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Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

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I assume you have two cars?

I just ask because your profile is for a 1g and I would hate to see you buy something that you can't use.

I apologize if this warning isn't necessary.

You can't use this intake manifold, the evo intake manifold is meant for a 2g,because there intake ports are the same,while a 1g intake ports are bigger:D

Um....Port the runners to match :thumb:
 
Um....Port the runners to match :thumb:

You'd be left with almost no flange surface at all and probably a ruined manifold. And what having just the ends of the runners flare out to double size for the last inch or two would do to airflow can't be good.

My RVR manifold should be arriving in a week or two along with a 1g turbo TB, happy birthday to me :rocks:
 
Do the smart thing and install a 2G head on your car.:p
(The ports are the same size as the 2G all the way up to the current evo. sounds to me like it was better than the 1G port.)
 
I'm preparing to install this mani and a 1g TB, but all the screws on my FIAV stripped when I tried to remove them. How did you guys get the FIAV off the 2g TB?
 
I'm preparing to install this mani and a 1g TB, but all the screws on my FIAV stripped when I tried to remove them. How did you guys get the FIAV off the 2g TB?

I used a impact driver (not impact wrench) from harbor freight. It cost about $6 and looks kind of like a screwdriver that you hit with a hammer.

I found it on the lowest area of the screwdriver section.
 
So I gave some measurements earlier in the thread. The ports at the head are 55.5mm x 28mm (or 2.185 inches by 1.1 inches). BTW, if you take a quick measurement with a tape ruler, you may come out with 2 and 1/8 of an inch by 1 and 1/16 of an inch where the ports meet the head (translated as 2.125x1.0625 inches). Now I have some more for you.



We'll start off with the Evo manifold measurements:

Using a long zip tie, and then some solder wire to collaborate my findings, I found the manifold runners to be about 8-to-8.25 inches long. At the mouth of the runners (where the runners meet the plenum) I got a measurement of 2 inches by 2.25 inches.

The 2 inches represent the measurement that is at a right angle to the plenum. I know that may be confusing. Let's say you put your hand in front of the plenum mouth, where the TB attaches. The width of your hand would be the measurement I have just stated.

The 2.25 inches represent the measurement that is parallel to the plenum. Think of it as the air coming into the manifold - that's the direction the measurement was taken.

This means that the runners go from 2x2.25 to 1.1x2.185. Of course the decrease and difference between the two ends of the runners will be slightly different depending on what measurement you decide to use.



Now on to the 2G manifold:

The runners are about 11.5 inches long, same process of measurement used. The mouth of the runners measures 1 and 15/16 of and inch by 1 and 7/8 to 1 and 15/16 of an inch.

The 1 and 15/16 inches represent the same right angle measurement already described.

The 1.875-to-1.9375 inches represent the same measurement that is parallel to the plenum.

This means that the runners go from 1.9375x1.9375 to 1.1x2.185. That means (according to my measurements) that there is an increase in size when taking measurements that are parallel to the plenum! (Again, this also somewhat depends on which measurements you decide to use, but you get the idea.)

If someone can collaborate these measurements for me that would be great. If I get a chance, I'll cut open one of my POS 2G manifolds next week. Not like I'm gonna be using it for anything anyways. If these measurements hold up, then I will really have a good hoot to all those people who do all sorts of port work and gasket match their 2G manifolds as an "improvement". LOL
 
This means that the runners go from 2x2.25 to 1.1x2.185. Of course the decrease and difference between the two ends of the runners will be slightly different depending on what measurement you decide to use.

This is interesting considering the design of the evo8 throttle body that you have (and possibly the evo3? I've never seen someone describe it very much) and its tapering effect. I don't have my manifold near me at the moment but what is the shape of the taper going towards the head? I imagine that the evo manifolds tend to benefit heavily from designs that invoke the Bernoulli principle.

I'm not sure what other conclusions we can draw from that but it is an interesting detail. I would be very interested if anyone knew if valve overlap has similar consequences for an intake charge as it does for exhaust.
This means that the runners go from 1.9375x1.9375 to 1.1x2.185. That means (according to my measurements) that there is an increase in size when taking measurements that are parallel to the plenum! (Again, this also somewhat depends on which measurements you decide to use, but you get the idea.)

Velocity vs. Flow. I wouldn't be terribly surprised here if the regular 2g manifold would actually perform better than the e3 at low rpms with low boost or even vacuum
 
Good observations. EVOIII intake manifold has a couple advantages over the 2g that I can see: plenum maintains constant diameter minimizing flow loss due to sudden expansion, runners have fewer/less extreme bends for less pressure loss, straighter shot into the intake valves, runners are shorter for higher rpm pulse tuning. The casting also is ALOT cleaner than the stock 2g with all its casting flash on the exterior.

I haven't done any low rpm datalogging testing as I'm not interested in that power band but I have noted an earlier torque rise in the midrange. I've devised a test procedure where I go WOT in 3rd gear at 3000 rpms noting the point where the torque would spike hard and could be felt. Before the manifold this would happen around 3750 rpms, after the EVOIII Intake manifold/FP exhaust manifold install this dropped to 3500 rpms.
 
I'm just glad its going to a good guy. The install went well and the car woke up a bit more. Shes definitely coming together. How is everyone else in this thread? Anthony? Derek? Daren?

Dan, it's nice to see that you still frequent this forum. :)

As far as an update goes, I'm not going to be of much help. After I got my E3 mani installed I drove it to a mini meet about an hour away and then came back home. The next day I took it out for a cruise and hit a pothole that destroyed one of my struts. After replacing the struts I took it down to have all the recall work done on it (something I've been meaning to do for a long, LONG time now).

$atan's had it for about 7 weeks now. :notgood: My transfer case was leaking and instead of just sealing it back up, they got the okay to get me a brand new transfer case!! :rocks::rocks: The new case is on back order and "scheduled" to be in on Dec. 25th (Merry Christmas to me!).

Maybe I should stop calling them $atan. :p
 
Oh... after reading back a few pages I'm reminded that I did get a chance to mash on it from a roll against my buddy running a GS-T. He still ended up beating me, but this time by only about a fender (it used to be about a whole car length) before we let off of it as shifting into 5th. It was pretty much neck and neck all the way through 2nd and 3rd. Starting at about 4th is when he started pulling on me.

As a sidenote, we're both running E316g turbo's at 15 psi. His 2g GS-T has a lot more work done to it though (ie. FMIC, AFPR, 255L fuel pump, 3" turbo back exhaust, and he's running a rebuilt stock 6 bolt block). Since he' was still running his stock injectors at the time without any tuning equipment, I doubt his fuel mods helped out that much, if at all. The FMIC and being 2WD is probably what gives him the biggest advantage.
 
Yes his GST has less parasytic loss, but dont forget that the GSTs have taller gears than we do. A stock GST will almost always be faster than a stock GSX.
(untill you get to the rev limiter of course)
 
Got my RVR manifold a couple days ago. Immediately set to work porting the plenum throat to 61mm and gasket matching the runners. Then made some brackets for the coil pack.

Modifying the 2g coil pack was not a big deal at all. You just flip it over, make 2 brackets, and its done. There's even screw holes on the bottom of the coil pack bracket to attach the igniter to.

Still confused about what to do with the EGR
 

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Agreed. Just block it off or remove it along with the rest of your EVAP stuff. Are you worried about emissions?

No I was just reading the write up sd_ff22 did, and was confused by how he rigged it. I guess I can just run without the EGR hooked up at all. I'm just confused about emissions removal in general, but I can figure it out through research
 
No I was just reading the write up sd_ff22 did, and was confused by how he rigged it. I guess I can just run without the EGR hooked up at all. I'm just confused about emissions removal in general, but I can figure it out through research

I don't think anyone on here has installed the EGR setup, I believe Dan just kept all the electrical connections there, so no CEL's. Thats what I did as well, I was going to fab up a custom EGR setup this spring so the car would pass emissions but now that I'm going awd it won't be needed.

For the coil packs, what about reversing the wires? Sounds like you flipped the coils to mount up but the wiring doesn't get flipped, so I think it may change your firing order? I know when I did mine, I had the evoIII coil brackets, so just swapped my 2g coils but then changed the wiring so that it matched my buddies complete evoIII coil/bracket.
 
For the coil packs, what about reversing the wires? Sounds like you flipped the coils to mount up but the wiring doesn't get flipped, so I think it may change your firing order? I know when I did mine, I had the evoIII coil brackets, so just swapped my 2g coils but then changed the wiring so that it matched my buddies complete evoIII coil/bracket.

The coils are in the same position they were in on the stock manifold. I took the coils off their bracket, flipped the bracket upside down, and put them in the underside. They're in the same order.
 
Deflater, I'm not sure if you read through the section where I did my install, but you can get a much cleaner look if you move your coil pack plug and your ignitor. Not that you have to, but I moved my ignitor to the underside of the mani and bolted it to one of the holes used for the rear brace. For the coil back plug I just detached it from the coil pack bracket and connected to the wiring harness on the drivers side of the mani. IMO, it looks MUCH cleaner this way.
 
Deflater, I'm not sure if you read through the section where I did my install, but you can get a much cleaner look if you move your coil pack plug and your ignitor. Not that you have to, but I moved my ignitor to the underside of the mani and bolted it to one of the holes used for the rear brace. For the coil back plug I just detached it from the coil pack bracket and connected to the wiring harness on the drivers side of the mani. IMO, it looks MUCH cleaner this way.

Your bracket is what inspired mine, but I didn't see that you moved the plugs out of sight. Sounds like a good idea to me. Honestly, I had forgotten the igniter and was just lucky there was a place to bolt it on :coy:

So people have not had a problem not running a manifold brace?
 
Your bracket is what inspired mine, but I didn't see that you moved the plugs out of sight. Sounds like a good idea to me. Honestly, I had forgotten the igniter and was just lucky there was a place to bolt it on :coy:

So people have not had a problem not running a manifold brace?

I didn't mean to insinuate the coil's themselves would be out of sight, just everything else associated with them (the plug, the igniter, the capacitor and pretty much the entire wiring harness itself).
 
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