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Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

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Okay.... so I've started to remove all my emissions vacuum hoses (no emissions testing here :thumb:) and the 2g IM so that I can FINALLY install my EVO3 mani. It's been a while since I've even gotten on this website and I just spent the last 1/2 hour going over the past 3 pages of this thread. A couple basic question that I have would be since I won't be keeping the EGR, do I need to get a block off plate, or will the 2g EGR bolt up to the EVO3 mani and I could just leave it disconnected?
 
I just used my FFWD block off plate, slapped on some RTV sealant, and ziptied the valve to the firewall.
 
Just noticed this thread. Anyone know if this would be an upgrade for a 1g or not? Would be nice to have a manifold like this that's cheap and still give some good power. But wondering if the runners and all are smaller than the 1g's.
 
:cry:
i think any of us would have done the same thing after an accident like that... it hurts to see an awesome car like that go, especially when its yours. hey, if they total it and you want to get her back to working form again you got my number. if not, well, let us know so we can get all the good stuff off of her before the junkyard takes it! (like the black on black interior that would nicely replace my tan) if you need help with anything (like a ride) just call, ill come up the 5 to help ya out man...
if you don't have plans for the weekend and your not busy i could use someone that knows what they're doing on this bastardized 16g install saturday/sunday? (ill come pick you up)
glad to see that your ok, and honestly, better the car than you! take care and let me know if you need anything.

:dsm:
 
I'm still reading thru the tons of freakin pages but would sure be nice to see a picture of the Evo mani compared to a 1g mani. Wondering if anyone has installed one on a 1g with good results. I see the runners are shorter but that the ports are about the same as a 2g I think. Wondering how a shorter runner but smaller port would perform on a 1g. Better or worse.
 
It would not work, the runners are way smaller than a 1g head...The evo 3 mani or 2g mani probably wouldn't even cover the intake ports all the way!
 
Thanks for answering this again, Rich... this is ONLY a mod for cars with the 2g head installed. I answered it earlier, but my post got moved over to Dan's GSX funeral thread.

If anyone is interested in doing this mod... then it would be VERY wise of you to read this thread from the begining. I know it's long, but you'll have a complete understanding of what's going on with this manifold AND what to look for.
 
So, I got some good news and some bad news. Bad news is that I lost my job, so right now I'm living off of a very tight fixed income. Good news... I've got all kinds of time to work on the DSM!! So, I've started to take my OEM mani off and have started getting my E3 mani ready to be installed (I was planning on having it bead blasted and looking new, but I might have to skip on that). To this day, I still cannot find an E3 Coil Pack, and with the current lack of income, purchasing one would not make sense. So, I took my 2g Coil Pack to a friend of mine and had him alter my stock coil pack bracket to fit the E3 manifold. Just thought I'd show off the custom bracket, especially since everyone else has posted how it's not possible to mount the 2g coil pack onto the E3 mani. (I'll be relocating the coil pack plug that is shown in the picture to the lower mounting point).
 

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Derek,
didn't say it couldn't be done, Just that there was no easy way to mount the stock coil pack. sorry I haven't been around In a while guys... you know whats going on...
 
So those with the EVO3 version with the extra nipple on the end of the plenum, what are you using that nipple for? Or how are you blocking it off?

Thanks
 
I use it for a little late-night roadhead action every now and again.

Derek, IDK why you didn't just bolt on the coil pack to the engine bay and call it a day.
 
DSMunknown said:
Due to time constraints and (expected) weather conditions, I was only able to uninstall the 2G manifold. However, I have some suggestions for removing the manifold without pulling your hair out.

I HIGHLY recommend jacking the car up, dropping the downpipe, and taking the starter out to reach the four hard-to-reach bolts at the bottom of the manifold/head. I replaced my starter back last fall, and knew ahead of time it was a cinch. But I had somewhat forgotten how much room there was behind the block with the DP and starter out of the way. There is TONS of room for your greasy little hands when removing these two things. This especially goes for those of us who are under 5'6" or have thin arms or small hands. It was an absolute breeze to take off those four pesky bolts at the bottom when going from underneath. :)

Other than that I don't have much to add. ;)
Click to expand...

How DO you take the starter off? Also, I'm assuming that when underneath the car, the starter is that thing opposite of the A/C compressor on the passenger side of the block. I only get about a 1/2 an hour every 3 days to work on this thing and so far, have the DP dropped and the rear brace removed. My next task is just unbolting all the manifold bolts.
 
Thanks Snowborder. Anthony mentioned that he removed it when it was doing his uninstall/install so I thought that I'd have to too. I ended up not needing too, but I did take the opportunity to remove my A/C compressor.

Here's pics of the freshly mounted EVO 3 Manifold along with a picture of something that I'm not sure if I need. What is this part for? Is it emissions related and if so, do I need to keep it plugged in (I removed my emissions while I was doing the install)? Does it need to be grounded? The main reason I'm asking these questions and not just mounting it somewhere onto the EVO mani is because the wire for it is barely holding on.

NOTE: In case there's any confusion, this part is off of the OEM 95 intake manifold.
 

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It needs to be grounded, preferably close to the coil pack. I would try to fix the wire if you can. If not, you may be able to pick up one for cheap from a junked car.

The noise condensor suppresses high frequency spikes which helps all electronics - the radio being the most suspectable. I'd leave it in - needs to be connected right at the coil connector to be effective.
Click to expand...
 
DSMunknown said:
I use it for a little late-night roadhead action every now and again.

Derek, IDK why you didn't just bolt on the coil pack to the engine bay and call it a day.
Click to expand...

LOL that's a pretty small tube/hose ya kno

But.. I could use one for my boost gauge, but that leaves either the endmost nipple open or the P port. I'd hate to use vacuum caps :notgood:
 
Here's some updated pics of the progress I've made. Like I mentioned before, I don't get a whole lot of time to work on this, so there's not a ton of progress made. I'm trying to do a wire tuck while I've got everything apart and trying to figure out where to mount all the plugs, transistors, and everything else has been a bit time consuming. I'm planning on mounting the power transistor to one of the empty mounting points on the IM for the rear brace. Plus, I'll probably have to lengthen a couple wires for the TPS sensor plug to reach the TPS. Any thoughts or feedback would be appreciated.

STILL NEED TO INSTALL THE FUEL RAIL...
87275d1221286475-attempted-wire-tuck-today-wire-tuck-c.jpg


POWER TRANSISTOR -SOON TO BE- MOUNTING POINT...
87276d1221286475-attempted-wire-tuck-today-wire-tuck-b.jpg


COIL PACK, GROUNDING STRAPS AND OTHER ODDS AND ENDS...
87277d1221286475-attempted-wire-tuck-today-wire-tuck-.jpg
 
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