Lancer Evolution III Intake Manifold

[reno23]

Damn, anyone from Europe able to get me some new gromments? Theres no US Mitsu Dealer that would happen to sell those would there be?

I just skimmed the last few posts, tell me what your looking for in detail, part# and name, and i'll go check at the Mitsu Dealership on my next day off.

 

[matthewdesigns]

so why would you want a manifold with shorter runners? from my understanding, longer runners=more torque. and from my exoerience, dsm's kind of struggle making good torque numbers when getting more hp. someone correct me if im wrong about the runners. and im not trying to start a hissy fit in here

This manifold does have shortish runners, but they are nowhere as short as a smim, so it's not like torque is being thrown out completely. I am using an Evo3 16g turbo and make 10% more torque than hp, so I'm hoping that this manifold will flatten out my torque spike a little, and extend my top end as well, so that I can see more consistent power production across the rpm range.

 

[pboglio]

It is slightly softer below 3000 rpms, above that it is all good. Tangible gains are in the +6000 rpm range and you will notice it. Driveability is spot on, this is coming off a street production car not from some hack DSMer who thinks he's a mitsubishi design engineer. This is the mod you need if you want to turn your 4g63 into a revver.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

I'm lookin for the grommets that go under the bolts that hold the VC down....Its kinda hard to see but you should get the idea....I'll try to get pics within the next day or so...

As turbosax wrote....

The part number is MD327253. JNZ doesn't list them so I bet they're not available in the US.

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[reno23]

^^^Got the info, i'll go check it out today, and let you guys know if I find them.

 

[bling5tatus]

So the ONLY determined difference between an RVR and an EVO3 intake is the difference in vacuum/boost sources and the absence of EGR provisions on the transmission side of the flange.... right?

 

[matthewdesigns]

Just got mine today. I hope to get it installed in the next month or so, and I'll post actual airflow numbers based solely on the manifold swap. Thanks to VergeTSi for getting this out quickly and in great condition! A quick wash and blast and it'll look like new

 

[reno23]

The part number is MD327253. JNZ doesn't list them so I bet they're not available in the US.

Your valve cover bolt Washer/Grommets(as you described) are available here in the middle east, part# MD327253. I asked about availability issues and the parts center said there isn't any for this part, they always got them in stock. They even pointed out that the '09 Galant i was driving, company car btw, uses them on it's valve cover too. Sure enough, popped the hood to take a look and they were on the valve cover bolts. Hard to believe you can't get it in North America, you guys sure you can't find it at the dealer? After looking at them for a bit, i figured if your valve cover didn't use/need them before, and you properly torque to spec, then they are unnecessary, are they not?

 

[anmGST]

Maybe I missed it though all 18 pages but we did you guys that have them pick up or E3 intake?? I have a E3 turbo and O2 housing and would love to keep the match with the intake. .thank you in advance.

 

[the_mork]

Usually they come into the US on imported motors. You can find them on ebay or the classifieds. Unfortunately lots of people have been throwing them away for years because they don't really realize what they are and use the stock manifold so that they can keep the EGR.

 

[jjrock5]

Maybe I missed it though all 18 pages but we did you guys that have them pick up or E3 intake?? I have a E3 turbo and O2 housing and would love to keep the match with the intake. .thank you in advance.

ENGLISH please!! But I think you're asking where did we pick them up...

I picked mine up from a member on Talk but he lives in Japan and shipped it from there.

Many guys have luck on ebay but it seems the most recent buys have been from other members themselves. Keep looking, there are a few around.

 

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Your valve cover bolt Washer/Grommets(as you described) are available here in the middle east, part# MD327253. I asked about availability issues and the parts center said there isn't any for this part, they always got them in stock. They even pointed out that the '09 Galant i was driving, company car btw, uses them on it's valve cover too. Sure enough, popped the hood to take a look and they were on the valve cover bolts. Hard to believe you can't get it in North America, you guys sure you can't find it at the dealer? After looking at them for a bit, i figured if your valve cover didn't use/need them before, and you properly torque to spec, then they are unnecessary, are they not?

Nope I called up my local dealer and they blatantly told me, "There's no such part number..." then hung up on me....

The dealership is a bunch of @holes around here...

When I install a vale cover I simply go at it by feel....I've never broke a bolt or stripped out a thread or cracked a valve cover, but would rather have that little bit of security so that it doesn't happen....Plus I like how they look, its like a rare part....

 

[stevestevesteve]

now isnt this gonna throw some codes such as one for the mdp sensor? and this will put a big FAIL on my emissions...

 

[redleader36]

now isnt this gonna throw some codes such as one for the mdp sensor? and this will put a big FAIL on my emissions...

This was covered at the very top of this page.

Many ppl just leave the sensor plugged in but hanging somewhere on top of the mani tucked in.

I basically made it 'functional' by buying a hose the diameter if the circular tip of the sensor, I believe like around 7/8'' ID, and teed into the brake booster hose behind the mani by the firewall. I used a beefy brass t-fitting that I bought at lowes. Simple little fix.

leave your mdp sensor hooked up then. just hook a vacuum line up to the bottom of it and run the line to a vacuum source. thats how mine is right now. you could invest in one of those aftermarket mdp sensor brackets that has a vacuum nipple, but i just zip-tied a line to the nub on the sensor itself.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

now isnt this gonna throw some codes such as one for the mdp sensor? and this will put a big FAIL on my emissions...

I know this thread is long, but it's posted here. There is a local from SD that did I believe a JMF MDP/MAP sensor adaptor kinda thing and just let it hang downbehind the manifold. All it needs is to be hooked up to a boost source.

Edit:
This piece from JMF

 

[matthewdesigns]

Got my manifold installed over the weekend I'll be logging some 'after' pulls later today or tomorrow for comparison...got the 'before' runs in a few days ago.

A few things I found during my install could be of some help to others (see pics attached, too):

1) An M16/1.5mm pitch oil drain plug fits PERFECTLY in the hole where the EGR line used to attach. No trimming or shimming a bolt to make it fit, and the fiber gasket to match makes it a tight, clean install.

2) The MAP sensor has a little nipple on it, which can be *gently* filed to a conical shape to allow a 1/8" vac line to be attached and zip tied in place. No need to spend money on an adapter plate. You could epoxy it as well for more security, but it's tight just zip-tied. I also let mine hang down on the passenger side of the mani, under the PCV valve area, after cutting the harness and getting a little more length for it.

3) I tucked the harness under the fuel rail for a cleaner install. If you want to attach the harness to the top of the manifold, you have to remove the 'box' around the injector area of the harness and perform a little surgery anyway, so take the extra 5 minutes and tuck it . It just looks better I did not have the firing order issue that others have had, either. I got a coilpack with my mani, swapped over the ignitor, and plugged in the spark plug wires in the normal (4-1-2-3) order. Fired up the first time.

4) I found a trick for getting the lower manifold bolts loose, which does NOT require removing the DP, or crawling under the car at all, as others have done. Pull the EGR valve off the mounted 2g manifold for more arm clearance. Use a ratcheting wrench to grab the bolt heads, and a looped length of heavy electrical wire to grab the other end of the wrench and pull on it from above. I could not get enough torque on the wrench alone due to the crazy angle at which my arm was positioned under the manifold, so pulling from above seemed the next best thing. You can't use this method on the #4 runner bolt because of the 2g mani shape, so I used a 10" extension and a 14mm socket to push down on the wrench from above for that one. Tightening them back up is the exact reverse of this...wire loop for the #4 bolt pulling up, socket extension for the other 3 pushing down. Sounds confusing, but look at the photos below for clarification. I read in this thread about people fighting these bolts for hours...it took me 10 minutes to get them out this way.

 

[matthewdesigns]

Got out last night and logged some 3rd gear pulls. Not what I was hoping to see, but what my gut told me I would see . I've opened up the entire intake and exhaust track at this point, and I'm pretty sure this proves I need cams to get any more airflow. But I digress...

I went from a 2g intake manifold to the Evo3 (see above). The graph represents a typical pull from before and after the manifold swap. Before the swap I could hold 26psi to redline, now I'm dropping off to 24 psi but I'm not losing any airflow. Which is fine with me...same airflow at lower pressure just means a longer life for my Evo316g. AFR's hit 11.8:1 on e85, and the airflow numbers are corrected for the AFC tweaks. Peak airflow was 34.05lb/min, timing was 22*. I am going to play with adding more shims to the wga to see what happens, as I'm currently shimmed out only about 4mm. These pulls were made with my cutout closed, through the stock catback, 'cause I was on the street dyno . The last pull I made was with it open, but it was not clean. With the cutout open and a little more fuel dialed in I think I can squeeze a little more air out of the setup.

The best thing I can say about this manifold, at this point, is that it smoothed out my top end airflow. While I'm only flowing <1lb/min more than before, it's holding steady and feels a bit stronger for it. I definitely feel it pulling a little harder up top.

 

[cooldude919]

Thought i would show off my manifold after getting all cleaned up and painted, along with my water pipe, fuel rail, and transfer case and also my hx35 from justin on here.

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So i guess i still need a 1g tb, is it worth it getting a 63mm one? Either way i will need 1g gaskets vs my current 2g gaskets, right? Will my throttle body elbow from my ssac type kit work OK on a 1g tb?

 

[jjrock5]

I don't think it's worth getting the 63. With this install your airflow will increase noticeably and the gains would be minimal with the 63 afterwards.

 

[the_mork]

So i guess i still need a 1g tb, is it worth it getting a 63mm one? Either way i will need 1g gaskets vs my current 2g gaskets, right? Will my throttle body elbow from my ssac type kit work OK on a 1g tb?

I'm pretty sure my 1g tb is outflowing my setup (mods in profile) based on the fact that I hit the same load at about 80%tps as I do at 100%tps. By the numbers 20% looks like a lot but when you consider the area of the airflow path at each level it isn't actually that much different so I think I'm not super far from reaching the flow of the 1g tb I just don't think I'm there yet and doubt you will be either.

 

[cooldude919]

I'm pretty sure my 1g tb is outflowing my setup (mods in profile) based on the fact that I hit the same load at about 80%tps as I do at 100%tps. By the numbers 20% looks like a lot but when you consider the area of the airflow path at each level it isn't actually that much different so I think I'm not super far from reaching the flow of the 1g tb I just don't think I'm there yet and doubt you will be either.

OK so 1g 60mm tb it is then. So What gaskets did you use? If i look on extreme PSI it says i need MD194827 and MD146399 , does that sound right? Also hoping my elbow from my FMIC will fit ok.

 

[snowborder714]

Those part numbers look good to me.

And your SSAC elbow will work. I run the same combo in my car.

 

[pboglio]

matthewdesigns,

Interesting data. I'd suggest cams. The intake manifold is biasing the intake tuning towards the high end, but your stock cams are not. This ends up really wiping out the gains you'd normally see with the intake manifold. With higher duration cams, you are going to see some eye opening gains that will magnify what the normal person would see with cams alone.
I think you'll be impressed.

 

[v8s_are_slow]

Well, I dunno where you guys are finding these things or what you're typing in to get the results but I sure can't seem to find them.

 

[pboglio]

My 63mm bored out 1g TB has a funky idle problem that is notorious with these things, I knew about it before I bought it. You aren't going to make anymore power with it, it'll just make it seem like you have more power at a smaller throttle opening. I'd stick with a 60mm 1g TB for perfect driveability.