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Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

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Derek, you probably don't need to lengthen the harness for the TPS. When I was installing mine the harness was too short for the TPS like you say & was pretty tight to try & reach the #4 injector. The problem isn't with the factory wire length but with how its wrapped in the wire loom. It's wrapped past the location of the connector it joins too & then ends up being too short. What I did was carefully cut back the loom to allow the wires for the TPS & the injector to exit from the loom more inline with their respective connection (ie closer to the passenger side of the car). Once I had the proper length I then cut a notch out of the main loom for the wires to come from, retaped everything like factory, installed loom back on all the exposed wires & again taped up like factory. Once done everything looked just as factory & had the proper length needed, without adding any actual length to the wires themselves.
 
daren_p said:
Derek, you probably don't need to lengthen the harness for the TPS. When I was installing mine the harness was too short for the TPS like you say & was pretty tight to try & reach the #4 injector. The problem isn't with the factory wire length but with how its wrapped in the wire loom. It's wrapped past the location of the connector it joins too & then ends up being too short. What I did was carefully cut back the loom to allow the wires for the TPS & the injector to exit from the loom more inline with their respective connection (ie closer to the passenger side of the car). Once I had the proper length I then cut a notch out of the main loom for the wires to come from, retaped everything like factory, installed loom back on all the exposed wires & again taped up like factory. Once done everything looked just as factory & had the proper length needed, without adding any actual length to the wires themselves.
Click to expand...

Yea, i remember reading that's what you did on your install. I figured that when I finally got a chance to finish the job, that I'd try to make that work. It makes sense and I'm sure that I won't actually end up having to "lengthen" any wires. Thanks!

the_mork said:
Does anyone have any before and after numbers yet? I've been watching this thread for a while and hoping some would come up but no luck so far. HP numbers would be great but airflow would be enough.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure that Dan was the only one that had his car dyno'd before the install... but, getting results from his car now are going to prove to be difficult. :(
 
the_mork said:
Does anyone have any before and after numbers yet? I've been watching this thread for a while and hoping some would come up but no luck so far. HP numbers would be great but airflow would be enough.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure I posted my findings previously in this thread, airflow values & I believe hp estimates from DSMLink. I forget the specifics (would have to go back through this thread or look at the logs) but I do remember it pushed the area where my airflow starts to go flat, higher up in the rpm scale. Think it was something like 300-400rpms higher.

While I don't have any previous dyno numbers, I did just recently go to the dyno just to see what the car sits at in current street tune. I did nothing to the tune (actually hadn't looked at the tune in about 1.5 months when I went to the dyno), I just did a few pulls the way the car sits & those where the results. I think their pretty nice curves considering I still run a CAT (3" HF), stock 2g head (as far as flow concerned) other then cams, which mine are designed for mid range power. All in all, I was happy with the results :thumb:
 
Got some new EVO-9 wheels.

They came with an EVO-9 attached.
So after my car came back as a total loss, and not being able to find another comparable GSX(white,99, black interior, unmodded) I decided that the best thing for me in the long run was to buy a much newer car.
This is an 06 EVO9 with 19k miles(100k mile warranty). She dynoed at 326awhp on a 95* day!
I only ended up financing $19k after using the eclipse as a down. All I can say is HOLY HELL. As much as I loved my GSX, what I was trying to do was make it as much evo3 as I could. since that's not going to play out this is the best for me. It has all the tasteful Mods that I would have done to it anyway, as well as a few nice additions, such as in dash touch screen DVD and navigation with a hard drive! An apexi active silencer(can't say enough good things about this piece.)
The first mod I've done is an ARC titanium heat shield.

Over all this car is solid and VERY impressive.:sneaky:
 

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First thing's first... does anybody know the size of the banjo bolt used for the EVO mani's EGR port? I finished my install, but forgot to get a bolt to seal up the EGR port on the manifold.

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Secondly, as stated above, I finished the manifold install. I want to say thanks to everyone involved in making this thread as informative as it has been. I probably would have never even attempted this install if it weren't for the great advice given here. One thing that I would stress is that dropping the DP is definitely the way to go when removing and installing the intake manifold. It also helps to have a buddy working the top while you work from underneath. Here's a look at the final outcome (sorry for the crappy pic).
 

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I actually just bought one more or less on accident. I submitted a bid in a hurry that had an extra 0 in it so I got it for ~$150 instead of the $80 that I had meant to cap my bid at, I'm just glad no one had richer blood than that.

What are they really worth anyways?

Edit: From what I can tell its actually an RVR manifold but I can spend a little time to port it. I don't have the heart to tell the kid I'm buying it from that he didn't get a "JDM eclipse motor"
 
Update: I found the correct bolt size that fits into the EVO 3 manifold. It's an M16 - Fine Thread - 1.50 Pitch. The shortest one that I could find was 30mm, but you really only need about 10 or 15mm. I just put 5 flat washers to fill up the dead space and then used Black RTV Sealant on the threads when I screwed it in. You could cut the bolt to size if you wanted to.

Depending on your local hardware store, it may be difficult to find the right size bolt with the correct thread pattern as a search of both Home Depot, Lowe's, and 2 other local hardware store come up with nothing. I ended up having to go to a bolt and screw specialty shop (they supply manufacturing companies with hardware and tools) to find the correct bolt.

I wanted to post this information for anyone else that will need to block off their EVO 3 mani's EGR port.

As for the new manifold, it's hard for me to tell if it pulls any harder. Of course, I didn't install the new TB yet either. I'm still running the stock 52mm 2g TB. I'm going to wait to install the EVO TB until I get my FMIC and piping, as the EVO TB can't be connected to the 2g elbow. I'll have to wait and see how it does against my buddy's GST who has similar mods but, being FWD, he always takes on the top end going from a roll.
 
I ultra gray'd the stock "banjo" bolt in the hole

Considering it has no hole in it, it should hold fine.

Will know when I boost leak test it.
 
Take a look at this. This possibly hand ported and what looks like extrude honed "stock" EVO (newer gen) intake manifold made more power than ALL the current sheetmetal manifolds on the market (magnus, hks, etc.). Pretty scary. Looks like at most the runner walls were possibly cutout down internally. Price is nuts though, $1500 bucksWTF.

Intake manifold dyno tests and facts only. - Page 2 - Buschur Forums

Comparing pics of a stock EVO manifold to this modified one, it looks like they increased the plenum volume by 50% just by cutting down the internal runner walls dividers. Which also effectively shortens the runners. Pretty sneaky mod.
 
So my RVR manifold finally arrived and I have a few questions.

First of all I was surprised to find that there was a fuel rail and injectors in the box. Does anyone know if the fuel rail is the same as a 2g rail or would it be an upgrade or just largely incompatible? Also is there any chance that the injectors are not 450s? They appear to have black tops with tan upper o-rings so I'm assuming they are 450s.

I recieved a coil pack bracket with two coil packs but one of the coil packs is broken, will my coil packs fit into the bracket?

I also have a RVR throttle body, is there any use or value in these? Obviously they aren't going to fit in an eclipse but are any of the sensors or parts compatible? I know the shaft screws are since I needed them for my 1g tb that I'm rebuilding.

Lastly the manifold is pretty dirty and I don't have a parts cleaner big enough, if I take it to the machine shop and I want it to be nice and pretty do I just ask them to hot tank it or should I just ask them to clean it in whatever way they think is best (since I don't really know what hot tanking is)?

Should I port it now or after it gets cleaned or does it not really matter?
 
Anybody got a the EVO throttlebody laying around? I'd be willing to buy it off somebody.
 
the_mork said:
So my RVR manifold finally arrived and I have a few questions.

First of all I was surprised to find that there was a fuel rail and injectors in the box. Does anyone know if the fuel rail is the same as a 2g rail or would it be an upgrade or just largely incompatible? Also is there any chance that the injectors are not 450s? They appear to have black tops with tan upper o-rings so I'm assuming they are 450s.

I recieved a coil pack bracket with two coil packs but one of the coil packs is broken, will my coil packs fit into the bracket?

I also have a RVR throttle body, is there any use or value in these? Obviously they aren't going to fit in an eclipse but are any of the sensors or parts compatible? I know the shaft screws are since I needed them for my 1g tb that I'm rebuilding.

Lastly the manifold is pretty dirty and I don't have a parts cleaner big enough, if I take it to the machine shop and I want it to be nice and pretty do I just ask them to hot tank it or should I just ask them to clean it in whatever way they think is best (since I don't really know what hot tanking is)?

Should I port it now or after it gets cleaned or does it not really matter?
Click to expand...

As I posted above, yes our stock coils will bolt to the evoIII/RVR bracket without any issues. Though our coil wiring is different, becuase the coil packs mount in the opposite orientation vs the stocker. You just have to swap a couple wires at the coils. If you can't figure out how to do this, I posted all the specifics when I did this, probably a couple pages up.

For cleaning it up, hot tank will help but if its corroded like most I've seen, take it to somewhere that can bead blast it. The best option would be to port it first then have it hot tanked & bead blasted.
 
pboglio said:
Take a look at this. This possibly hand ported and what looks like extrude honed "stock" EVO (newer gen) intake manifold made more power than ALL the current sheetmetal manifolds on the market (magnus, hks, etc.). Pretty scary. Looks like at most the runner walls were possibly cutout down internally. Price is nuts though, $1500 bucksWTF.

Intake manifold dyno tests and facts only. - Page 2 - Buschur Forums

Comparing pics of a stock EVO manifold to this modified one, it looks like they increased the plenum volume by 50% just by cutting down the internal runner walls dividers. Which also effectively shortens the runners. Pretty sneaky mod.
Click to expand...


Wow, thats pretty impressive/interesting resaults. I would think similar work could be performed on our mani's, they do seem pretty similar to the later gen Evo's. I would defently look into getting work like that done if it were say around the cost of a SMIM but for $1500 OMG . An intake mani that looks stock & flows just as good as a SMIM, can't beat that :thumb:
 
Lets try and stop making the "Hey I want to buy..." or "Does anyone have..." comments. This is a pretty good thread, and it would be a shame for it to be closed because some people can't keep these kinds of posts to either PMs or the Classifieds sections, or even their local forums. Not only that, but those kinds of posts have nothing to do with the discussion(s), pull us off track of the thread topic, and take up more space than necessary. Thanks.
 
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