
3 feet of -4an braided hose with 2 hose ends that meet your application

1-oil drain flange for a t-3 turbo
1-oil drain flange for oil pan(mitsu turbo)
2- male -10an fittings to what ever size your drain flange's are.
1.5 feet of -10an braided hose and the correct hose ends.
some 3/8 rubber hose to run your water lines togeather. Buy 3 feet.

 

[selmerguy]

I got some stuff done today. No more small FMIC for me

 

[selmerguy]

HA HA! good thing I ordered all that stuff last week. Driving home last night I steped on it alittle bit and my clutch finaly went. I got the car home with no problem I drove in 3rd the wold way. It sounded awful. Yeah time to take stuff apart.

 

[selmerguy]

I know this is in turbo tech but that was just the start of my project. If a mod would move this whole thread to bolton it might help alittle. Here are some pics of my clutch setup. It looks pretty stout to me.

 

[Dream On]

Resurfacing that flywheel before you put it on?

 

[selmerguy]

Resurfacing that flywheel before you put it on?

It just go tback from the machine shop. The pic makes it look bad.

 

[danyz250f]

Next time your taking pics I would like to see how you routed your IC pipes mainly where it goes to the intercooler on the driver side, and how you go through the radiator area. I just rerouted my xs power ic for a downward firing turbo. I cut out the tow hook and wiggled a 2.5 inch pipe in there worked quite well it just hangs below the bumper like an inch.

 

[selmerguy]

Next time your taking pics I would like to see how you routed your IC pipes mainly where it goes to the intercooler on the driver side, and how you go through the radiator area. I just rerouted my xs power ic for a downward firing turbo. I cut out the tow hook and wiggled a 2.5 inch pipe in there worked quite well it just hangs below the bumper like an inch.

I did kinda the same thing. I used a 180 from the Ic then a 90 degree coupler to go through that little gap. Then the pipe to the turbo with a 90 degree bend.

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I heard good things about the XTD clutches, however I hear the flywheel had some problems. I dont know if this was with both the 1g or 2g. But if I can recall I only heard it from 2g owners.

 

[selmerguy]

I heard good things about the XTD clutches, however I hear the flywheel had some problems. I dont know if this was with both the 1g or 2g. But if I can recall I only heard it from 2g owners.

Its all good it is a ACT flywheel.

 

[NOMIEZVR4]

http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167651

More information in regards to the XTD clutches. They seem to be doing a good job thus far...

Great thread! Its nice to see someone pushing the EBAY envelope

Nomie

 

[selmerguy]

I got finished petting the tranny back on for the second time(didnt shim the pivot ball) And got the car started. My car went for the first trip around the block in months... The alternator does not charge cause I dropped it, I put in web 546 and 547 cams so the idle is alittle ruff. My wideband took a dump so I had to order a new sensor but the tranny and clutch work great! It is quite different driving that monster clutch compaired to the stocker. The clutch is either in or out there is no slipping it. Here are some pics. I finaly figured what to do with my double din space since my radio is not normal size. Mods done while I had it apart were:

Xtd stage 4 clutch (sprung 6 puck) with ACT flywheel
web 546-547 cams
obx fuel rail
shifter bearings(rollar blade mod)
fidenza short shifter with symborisky
chrome VC
complete valve job(stock)
arp head studs(90 lbs) comtec muti layer gasket
Balance shafts gone
I put in some visor tvs and that cool little carbon fiber din cover (rice)

 

[Mike1992]

looks nice, when ya gonna head down to the track and get some numbers outta that thing?

http://www.ozarkdragstrip.com/2007 schedule and links/schedule2007.html