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Modify Stock Lifters Instead of Buying Revised?

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jakvett

Probationary Member
7
0
Jan 10, 2011
Seattle, Washington
I am starting to get lifter tick on my 99 GST only when it's cold (outside and engine temp), and have read up on the subject. The cheapest revised lifters I can find are on ebay for $100. However, I have unlimited free access to a full machine shop and was wondering if I could modify the stock lifters in order eliminate the tick.

I think I could put the lifters in a lathe, and drill out the top holes to the revised lifter's size. I could then use the lathe to cut the larger groove in the side (if that has any effect on the tick).

It seems like a simple process, but I haven't read about anyone trying it. Does anyone have any experience or see any issues with my plan? Worst comes to worst, the lifters are unusable, and I buy revised lifters.
 
I think I could put the lifters in a lathe, and drill out the top holes to the revised lifter's size. I could then use the lathe to cut the larger groove in the side (if that has any effect on the tick).

It seems like a simple process, but I haven't read about anyone trying it. Does anyone have any experience or see any issues with my plan? Worst comes to worst, the lifters are unusable, and I buy revised lifters.

Hmmm, If you decide to do the modification I would be very interested in seeing how it worked out. Some pictures possibly...? Good luck to you! :thumb:
 
I think I could put the lifters in a lathe, and drill out the top holes to the revised lifter's size. I could then use the lathe to cut the larger groove in the side (if that has any effect on the tick).

I hope you have some good carbide or diamond grit tools. Lifters are about the most hardened metal you'll find in these motors.

I would just spend the $80 on new lifters; you'll probably spend at least that much replacing cutting tools. :)
 
Fortunately, I have access to carbide tools. I may take a stab at it sometime. My only concern is the depth I need to bore. Is there anything inside the lifter that I should steer clear of, and if so, does anyone know how deep I should bore?
 
Your not likely going to find a answer to this...simply because its a waste of time and its impractical. The new ones cost less than $90. Its not worth it. But good luck.
 
Your not likely going to find a answer to this...simply because its a waste of time and its impractical. The new ones cost less than $90. Its not worth it. But good luck.

I can definitely see how it would be a waste of time and resources for most people; however, I can use a machine shop absolutely for free, so in my case it's worth trying to alter the stock lifters, and, if I ruin them in the process, I buy the new ones anyway.
 
I can definitely see how it would be a waste of time and resources for most people; however, I can use a machine shop absolutely for free, so in my case it's worth trying to alter the stock lifters, and, if I ruin them in the process, I buy the new ones anyway.

Do it!!! I want to see pictures if you can.:thumb:
 
He's busy rebuilding his motor. (just a guess)

LOL

******************

For future reference, here's a few reasons why it's not a good idea.

1. If you are drilling on old stock lifters, they should probably be replaced anyway.

2. The only way to do it properly is to completely disassemble the lifter; and once you remove the cap, you weaken the crimp and run the risk of the lifter failing or even coming apart at high revs.

3. Lifters are tempered and hardened. Unless you really know what you are doing, you run the risk of altering the material properties when you start cutting on them.

4. You'll spend more time and money on buying replacement bits and setting up for the job than you could buy two new sets of properly designed lifters for in the first place.

Just don't do it. There are 2371298789123 other ways to experiment and get satisfaction from modifying your own parts.
 
Who knows if the internal valving on the revised lifters is different to compensate for the larger holes? You may drill out your factory lifters only to have them completely drain every time you turn off the engine. Where is all the metal going to go when you drill them?

I'm with every other poster in this thread- horrible idea considering the price on a set of new revised lifters.
 
If I were doing this I'd be worried about not getting all the metal shavings out of the litters and eventually they find their way thru the engine
 
(Loved the video .. he has a newer EVO with the 4G63 turned around making it not that old. "Dang!"he complains on a $30k vehicle and he's already doing lifters..wonder if he know how to drive and take care on one ... I'll do my own lifters and hope he leaves others alone...)

True though: just save the "effing" money to get the right lifters - don't be cheap in doing funky mods.
 
Well I modified mine in less that 10 minutes. I think the revised 3g lifter bad news for a car reving 8 plus rpm. Bottom end hurts for oil because the lifter hole is entirely too large. I chamfered the stock lifter end so that oil is trapped their during operation. Guess what no more lifter tick:rolleyes:
 

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keltalon- Is that a 1g lifter you modified?
 
I think the revised 3g lifter bad news for a car reving 8 plus rpm
Interesting where I thought that the oil from the pump hits the crank first where it's most needed, then heads up to the top end and why would a milimeter or two difference in opening diameter would drastically reduce oil pressure when there is other areas in the block that has much more higher oil flow than the lifter area?

Sorry, not buying this one. If you got facts on this issue, please share them with us-just don't "think".

-DSM
 
keltalon- Is that a 1g lifter you modified?

Yes sir. Modified 1g lifter this eliminate the need for a kiggly hydraulic lifter pressure regulator to limit oil to the lifters above 8000 rpm in which the oil get pumped into the head faster than it can drain back to the oil pan because of the gigantic hole in the 3g revised lifters. Works flawlessly just my $.02
 

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