MBC install [Merged 10-7]

[b00sted99-X]

HERE, DAMMIT!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237982


ok n00b question here.. i got my MBC all hooked up fine (dejon tool.. sweet!) i'm just wondering what to do with the stock boost solenoid hoses.. i took the top one completely off (this is the one that was going to my intake pipe.. then capped that nipple on the pipe) .. the one on the bottom, that tees off and goes to both the wastegate and the turbo housing, is still there. i just bent it backwards and stuck it in the bracket that the top hose was at.. its still connected to the solenoid though. is this alright? can i leave it on there like that will it screw anything up?

 

[Auto RS T]

I fully understand the question now. Thanks for the explaination.

I have read that some people tap the compressor outlet itself near the coupler for the boost source. Maybe tapping in the IC pipe on the other side of the coupler would be feasable if you don't want to drill your turbo.

I would wait for someone with more knowledge on that style turbo to post on how to set up the MBC.

Would there be any negative side effects tapping the fitting on the IC piping side of the coupler instead of the turbo itself?

 

[oldman]

Tap it at the end of the compressor cover outlet. Most Garrett turbos comes with the compressor housing already tapped with 1/8 npt. In fact the compressor cover would be a better location than the outlet pipe because it's much thicker and easier to tap.

 

[omoral2]

okay I just finished installing my joe-p mbc, and had a question. I didn't want to start a new thread and I think posts 1-4 explained this but I was a little confused. The stock boost controller has 2 lines connected to it and another plug. My question is do I disconnect and take out the stock controller?(which is what I did) or leave it plugged in with the vac lines disconnected?

 

[DSMunknown]

The stock boost controller has 2 lines connected to it and another plug. My question is do I disconnect and take out the stock controller?(which is what I did) or leave it plugged in with the vac lines disconnected?

Nobody uses the search button anymore... *sigh*

Click here. I have posted ten photos of the install in this thread.

Do not remove or unplug the OEM boost controller or your check-engine light will come on. Just leave it there. It will be fine.

 

[Fayt]

Alright, yes, I've read and seen all the pictures. I know how to install this thing. However, I have different lines T'ing and going other places than the pictures show.

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My wastegate actuator is T'd into the BOV line and the BCS. Is that normal? I don't have a nipple on my J-pipe, so I can't hook my MBC to it.

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My Greddy BOV has 2 nipples, one going straight out, one angled out. Angled one goes to WGA/BCS tee, the top one goes to intake manifold/MDP sensor tee.

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Just shows where the top of my BOV tee's off to. I don't know what this sensor does at all, nor do I think it is all that important. I've heard it is called an MDP sensor.


I just have NO IDEA where to hook my MBC up! Can I eliminate any of these lines/sensors and not have to worry about it?

 

[MaxPSITalon]

when i installed mine, i unhooked the bcs, but left it plugged in to avoid a CEL. I put a T in in the vacuum line going to the BOV. Then out of the boost controller directly to the wastegate actuator.

 

[Etalon_Natec]

I plan on installing my Manual boost controller tomorrow its a voodoo ball and spring type. I have read alot of useful information on the forums and have read just about every post on installing mbcs but one person says something definitive and then 3 posts later someone says something completely different. I just want to be sure I do it right. This is how i plan on doing it.

The first drawing is how it currently is. The second is how i plan on doing it.

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[oldman]

1st pic = worst possible way you can hook it up.

2nd pic =

 

[Etalon_Natec]

Awesome, thanks alot.

 

[oldman]

No problem.

 

[bob123131]

what are the cons in the sirst way just so people understand why in the future. I know its wrong, but never found out why.

 

[oldman]

Something I posted earlier.

1. BOV line was previously thought to be better and more accurate because it's the pressure the engine sees when in reality it doesn't matter because boost gauge is already measuring manifold pressure regardless where you reference your MBC.

2. Long route vs short route, increased chance of boost spike.

3. Turbo protection. In a case of developed boost leaks in your intake tract, tapping BOV line will result in turbo spinning out of control while boost gauge till maintains full boost. Where as a compressor source will open wategate sooner while registering pressure drop on your boost gauge.

4. This is the most important one. Tapping your BOV line will result in an opened BOV under WOT because of pressure bleed through the MBC's wastegate pressure relief hole. The situation gets worse when using a bleeder type like the TurboXS units because it's also a vacuum leak which can lead to idle surge as well as compressor surge.

 

[bbray]

what about: wastegate --> mbc --> then to bov line?

 

[dsmdreamin]

yeah i picked up a page off of here for vacuum line delete and it shows wastegate-mbc-bov line? is that not correct?

heres the link

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198327&highlight=taboo

 

[bbray]

Mine is set up just like the 2g "after diagram". Is that the right way to have it?

 

[DJYoshaBYD]

plain and simple, just get the signal for the controller from the compressor tube... its very short route and it wont affect anything bad..

 

[MrBoxx]

what about: wastegate --> mbc --> then to bov line?

yeah i picked up a page off of here for vacuum line delete and it shows wastegate-mbc-bov line? is that not correct?

Mine is set up just like the 2g "after diagram". Is that the right way to have it?

Don't use the BOV line for anything other than connecting the BOV to the intake manifold. There should be NO tees in that line for anything, for the reasons oldman mentioned earlier. The BOV line is the "old" method of hooking up an MBC, and has been found to cause the problems that oldman lists.

The proper, ideal method is: compressor housing/J-pipe nipple --> MBC ---> Wastegate actuator nipple.

 

[bbray]

Well i guess i am on my way to buy some new vacuum hose. THanks for the help.

 

[eboy0]

I want to finally get this right, last time i did it, MBC did nothing.
Went onto RRE and found both of these pictures.
Though they dont seem to be routed the same, which would be best?
Also, I'm trying to run my Greddy Type S lower nipple for anti-surge(i think that's what its called) off the turbo, is this the best place to tap it into, or can I tap into somewhere else?

 

[daren_p]

The second pic would be the one you want to follow, Im not sure exactly what they got going on in the first pic. You want the pressure source after the compressor wheel (usually tap from comp cover, jpipe, lower IC pipe, etc), this runs to the inlet of the MBC then the outlet of the MBC gets connected to the wastegate. Thats all the connections you need.

Now you will need to cap of the nipple on the intake if it has a nipple for the BCS, next you can keep the BCS plugged in electrically but cap of both pressure ports.

If you want to use the lower port on the Greddy (are you sure you tried to adjust it properly first before you do this?) you need a pressure only source. Some say you can just T into the line that is coming from your pressure source & going to the MBC inlet but I have heard others complain with strage issues when they do this. The best way IMO would be to have a second pressure source, this could be anywhere from the comp wheel all the way up to the BOV location. If you've ever noticed or looked a 1g BOV, it has a small hole right beside the valve in the bottom, the hole is for the same purpose as what your trying to do.

 

[bbray]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198327&highlight=taboo
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=257520

 

[Slow 95 TSI]

I ran my MBC from the J-pipe to the waste gate. It works great

Just like this:
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237982

 

[DSM4me44]

Connecting the lower nipple, I think, can make your bov open prematurely. What i did and many evo owners do, is whats called a single spring mod (ssm). Works great. Basically all your doing is opening your bov and taking out the smaller spring and leaving just the large spring.

 

[eboy0]

Connecting the lower nipple, I think, can make your bov open prematurely. What i did and many evo owners do, is whats called a single spring mod (ssm). Works great. Basically all your doing is opening your bov and taking out the smaller spring and leaving just the large spring.

Hmmm, well when I don't connect up the lower nipple, i get the turkey call sounding noise.

 

[DSM4me44]

If you adjust the bov with the single spring mod done, and you still get that turkey flutter, then you have a boost leak, no doubt.