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MBC install [Merged 10-7]

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b00sted99-X

20+ Year Contributor
178
2
Apr 24, 2002

HERE, DAMMIT!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=237982


ok n00b question here.. i got my MBC all hooked up fine (dejon tool.. sweet!) i'm just wondering what to do with the stock boost solenoid hoses.. i took the top one completely off (this is the one that was going to my intake pipe.. then capped that nipple on the pipe) .. the one on the bottom, that tees off and goes to both the wastegate and the turbo housing, is still there. i just bent it backwards and stuck it in the bracket that the top hose was at.. its still connected to the solenoid though. is this alright? can i leave it on there like that will it screw anything up?
 
I seriously doubt that your LICP is thick enough to drill and tap, you will have to weld on the fitting? Why are you affraid of drilling and tapping the compressor housing? Most Garrett compressor housings come tapped.
 
I take it you never bought a 2g install kit matt? The only reason I ask is because those usually come with a pipe thats got a nipple on it.

--edit--

well, I guess I shouldn't say most, but I've seen them in more than one. such as this one from SBR.

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MBC install.
Okay i own a 1g. I know that i hook a line from the wastegate to the side of the mbc. Then i hook a line from the bottom of the mbc to what exactly? I know tapping into the bov line is a no no, and i think from searching i read i either hook it up to a line coming from the compressor housing (i dont see a line there) or do i need drill my aftermarket j-pipe and tap it there and that works? So should there be a line coming from my compressor housing somewhere? I hope this is clear.
 
Okay i think i figured it out. Stock turbos run the line to the j-pipe and upgraded turbos usually have a line going into the compressor?
 
I would suggest that you buy a threaded brass nipple and an O ring to fit the base of it from your nearest hardware store, then drill and tap a hole in your piping someplace relatively close to the compressor outlet. Running off the manifold is not ideal IMHO. If the piping is thin walled get rid of the O ring and either straight-up weld, or at least JB weld after it is threaded in.
 
Agreed. I had to do this when i stepped up to a larger j-pipe. And will have to again when i install my punishment j-pipe for my fmic. It's not hard at all, you just need patience and hope you don't cut too large.
 
Actually I disagree. I would run it off the manifold. It is the most absolute reading that is going into your engine, this the same reason you tap your boost gauge off of these lines. Of course, it's hard to say what line is a good line to tap into. I have a bit of a custom setup so you can't really do what I am doing.
 
Using the nipple on the j pipe is the best. Since I switched, I have had relatively no boost spike. I installed a nipple into my j pipe because it was aftermarket and jb welded it. It holds up and looks amazing.
 
Actually I disagree. I would run it off the manifold. It is the most absolute reading that is going into your engine, this the same reason you tap your boost gauge off of these lines. Of course, it's hard to say what line is a good line to tap into. I have a bit of a custom setup so you can't really do what I am doing.

+1 :thumb:
 
We have had several long threads discussing where to tap in, and why. A majority of people say to run off the compressor housing or j-pipe, as does physics. A smaller vacuum system leads to quicker overall actuation across the system. Many have had boost spike problems when teed into the BOV line. It's just much easier to take the lazy route than to install the proper vacuum fitting, and run off the compressor housing or j-pipe. Tapping in properly will help to preserve your turbo, both avoiding overspin and reducing surge.

Make sure your MBC is hooked up right way 'round (assuming it's a ball-and-spring, and not a bleeder type) or you'll get no boost reference to the wastegate and overboost like crazy. Just keep an eye on your aftermarket boost gauge (you DO have one, right? raising boost without an ACTUAL boost gauge is just plain stupid, given that the in-cluster one is just a guesstimate on the part of the ECU) and if it starts popping over 16-18psi, let off immediately.
 
delta448 said:
I would suggest that you buy a threaded brass nipple and an O ring to fit the base of it from your nearest hardware store, then drill and tap a hole in your piping someplace relatively close to the compressor outlet. Running off the manifold is a bad idea IMHO. If the piping is thin walled get rid of the O ring and either straight-up weld, or at least JB weld after it is threaded in.




Yeah. Here is another thread discussing the same thing.




laserspeeddemon said:
Actually I disagree. I would run it off the manifold. It is the most absolute reading that is going into your engine, this the same reason you tap your boost gauge off of these lines. Of course, it's hard to say what line is a good line to tap into. I have a bit of a custom setup so you can't really do what I am doing.




Not sure if I would agree, under the "normal" circumstances. For most DSMers, that would mean lengthening one or the other lines that feed to/from the MBC (or the lengthening of both). This would presumably delay reaction time; not something most people would be looking for.




Talesin said:
We have had several long threads discussing where to tap in, and why. A majority of people say to run off the compressor housing or j-pipe, as does physics. A smaller vacuum system leads to quicker overall actuation across the system. Many have had boost spike problems when teed into the BOV line. It's just much easier to take the lazy route than to install the proper vacuum fitting, and run off the compressor housing or j-pipe. Tapping in properly will help to preserve your turbo, both avoiding overspin and reducing surge.

Make sure your MBC is hooked up right way 'round (assuming it's a ball-and-spring, and not a bleeder type) or you'll get no boost reference to the wastegate and overboost like crazy. Just keep an eye on your aftermarket boost gauge (you DO have one, right? raising boost without an ACTUAL boost gauge is just plain stupid, given that the in-cluster one is just a guesstimate on the part of the ECU) and if it starts popping over 16-18psi, let off immediately.




Agreed.
 
to be honest i have my mbc tied into my bov and i hold 12psi all the way to redline with no spike or creep, and i i got a full 3in exhaust from turbo back. and i never seen any negitive side affects from it aside from ppl just hating on the ppl that have it done.
 
No one is hating, it's been pretty proven why it's bad. If you choose to run this way thats your prerogative, but after seeing even all the potential problems that could arise, i'm not messing with it. Not to mention i get much better boost readings from the j-pipe.
 
Yeah i will be tapping into the j-pipe. When i bought the car it already had the mbc tapped into the bov line. I do not know what type of mbc i have. Does it matter what type of mbc i use? And yes i have a aftermarket boost gauge.
 
My mbc bleeds air through a small hole in it... does that mean it is a bleeder type? Is there something wrong with these?
 
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