ECMlink MafComp in V3

[DSM_munky_man]

Alright, I went for a cruise to do some cruise tuning and did the mafcomp adjust tool and here is what the suggested template looks like, is this normal looking? looks like it is way off, but that is just me but maybe it needs that?

 

[TurboAnything]

If you are on SD then you are not doing anything anyhow. You have Disable Maf Comp tab checked. You need to tune the VE table for SD changes.

Also if you are tuning with the stock maf and using the maf comp tool you need to log for a long time with tons of different load types.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Not speed density, and for the mafcomp tool for curising I have to be for a long time? how long, i drive 12 miles on the free way to work or like 7 to school and can create different load types? also just remembered about the adjusting open loop threshholds, I need to do that too right?

 

[TurboAnything]

It helps to adjust the open loop thresholds because you will get into closed loop faster and stay there longer. The adjustments it is asking for are very strange is your deadtime and global correct?

 

[gofer]

POST THE LOG!!! Not a screen shot of it... haha.

The software uses a combination of (3) values to determine where the MAFComp slider needs to be for that specific hertz point, calibrating the MAF to get the desired FT's. Those (3) values that the ECU uses to come up with that template are MAFRaw, CombinedFT, & ClosedLoop. All its trying to do is bring your CombinedFT to 0% across every Hz point in your MAFComp settings while your in ClosedLoop operation. Make sense I hope? Thats why you adjust the open loop threshold, so the ECU stays in closed loop longer and you hit the higher Hz values of the MAF.

As an example... Your cars in closed loop mode, your MAFRaw is 50Hz, and your CombinedFT is 10%. The ECU wants CombinedFT's at 0% though so you'll need to increase the 50Hz slider 10% to get CombinedFT to 0%. Instead of you going through your ENTIRE log doing this over the course of a 15 mile drive the MAFComp Adjust tool does this for you automatically! WOW! Don't us DSM'rs with V3 have it made?

 

[DSM_munky_man]

It helps to adjust the open loop thresholds because you will get into closed loop faster and stay there longer. The adjustments it is asking for are very strange is your deadtime and global correct?

Yes global is good and deadtime should be on. The only thing that gets me is that when i drive to work and am on the freeway, I get off and get to work and let it idle to look at stats, well, it will idle bout 200rpm higher for a while and still be in closed loop where the airflowperrev .20 but then FT is like at 20%. then the idle will drop to 850 (where its set) and airflow perrev is spot on, but then it goes into open loop at that same instant so I dont get my FT readings anymore. But if I am just putting around town and come to idle, it idles at the right spot when I come to stop and st ill in closed loop and the readings are spot on with airflowperrev at .24-.25 and FT is from like -7 to +4 which is pretty damn close.

POST THE LOG!!! Not a screen shot of it... haha.

The software uses a combination of (3) values to determine where the MAFComp slider needs to be for that specific hertz point, calibrating the MAF to get the desired FT's. Those (3) values that the ECU uses to come up with that template are MAFRaw, CombinedFT, & ClosedLoop. All its trying to do is bring your CombinedFT to 0% across every Hz point in your MAFComp settings while your in ClosedLoop operation. Make sense I hope? Thats why you adjust the open loop threshold, so the ECU stays in closed loop longer and you hit the higher Hz values of the MAF.

As an example... Your cars in closed loop mode, your MAFRaw is 50Hz, and your CombinedFT is 10%. The ECU wants CombinedFT's at 0% though so you'll need to increase the 50Hz slider 10% to get CombinedFT to 0%. Instead of you going through your ENTIRE log doing this over the course of a 15 mile drive the MAFComp Adjust tool does this for you automatically! WOW! Don't us DSM'rs with V3 have it made?

Ya, makes sense, I will attach the log as well, and it will show the above stated comment about the wierd idle after driving on the freeway, where it idles high and FT is out of whack. But I didnt adjust the threshholds and tried to take it easy so i stayed in closed loop, but still varying the driving a lil to get good readings, but I went into open loop mode a couple times, does that maybe affect it too?

And if the computer wants FT at 0 and so It wants to adjust the mafcomp then what about deadtime, cause from the tutorials on ecmlinks site and from help in my other thread you only adjust mafcomp to get airflowperrev spot on then to get the ft adjusted it is deadtime adjustments, and not to adjust airflow to make of for FT? or am i backwards, wrong or just mistinterperated something?

Here is the log that Was suggesting that screen shot.

 

[TurboAnything]

That tune is way off there are some spots you need 20% less fuel. You need to dial in you idle first. Zero the maf comp table and adjust for .25-.28 Airflowperrev and the bring you deadtime up till your combinedfueltrim is closer to zero.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

I may have nto said this before, there will be times where at idle it will idle a lil high, then drop down to normal idle where everything is fine, I will try and get a log of that as well today. But that log is where it was idling a lil high and arent the readings I actually have at idle for the tune. It is set at .24-.26 for airflow and ft hovers around -3 to +3 ish.

 

[unisonicz]

If you are at normal operating temps then the fans will be cycling on and off which can and will affect logs. Try un-plugging the fans for a few min while you get an idle log.

Kyle

 

[gofer]

I need to see your car idling for at least 60 seconds without touching the throttle, that log you posted doesn't show much of anything except I did notice your coolant temps are awfully low. Are you running your car without a t-stat, your coolant temps never get warm enough to get up to operating temperature. This could be a part of your open loop issue and a 1g ECU won't go into "learn mode" unless coolant temps are above 180* so your LTFT's are never updated.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

here is a 45 second log of idle, messed a lil bit on the deadtime, but went the wrong way then had to quit cause it went into open loop. Maybe this is enough for you to see though? Also 2 screen shots, first is frist cruise log, second is the second cruise log. Which one looks better to use? To me first instinct goes to the second cause it is closer to my current setup.

Log 1 - 1st cruise log
log 2 - idle log
Log 3 - 2nd cruise log

 

[gofer]

You need to check the wiring going to the back of your Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) because it looks like thats the reason why your getting stuck in Open Loop. I say check the wiring because for whatever reason that connector on 1g's is bad, its easily fixed though. If its not the wiring then try to replace the sensor itself. Until you replace the CTS or fix the wiring you won't be able to get a good log since your getting stuck in Open Loop because of it.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

How do you fix the wiring problem? And are my closed loop operations not good enough?

 

[habitatguy187]

You need to check the wiring going to the back of your Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) because it looks like thats the reason why your getting stuck in Open Loop.

The long idle at the end of the log had coolant temps at 200*, that's plenty enough to make the ecu go into closed loop.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Yes and my coolant temps read 180 after i get done driving then warm up to 200 while just sittin.

 

[gofer]

How do you fix the wiring problem? And are my closed loop operations not good enough?

Heres how you'd rewire it if the connector itself is bad or the wiring going to the back of it is frayed, when you inspect it LOOK AT IT VERY CLOSELY.

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The long idle at the end of the log had coolant temps at 200*, that's plenty enough to make the ecu go into closed loop.

Agreed about 200* being plenty warm enough for closed loop operation, but watch the coolant temp throughout the log. It just doesn't appear like the CTS is functioning or getting the ECU a good coolant temp. reading so his FT's are acting funny and even the o2 sensor is only cycling off and on every once in awhile.

This too...

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[DSM_munky_man]

Yes, I have that code, but it is only up sometimes, when it triggers it throws the MIL but it never did during those logs. But I will go in and rewire it, I know that something is up cause upon inspection it has the connector taped up and stuff .

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Replaced the coolant sensar cause it was bad, here is a log and screen shot of what it wants me to do with the mafcomp.

 

[gofer]

Are you running the stock 1g MAF by any chance? I suggest upgrading to a stock 2g MAF and wiring it up, you'll get more consistent airflow readings and your Hz readings won't be all over the place. That log was also done before the car was warmed up completely (180* coolant temp) so things will be a little off because of that as well.

Your DA OpenLoopThresholds look good but the drive to do the MAFComp adjustments wasn't long enough. You'll want to go on a good 15min drive at varying speeds and inclines, if you can find a big hill and keep it at half throttle going up it you'll get a good log for MAFComp.

Until then just copy/paste these changes in MAFComp...

0 43.0
50 39.1
100 36.7
150 35.9
200 36.7
250 39.1
300 39.8
400 37.5
500 34.4
600 32.8
700 30.5
800 28.1
900 25.8
1000 22.7
1100 20.3
1200 18.0
1300 15.6
1400 13.3
1500 11.7
1600 11.7
1700 11.7
1800 11.7
1900 11.7
2000 11.7
2100 11.7
2200 11.7
2300 11.7
2400 11.7
2500 11.7
2600 11.7
2700 11.7
2800 11.7
2900 11.7
3000 11.7
3100 11.7
3200 11.7
3300 11.7
3400 11.7
3500 11.7
3600 11.7​

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Alright, I will get those into my log. Thanks for the help. But i may have a problem, not sure where I can find a big hill here in pheonix to go up. I'll keep an eye out. and I didnt even think aobut be completely warmed up first! I just kew that the car was still pretty warm. Let me see what I can find and I will get back with another log......

 

[laserspeeddemon]

You can simulate going up a big hill by slightly pressing the brake with your left foot. The harder you push the brake, the steeper the (simulated) grade.

 

[DSM_munky_man]

Hmmm, not a bad idea. Wont burn up the brakes too bad right? And how long do i do this? through one gear once, through a couple gears? Just once throughout the 15 min or so log, or just do it a few times throughout in defferent gears?