Hx35 bep housing

[moosegst]

So I took my hx35 off to rebuild it and got some bolts broken off for the manifold. I have tried getting it red hot and letting it cool and trying to drill it out but nothing working. Any other suggestions?

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Couple of suggestions:

• Look at metal specific drill bits (like cobalt drill bits) and not run of the mill titanium bits.
• Step drill your bits. Start small and work to a larger size. The final and largest bit should be the one used for your thread repair.
• center your first bit using something like a center punch to make sure you are as close to the center of the bolt as possible.
• Don't go for full speed. Slower is better.
• Something like cutting oil to keep temperature/friction down (increases drill bit life). Anything is better than nothing.
• Keep the bit as straight as possible.
• Wear gloves and safety goggles.

You are not the first one to have this happen:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/bullseye-housing-broken-bolts.362586/

There are many other related threads but just not BEP specific. It is more common than you think.

 

[moosegst]

Thanks I will try that. I have got through 5 cobalt bits. So I'm guessing I was going to fast. I'm almost all the way through one of them.

Well sh** went wrong and tried to use an extractor and it broke off in the hole. Guess in going to be looking for another bep housing

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

That is why I didn't suggest any type of extractor/EZ-out.

 

[Cox Abele]

Before throwing the housings to the wayside and buying another, take it to a local machine shop and let them quote the job.

 

[moosegst]

They told me 100 an hour. I still get charged if it's under an hour.

 

[gofer]

There's a few machine shops around there, it took me a couple tries before I found one that charged per bolt extracted, $40 each.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

And if you want to just throw it away let me know But the problem now is you have an extremely hard piece of metal in there so its even tougher to get out. You'll find a shop just keep looking or weld a nut on the end.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

So here is my take on the .55 BEP housing (not the .70). I have searched for used housing in the past and all of them had a broken bolt somewhere on the housing, well I might have found one that didn't but it had some other problem. So I ordered a new one and the threads in it all needed chased with a tap before I used it or the bolts would have been tight as hell and I worried that it too would suffer from a broken bolt if I had to remove it for anything. I chased the threads and all the bolts would thread in great afterwards but boy was it a PITA to tap stainless. After that I got in contact with David at Bullseye Power (he is their R & D guy) and expressed my concerns along with pictures. Well I had a second car that needed a BEP housing so I, again, ordered a new one and it was even worse with holes that were not completely threaded all the way through and a piece of flashing was hanging in the throat of the new housing just waiting to get hot and come off and go slinging through the turbo, so I again got ahold of David with more pictures and my comments on the quality of work I expected from a 320.00 dollar NEW housing. He sent me a return label and told me that the vendor must have some of the "old stock, not the new revised version". I mailed it to him at their expense and I received back a very nice housing with proper threading and no flashing, quite a nice piece. My experience has made me check every new housing with bolts in every hole before even thinking about installing it, so that this problem doesn't happen to ME. A generous amount of copper anti-sieze works wonders and should always be used on those bolts to help also. I now have a .70 housing and it is very nice and no complaints at all and no chasing threads in it before I install. Just my experience to share with all that are going with those housings. The threads are just too tight and I told David I suspected a dull tap in there manufacturing process. All that being said, David has made it right every time, its just the time to send it to them and get a "good" housing back so let it be known and I hope others have had better experiences but I would bet the same thing on those older housings due to me having two of them with similar problems.

 

[moosegst]

I bandaided the housing but with the broken bolts I had and new holes I had to drill on the housing I will he happier with a new or good condition used bep housing (if that exists). Does anyone know anything about the ones sold on extremepsi? If they are from bullseye power?

 

[Vegas Smith]

So here is my take on the .55 BEP housing (not the .70). I have searched for used housing in the past and all of them had a broken bolt somewhere on the housing, well I might have found one that didn't but it had some other problem. So I ordered a new one and the threads in it all needed chased with a tap before I used it or the bolts would have been tight as hell and I worried that it too would suffer from a broken bolt if I had to remove it for anything. I chased the threads and all the bolts would thread in great afterwards but boy was it a PITA to had tap stainless. After that I got in contact with David at Bullseye Power (he is their R & D guy) and expressed my concerns along with pictures. Well I had a second car that needed a BEP housing so I, again, ordered a new one and it was even worse with holes that were not completely threaded all the way through and a piece of flashing was hanging in the throat of the new housing just waiting to get hot and come off and go slinging through the turbo, so I again got ahold of David with more pictures and my comments on the quality of work I expected from a 320.00 dollar NEW housing. He sent me a return label and told me that the vendor must have some of the "old stock, not the new revised version". I mailed it to him at their expense and I received back a very nice housing with proper threading and no flashing, quite a nice piece. My experience has made me check every new housing with bolts in every hole before even thinking about installing it, so that this problem doesn't happen to ME. A generous amount of copper anti-sieze works wonders and should always be used on those bolts to help also. I now have a .70 housing and it is very nice and no complaints at all and no chasing threads in it before I install. Just my experience to share with all that are going with those housings. The threads are just too tight and I told David I suspected a dull tap in there manufacturing process. All that being said, David has made it right every time, its just the time to send it to them and get a "good" housing back so let it be known and I hope others have had better experiences but I would bet the same thing on those older housings due to me having two of them with similar problems.

Just to confirm, you are using the same tap that would be used to repair a thread with a helicoil kit? The reason I ask is because I'm trying to clean up threads on my mitsu housing and it doesn't seem like the m10x1.25 tap I got in my helicoil kit. Thanks.

 

[donniekak]

The tap in the helicoil kit is not m10x1.25. Is is a tap that will thread the material to fit a m10x1.25 insert.

Just my personal opinion. Through the years I used a box of 20 inserts on housings. I gave up. Now I drill them out and replace the bolts with smaller m8 bolts and nuts. When they seize, you can just break them in half with a breaker bar, and both ends fall right out with nothing stuck.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

No it is a standard M10x1.25 metric tap and is a real bugger to do all 12 (or sometimes 14) holes by hand. You tap a little, with some lube of course, then back out, clean the tap and repeat. It ISN'T fun but needed if you don't want to seize a bolt and break it off. It took a few hours by hand but I believe it was worth it as I have not had a bolt seize in it yet or even be hard to remove.

 

[Vegas Smith]

The tap in the helicoil kit is not m10x1.25. Is is a tap that will thread the material to fit a m10x1.25 insert.

Just my personal opinion. Through the years I used a box of 20 inserts on housings. I gave up. Now I drill them out and replace the bolts with smaller m8 bolts and nuts. When they seize, you can just break them in half with a breaker bar, and both ends fall right out with nothing stuck.

So just to confirm, a helicoil tap is different from a conventional tap due to having to make room for the thread insert?

Also, are you saying you use a double-sided bolt with nuts on top and bottom? Are you using helicoil when you drill out to a smaller size? Thanks.

 

[Tiki2777]

No it is a standard M10x1.25 metric tap and is a real bugger to do all 12 (or sometimes 14) holes by hand. You tap a little, with some lube of course, then back out, clean the tap and repeat. It ISN'T fun but needed if you don't want to seize a bolt and break it off. It took a few hours by hand but I believe it was worth it as I have not had a bolt seize in it yet or even be hard to remove.

Thank you for doing all that research and time consuming stuff with Bullseye and their housings. I personally have had similar issues just attaching my PR O2 housing to the .55 exhaust housing (bolts don't thread in properly, don't love coming out, ALL ANTISEIZED too ). A+ stuff

Also, their Borg Warner s200 bolt on .55 exhaust housings have none of these quality issues I might add, bolts don't seize up in them, thread in great etc, little casting flash. (at least of the few I've used they have been perfect)

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I bandaided the housing but with the broken bolts I had and new holes I had to drill on the housing I will he happier with a new or good condition used bep housing (if that exists). Does anyone know anything about the ones sold on extremepsi? If they are from bullseye power?

Yes they are from BEP. They are the ones that got me to R & D at BEP.

I would like to add that Bullseye was VERY helpful and always made it right with me as they are a good American company that stands behind their products.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

So here is my take on the .55 BEP housing (not the .70). I have searched for used housing in the past and all of them had a broke......

Get yourself some nickel anti seize. Its not expensive and is wayyyy better for exhaust stuff than the copper stuff. Never broken a bolt using the stuff even reusing hardware store manifold bolts always comes out smoothly.

 

[Chumpaumpalumpa]

So just to confirm, a helicoil tap is different from a conventional tap due to having to make room for the thread insert?

Also, are you saying you use a double-sided bolt with nuts on top and bottom? Are you using helicoil when you drill out to a smaller size? Thanks.

Its a standard tap but the M10x1.25 refers to the inside dimensions which the tap has nothing to do with in fact thetap would actually be something like an M12x1.25 for that helicoil.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Get yourself some nickel anti seize. Its not expensive and is wayyyy better for exhaust stuff than the copper stuff. Never broken a bolt using the stuff even reusing hardware store manifold bolts always comes out smoothly.

Yes the NICKLE is what I used, I was just spouting out off the top of my head in that post and the nickel stuff is great, however, even using it and not installed yet, the bolts were still WAY to tight in there threads which is why I retapped every hole on the housing. Thanks for pointing that out Chump!!!

 

[GST with PSI]

Get yourself some nickel anti seize. Its not expensive and is wayyyy better for exhaust stuff than the copper stuff. Never broken a bolt using the stuff even reusing hardware store manifold bolts always comes out smoothly.

+1

I always use a ton of this stuff on exhaust hardware and have never had a problem during disassembly.

 

[SOADweskey]

I had a couple broken bolts in my BEP housing. As you can see from the picture I had some trouble with not being able to get a hole drilled on center so this was the solution. I took it to a machinist and He cleaned up the broken off one on his mill and then machined a whole new set of holes for $80. So far so good as this repair was done five years ago and I'm still running this housing.

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[JusMX141]

Nickel anti-seize. I can't preach it enough. I now install it in the threaded holes on every turbo I rebuild to hopefully save the user some hassle in the future as MHI Evo III turbine housings eat bolts as bad or worse than Bullseye housings do.

If I have a stubborn bolt that won't drill on either the o2 housing or manifold flanges, I cut through the side of the housing with a thin cutoff wheel and split the bolt in half then drive it out the bottom and weld the split in the housing shut. Works 100% of the time.