Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

[daren_p]

Defently interested in the airflow comparison Dan.

With any luck I should be up & running with my evoIII mani next week. I was able to source both the evoIII brackets for the coil packs & for the transistor. I used my 2g coils, which appear to be identical to the evoIII coils except the wiring is different. You can pop the protective caps off & the wires are bolted to the bottom of the coils. You need to swap the wires both from top to bottom & also swap the blue wires from left to right, for the 2g coils to match the evoIII coils. The ring connectors & posts are slightly different sized from top to bottom, so you have to enlarge the ends on the blue wires abit to fit. I installed an addition barb in the front side of the plenum towards the mani inlet, beside the barb thats there for the BOV. This way the solinoid thats mounted on the drivers side of the 2g mani (would imagine its part of the EGR system?) would have its own source, just like it does in the 2g setup. I hooked everything up like 2g factory except didn't take time to complete the EGR system (didn't want to wait to get the car on the road any longer) but I did physically mount the EGR & hook up the vacuum lines. Also didn't install the MDP sensor (though have the fitting from JM Fab to do so). I had to modify the harness to lengthen the leads for the TPS, transistor pack & #4 fuel injector. Another thing to note is the evoIII brace I have did bolt right up.

Now I did have a friends evoIII coil pack to compare to the 2g pack before I received these parts as I origionally was just going to modify the stockers (since I had a hard time finding the evo versions) & I believe both stockers can be modded to work. For the coil pack it will take a good amount of cutting & removing tabs, but it should be able to be done & I believe there is a spot that will work to bolt the stock transistor right up.

 

[97gstjosh]

Does anyone one know of any EvoIII intake manifolds and TBs for sale

 

[white97gst]

I didn't know you were still looking man. I just sold a 60mm Evo TB on ebay last week for $69 shipped. I linked to it on here (just a few posts up) hoping to help one of you guys out. It sold pretty damn quick though. DSMunkown bought my 52mm manifold a month ago for $105 shipped on ebay. It was also linked to on page 10. (I threw the 52mm tb in the trash after I pulled the sensors.)

I've currently got 2 60mm Evo Manifolds with Coil Packs and I've got 1 more 60mm EVO TB. I'm definently keeping 1 complete setup but might be inclined to sell the other 60mm manifold and/or coil pack if the offer is good enough.

I've been thinking about selling a coil pack by itself since several people here need just that. Having direct port setup on one of the EVO manifolds is another thing on my mind. I haven't really decided what I want to do, so I hadn't mentioned it before now. You can PM me if you want.

Update: Josh bought my extra manifold and coil pack. Sorry to those who PMed me, but it's gone.

 

[sd_ff22]

I'm sorry guys.
I know that you're waiting for numbers and dyno results.
I am in finals this week and next week, and then hopefully I can make some things happen. I'll let you all know soon.

 

[DSMunknown]

If weather permits I'll be installing mine tomorrow.

 

[DSMunknown]

Due to time constraints and (expected) weather conditions, I was only able to uninstall the 2G manifold. However, I have some suggestions for removing the manifold without pulling your hair out.

I HIGHLY recommend jacking the car up, dropping the downpipe, and taking the starter out to reach the four hard-to-reach bolts at the bottom of the manifold/head. I replaced my starter back last fall, and knew ahead of time it was a cinch. But I had somewhat forgotten how much room there was behind the block with the DP and starter out of the way. There is TONS of room for your greasy little hands when removing these two things. This especially goes for those of us who are under 5'6" or have thin arms or small hands. It was an absolute breeze to take off those four pesky bolts at the bottom when going from underneath.

Other than that I don't have much to add.

 

[97gstjosh]

Just got my EvoIII IM a couple days ago with the coil pack!!!!! THANKS White97gst

 

[white97gst]

No problem. I'm glad I could still help you out. I just picked up a valve cover with the Mitsu symbol and lettering up top. I plan to send my evo mani, bracket, and the valve cover off to get powdercoated soon. I'll post up pics when I get them back. It should be a nice looking setup for my new motor when it goes in.

 

[daren_p]

I have no before/after dyno info but thought I'd post what I saw as far as airflow goes with the stock 2g IM vs the evoIII. Now I have FP1X cams, so keep in mind their not designed for "top end power". Pre intake mani my DSMLink logs would show airflow going flat basically right around the 6300-6400 mark. With the evoIII mani, I saw better top end flow as my airflow would continue to increase till right around the 6800rpm mark.

Now I also recently removed my Apexi N1 system & swapped it for a stock looking system that was still 3" all the way, including the resonators. Turns out the Apex'i has a good amount of restriction in it. While the muffler is high flowing (probably 3.5"+ straight through), the resonator necks down to something like 2". With the new exhaust I saw a 2psi jump in boost with no adjustments to my AVC-R, 200-300 rpms quicker spool & also alot more top end power. My airflow logs now don't start to flaten out till the 7100-7200 range. So not sure if the stock IM would have seen abit better top end flow with the new exhaust, or if it was still the limiting factor. Either way, I'm currently really happy with the setup. I have actually bounced off the 7500 limiter in 3rd a few times as the car still pulls hard where as before, when I brought it to 7000, it felt like I was "reaching" to get that high as power was dropping off after 6500. With the IM & exhaust, I've gained right around 50 whp & ft/lbs at the 7000rpm mark taken from DSMLink, with logs done on the exact same stretch of road in similar conditions (actually slightly better, ie cooler conditions with the older logs).

Not completely finished (or cleaned) but here are the last install pics I took (have to get some recent ones still):

 

[97gstjosh]

Man I cant wait to put mine on
Nice job man. Im just waiting for my Hondata gasket and my 1g N/T throttle body
to get back from Steve and Im set to go. What did you use to block
Your air filter off with? Just curious.

 

[turbosax2]

Daren, can you please post the before/after dsmlink logs?

 

[daren_p]

Here are a few recent logs I posted on the DSMLink forums, I was just playing with some settings on my AVC-R. Boost was logged with a AVCR 4 bar & is around the 24psi range. I don't have any other logs with me, so I'll have to get them off my laptop, when I get a chance.

The heatshield was just fabbed up from some galvanized steel (I believe) that I picked up from the local hardware store. To seal it to the hood, I just used some small diameter rubber hose & cut it down the middle to fit over the metal. I'd like to pick up some actual weather stripping to do this (whenever I remember )

 

[white97gst]

Daren - Are those 2G Magnecor wires? If so, that is promising. I have 2 sets and hoped I didn't need something new for the install. It's good to know that Link shows obvious gains. Hopefully by the end of summer I'll have my new motor in and be up and running. Thanks.

 

[daren_p]

Daren - Are those 2G Magnecor wires? If so, that is promising. I have 2 sets and hoped I didn't need something new for the install. It's good to know that Link shows obvious gains. Hopefully by the end of summer I'll have my new motor in and be up and running. Thanks.

Yes those are 2g Magnecor wires & I was able to get them to fit but just barely. I had to change the normal routing under the spark plug cover to allow as much length as possible & had to ditch the wire seperator that holds the wires when they exit the spark plug cover. So all the wires are sort of bunched up towards the oil cap side of the cover. So not the best fit but it is possible. The Magnecor's seem to be just barely long enough even for the stock setup, so I think basically all other aftermarket wires shouldn't be an issue with this setup as they all tend to be slightly longer, from what I've seen.

 

[romeen]

Awesome results.

Do you have any before/after logs involving just the IM or exhaust upgrade? If both changes were done at the same time I wonder how much of the performance improvement is from one vs the other. Exhaust probably made the biggest difference but it would be nice to be able to determine the results of each one by itself.

Are you using one of the RRE DP's that is 2.5" pre-flex and 3" after?

BTW, engine looks great. Very clean.

The heatshield was just fabbed up from some galvanized steel (I believe) that I picked up from the local hardware store. To seal it to the hood, I just used some small diameter rubber hose & cut it down the middle to fit over the metal. I'd like to pick up some actual weather stripping to do this (whenever I remember )

For my heatshield I went to a junkyard and pulled the weatherstripping from the hatch of a 1G. It's has a nice thick cushion and just presses right on.

 

[daren_p]

Yes do have some logs saved from this spring with just the IM, have to look around to see if I have any descent ones saved from last year showing pre IM, with similar boost settings. Though probably most (3rd pulls) are with less boost but atleast you will be able to compare airflow curves as far as where they start to flaten out.

Yes, RRE's DP with 2.5" inlet to 3" out.

The engines actually very dirty compared to normal. Has a full summers worth of dirt in there as I didn't get to clean it up last fall like normal. Only spots that looks abit clean are the pieces that I had to remove/work on when doing the upgrades this spring

 

[romeen]

The engines actually very dirty compared to normal. Has a full summers worth of dirt in there as I didn't get to clean it up last fall like normal. Only spots that looks abit clean are the pieces that I had to remove/work on when doing the upgrades this spring

Actually I meant clean in more of a figurative sense. As in the engine doesn't look all hacked up and sloppily put together. All parts look quality too.

But I don't see much dirt either. OCD can be a bi***.

 

[DSMunknown]

Finally got the car started today after 2 months of (intentionally) sitting.

But I didn't go without snags (of course). Car wouldn't start yesterday. I asked Romeen about priming the engine for fuel and coolant. He informed me that removing the 20A fuse (labelled as "Engine" fuse) in the fuse box would prime the motor. Turned the motor over several times to push everything along.

Put the fuse back on and crossed my fingers. Hopefully this bi*** would start after sitting around and getting all the goodies bolted on and simple maintenance. Nothing. Tried several times but still no dice. Confirmed fuel. Decided to sleep on it. Went out this morning and tried again. Still nothing. Checked the spark plugs. Thought they were getting flooded due to priming. They were a little wet, but nothing major. Took the torch and dried the tips up. Plugged them back in and tried again. Nada. Confirmed spark.

So I knew these three things: had spark, fuel, and never touched the timing. I was stumped. Asked 95GSXracer for some help. He suggested it was probably something minor due to the modifications, or possibly the CAS shitting on me. Car was stumbling and coughing everywhere, but wouldn't get over the hill. It would also backfire occassionally. So I tried crossing 3&4. Almost started, but still weezing. Put them back and crossed 1&2, with the same results. Decided to cross both 1&2 and 3&4 to see what would happen. As luck would have it, it fired right up.

So now instead of the normal firing order of 4-1-2-3 it is now 3-2-1-4. As you can see, it's the complete opposite order. Very strange (or so I thought).

The problem was I didn't know why. So I asked Dan to call me. Didn't remember him posting anything about crossing the wires, but he did do the install successfully before me. He looked at the coil pack pictures I posted up, and compared them to his own. Guess my coil wiring is backwards from his, and this accounts for the different firing order. All I have to do to "officially" fix this is switch the wiring in the bottom of the coils around, but other than that it runs fine.

Thought people should know.

 

[DSMunknown]

I went for a 1.5 hour drive today.
Got no CELs, no idle issues and when I Got back to work I popped my hood to feel the intake manifold.
I could full hand grab the top of it and it was barely warm! Thats even with a non vented stock hood and everything else underthere was hot as hell! I don't know if it helps with power, but that hondata heat shield sure does isolate the intake manifold from conducted heat!!

Let the car idle for a few minutes to burn off Engine Brite, check for leaks, adjust the BISS screw, check vacuum, check fuel pressure, get all the coolant and oil flowing, and to make sure everything was hunky dory. Did this four or five times over several hours.

I did not find your statement to be true for me. The IM is still hot to the touch in my case, and from what I remember it feels about the same as when the 2G IM was in with the normal OEM gasket. Hood was up the entire time. Will post back if anything changes.

I have another (very minor) bone to pick with the Hondata gasket, but will wait till later.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I did not find your statement to be true for me. The IM is still hot to the touch in my case, and from what I remember it feels about the same as when the 2G IM was in with the normal OEM gasket. Hood was up the entire time. Will post back if anything changes.

I have another (very minor) bone to pick with the Hondata gasket, but will wait till later.

So, the $45 for the Hondata gasket isn't worth it... in your opinion?

 

[DSMunknown]

Let me do some more testing before drawing any solid conclusions.

 

[sd_ff22]

What I did was go from driving, to pulled over then popped the hood and felt the intake manifold. It may have been because cooler air was just flowing through it, or because air was circulating around it, but I also notice that it heats up just sitting there through convection. I say it does its job of stopping conducted heat, but I can't prove anything till I get back to RRE.

 

[kawboy]

Figured I'd let everyone know that I actually own a EVOIII swap and the EVOIII mani's do come with a EGR Setup, extra nipple, and a 60mm TB.

My TB also has EV3 etched onto it.

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Sorry for camera phone pics

Now onto figuring out how to change my UICP to mount to this...

 

[DSMunknown]

^More pix of everything.

So I did some more testing today. Did a few pulls on the highway, and then came off and felt the manifold. It was still very, very warm. Wouldn't burn my fingers instantaneously, but if I left mine there they probably would have.

Also blew Tiny Tim within the first five minutes of actual driving. Before the TB/IM install, boost was set at 15-16PSI. I had to turn down my MBC at least a full half turn to get it back to safe boosting levels. Wouldn't be surprised if I actually turned it down more than that (possibly a full 360* turn).

 

[kawboy]

It's dark right now, but these are some pics that I've had (Again, camera phone)

E3 on back of waterpipe

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Turbo

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