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Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

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Okay, if the MDP sensor's purpose is to check the function of the EGR valve, and the EVOIII manifold doesn't even have provisions for an EGR valve, wouldn't it throw an EGR malfunction code by plugging in the MDP sensor when using an EVO intake? I have an EVO manifold just sitting around that already has an MDP bung welded on. When I switch back to a 2g head I was planning on using the evo manifold and I was just curious as to whether I should use the MDP sensor or just keep it nplugged.
 
I left my MDP sensor unplugged. I dont have a CEL but it does pull a code for it on the logger.

Sounds great, it beats spending $35.

Okay, if the MDP sensor's purpose is to check the function of the EGR valve,...

This was some information that I wanted in another thread that never got resolved. In this case I just took the lines that went to the EGR valve and looped them, is there a better way to do this? I certainly wouldn't mind cutting out some extra vacuum lines.
 
Has anyone tried this manifold with the jmf coil bracket? I have the coil bracket just sitting in the garage because it was given to me for free and it wont work with the stock manifold, so does anyone know if it will work witht this manifold because of the shorter runners?
 
Yea, the guy I bought my manifold from used that bracket. He is in this topic, he will proablly chime in, I forget his name! I can show you my bracket in the next couple days if you not in a hurry, It mounts them on the fire wall.
 
So Im trying to follow exactly what sd_ff22 did to get rid of his EGR valve but without having the CEL light on. Ive been looking at the way he routed his vaccuum lines on his pics on post 277+ for a good solid hour and Im still somewhat confused as to how he routed them.

Im not sure where the blue vaccuum lines go or what he did with the MDP sensor. Maybe Im just not looking hard enough but can somebody (or even himslef) explain in detail all the vaccuum lines and their destination. Ive been waiting for the day to install my E3 and that day has finally come.

Thanks a lot guys.
 
I am running an evo8 ecu but I believe that the egr check is very similar. I left all of my vacuum routing exactly the same except that the lines that originally went to the EGR I looped, just get a longer vacuum line and use it instead of the two lines that went to the valve before. Then I went ahead and completely removed the MDP sensor. I have not had any CELs using this method and I believe Rich3389 is using this same method on a 2g ecu with no problems.
 
So Im trying to follow exactly what sd_ff22 did to get rid of his EGR valve but without having the CEL light on. Ive been looking at the way he routed his vaccuum lines on his pics on post 277+ for a good solid hour and Im still somewhat confused as to how he routed them.

Im not sure where the blue vaccuum lines go or what he did with the MDP sensor. Maybe Im just not looking hard enough but can somebody (or even himslef) explain in detail all the vaccuum lines and their destination. Ive been waiting for the day to install my E3 and that day has finally come.

Thanks a lot guys.

There really shouldn't be anything difficult about this, just hook everything back up the way it was installed origionally? I disconnected the EGR & MDP (EGR still electrically plugged in, MDP not because I'm using that to log boost) & have yet to see a CEL. The stocker has some hard lines & then soft rubber lines but just trace their connection locations & install all new vacuum hose (high quality silicone preferred) with the same connections.
 
If you wanted to keep your mdp you could try epoxying a nipple to the sensor and run a vacuum line to the manifold. The hole on the mdp is small though so you'd have to be careful to not get epoxy in the hole. I don't vouch for this solution because i haven't done it, but it's what i would try if i owned a 2g.

Btw, I am using a 2g head on a 6bolt block w/ RVR intake.
 
IIRC the stock MDP is only used to check EGR function and therefore is useless once the EGR system is no longer functional.

Ahh, that's right... i guess there's really no use for the MDP with the evo3/rvr intake.

Has anyone done any testing yet that definitively says it is an improvement?

I had someone tell me that evo3 intakes aren't as good as 2g intakes because the runners are shorter and they lose power.... I'm going to use mine anyway because i'll go by what I think is best, but I just wanted you guys to know that someone I consider knowledgeable told me that.... and I'm skeptical.
 
I posted my findings somewhere back in this thread. Not actual dyno results & not back to back logs of before/after (as this was installed in the spring when I was doing other work). Though I can say 100% that it defently helps out with top end flow, which is what this mani is designed to do with its shorter runners. If it lost any midrange power, that I've never looked at but it defently doesn't feel to have lost any power in the midrange accordign to the pants dyno.
 
stocker has some hard lines & then soft rubber lines but just trace their connection locations & install all new vacuum hose (high quality silicone preferred) with the same connections.

Ok, which lines am I not using anymore? where does the new vaccum line go to, specifically? Is this what he did in his writeup because from reading his it doesnt seem like he did it like youre suggesting but maybe Im just not understanding what he did.
 
Head out to your engine bay and put your hand on the purge valve (bolted to the stocker manifold and looks like a 1g bov). There are two vacuum lines connected to it, follow them to where they reach hard lines, they will be right next to each other where they attach. What you want to do is maintain this loop so you replace both of those vacuum lines with 1 longer vacuum line that attaches to those hard lines.

Potentially you could cut out a little bit more if you were trying to cut down on engine bay clutter but this is what I did and if you make it that far you can figure out what you can get rid of from there.

Take the valve that you just took off and throw it at something or try to sell it.
 
I posted my findings somewhere back in this thread. Not actual dyno results & not back to back logs of before/after (as this was installed in the spring when I was doing other work). Though I can say 100% that it defently helps out with top end flow, which is what this mani is designed to do with its shorter runners. If it lost any midrange power, that I've never looked at but it defently doesn't feel to have lost any power in the midrange accordign to the pants dyno.

Was there any noticeable power loss down low? Like I said, not that it matters too much to me anyway because I'm still going to use it... but I like to hear what others say that went from a 2g manifold to this. I already gained low end power from swapping to a small port 2g head on my 6bolt block over what i had w/ the 1g intake manifold/head.... so even if i lose a little bit it'll be fine because i gained some down low to begin with. What do you think?
 
Was there any noticeable power loss down low? Like I said, not that it matters too much to me anyway because I'm still going to use it... but I like to hear what others say that went from a 2g manifold to this. I already gained low end power from swapping to a small port 2g head on my 6bolt block over what i had w/ the 1g intake manifold/head.... so even if i lose a little bit it'll be fine because i gained some down low to begin with. What do you think?

I didn't specifically compare logs of down low power as that doesn't really matter to me but no from the butt dyno, no noticeable loss in low/mid range power. I'm sure if there were very minimal losses, I wouldn't notice them but I am able to tell the difference when I'm running a deg or two less timing (so the butt dyno is fairly accurate LOL ) Didn't notice a loss in spool either.
 
Ok, which lines am I not using anymore? where does the new vaccum line go to, specifically? Is this what he did in his writeup because from reading his it doesnt seem like he did it like youre suggesting but maybe Im just not understanding what he did.

I hooked up my vacuum lines exactly how it was from factory, I didn't delete any of them. So electrically my EGR is still connected & vacuum line is still connected so mine would function like normal (well except for the fact that the valve isn't actually connected anymore). If you don't want a vacuum line going to the EGR, then don't install it :confused: I can't tell you exactly where each hose goes, as I said just trace how your lines currently are & install the new ones back the same way. My car being a 98 has an abit different emissions hookup vs your 97, so telling you how mines hooked up isn't going to help.
 
my butt dyno was actually pretty impressed after the evo III IM/1g TB install... dan (sd_ff22) is my really good friend and was NOT mod'ing his car just so he could get an actual dyno reading from the eIII IM. he totaled his car before he could get it on the dyno after he installed it though. :cry:

theres no way you'll be losing power by doing this swap though, that 2g IM looks so restrictive i don't even care about the numbers.

:dsm:
 
If felt a little bit of loss down low in the 2200-2800 range but I also felt like the quicker spool of the turbo and not running out of go quite as soon more than made up for it. IMO I'm almost never in the 2200-2800 range when I'm trying to go fast and my car is at a point where it is aggressive enough that I don't have to worry about down low driveability. I've considered trying to add a degree or two of timing in those ranges but I'm already trying to combat some partial throttle knock just above that range so at this point I'm just living with it, it really isn't a big deal. The loss of low end could also come from the larger throttle body bore as well.
 
jjrock5 ,

As Daren has said, all I did was rig a new EGR valve to the evo 3 manifold so if anyone looked under there, it would apear to be installed and functioning. Once I pulled my stock 2g IM off, All I did was run vacuum lines to match all the stock lines. I did not reuse the small section of hard lines. I used all new vacuum lines. you only see that section of blue because I ran out of black. I never had any negative effects with this setup. Never a stutter, CEL or idle issue. As Corey(gofer) has said, I dynod before I installed the evo3 IM. I had a pile of parts sitting in my garage that I would not install because I wanted to make sure that the only change would be the E3IM. I never did get to re-dyno... Corey now has my manifold... as well as 90% of my mods.
 
So just to be certain, everyone that's switched says that this is worth it and a good upgrade for those wanting a "stockish" manifold w/o going to sheet metal correct?

Okay, how much more confirmation do you need, did you not read the last 16 pages ROFL


Cast, stock looking mani with runner length about half way between stock length vs SMIM length, whats not to love ;)
 
Welllll.... what's considered "stock" because I went from a 6bolt intake to an evo3 intake/2g head.... I think the 2g intake manifold was a little shorter than the 1g intake.... or am I wrong.

Oh and btw, I did read all the pages on this thread before I ever posted in it ;). I just wanted to hear what people had to say, everyone just kinda... tapered off and didn't say much else besides "it rules"... I was kinda hoping for a little more technical data than that.... but measuring off the butt dyno is ok too I guess since that's the only dyno my car has ever been involved with and it seem to be kinda accurate (to me anyway LOL).
 
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