The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Help me go low 10s then 9s!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Ah..... One of those kinds of people...

Didn't you say that your car is on a English tune? Aren't you also asking someone to remote tune your car? People that live in glass houses....

Now let's talk about your "1/8th" time. My car did the 1/8(660') in 7 flat @ 100.9mph with a 1.64 60' and ended up at 10.90 for the 1/4(1320). Since you went 6.8@ nobody knows in the 1/8th(550') I'm thinking if you work on your 60', get rid of your power steering, and find a 1/4 mile track that is 1100'long, you could easily bench race your way to a low 10.

Take your time and distance out of your first post, as it does not mean anything to anybody but you.:toobad:
 
It's not a ####ing bench race thats just what the track length was, they claimed to be an 1/8th at the time. And thats what i got. Sorry just looked at slip 6.9 @78
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
this was before english tune
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
If a professional tuning shop set my timing ATDC at any point, I'd be getting my money back. The lowest I ever set my timing was 5* with 20psi of boost and solid 11:1 AFR's. It felt like a dog and would crap fireballs right before 7500. Ran a glorious 14.3 in the 1/4 with that tune.
 
Didn't you already say you know why its negative? Because your base timing is wrong due to the incorrect crank pulley?
 
Fixed that dunno y i still have it like that tho LOL they targeted a 12:1 and didn't even try to touch my boost when i had 27 psi on pump previously they didn't feel like going past 22 on pump. Ive tried tuning my car for a long time i have good afrs i just don't known dick abou how to create a good timing map, thats the only reasom i went to a tuner and they didn't even try to adjust out anythin on my maps. I can show you before and after logs.

Wes I'm talking timing advance negative not base. My base is a solid 5* and all timing marks line up, verified 3 weeks ago during the crank pulley swap.
 
so your saying your making over 500hp just on 3 degrees of timing??? or after adding 3 degrees of timing?

Pretty sure im around the 500whp mark right now. We're finishing up the full tune tonight and I'm taking it to the local 1/4 tomarrow night. Trap speed will tell, I dont like sitting here talking about what I might be making or what I might run....I just posted that "VD graph" because I don't have aem to post any logs.
 
You could have looked at your e.t. vs your trap speed and right away you should have known it wasn't a true 1/8. There is no way you could net that e.t. with that 60' and trap speed. Your 1/8 trap is going to have to be around 100mph if you want to see that kind of a 1/8 e.t. or a high ten second 1/4 mile pass
 
I did look at that and think it was funny. That was my firs day at a track. I wasnt sire if their timing equip was off or if it was a short track at the time cause they always said " come to ever green speedways 1/8th mile drag races". I later called to confirm track length or ask if their trap laser was off and they admited to a 550 ft track. With the other 110 feet i could have gained alot of mph. The logs said a higher mph, don't recall how quick though maybe 7 or 8 mph over the slip. Although that could have been letting off after the traps. English said my dyno tune would be good for an 11.5 and thats not gonna cut it. Sadly it snowed up here and i have no idea when the tracks will open. Probably april.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Pretty sure im around the 500whp mark right now. We're finishing up the full tune tonight and I'm taking it to the local 1/4 tomarrow night. Trap speed will tell, I dont like sitting here talking about what I might be making or what I might run....I just posted that "VD graph" because I don't have aem to post any logs.

My car made more then 500 awhp on the 25 psi spring pressure. Take your time, and get your numbers strait. You dont need to guess. See what it makes and see what it runs.
 
Well as an update...I'm running the "bolt on" S366 and first tuning session went well. 30 psi on pump gas, 10.8 afr and 3 degrees timing and then the laptop died. LOL. This .55 a/r housing hasn't even showed any signs of choking and i'm on a huge smim and bc 280's. 2nd gear rolling burnouts are fun....i never realized a dsm 2nd gear went to 80mph at 9200 rpm's. :)

This wasn't even a full 3rd gear pull. afr was right on the computer but i had my uego set to p00. This log is from the middle of tuning it. thats why it looks like power starts to drop off after 7200 but it definetly doesn't. I'm on the upwards of 500whp realistically. My trap speed this saturday will tell.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




I thought you were on the t3 housing?

I am, but that was in reference to you saying that housing is not choking out the turbo. How did the car do to the track?
 
I am, but that was in reference to you saying that housing is not choking out the turbo. How did the car do to the track?

Its not choking this turbo. But ofcourse you are going to make more power at lower boost levels because your turbine housing has a bigger a/r and a better flowing design, which also changes your engine VE. We tuned my car at 28 psi with 16 degrees timing and fixed the "boost creep" problem you can see in the first log. I'm getting 28 psi by 4800 rpm's and its more around 450-475whp now. I took it to the track and my car took a crap LOL. We did 75 tuning pulls the same night and not a hiccup or sound from the knock sensor, no problems at all. I pull up to the tree and lightly launched WITHOUT launch control and my car ran crap...10.0 afr, not going anywhere and still held 28 psi. I'm currently digging at home now trying to figure out what went wrong. I will definetly let you know.
 
This is why you learn mostly what it is your tuning with, and why you shoukd have the aem program on YOUR laptop, there is no sense having someone else tune your car and you no even knowning the first thing about how to do it or view the program. I do all my own tuning with the exception of one english tune which tey didn't even change that much and te whole point was for them to set up a netter timing map to get me out of negative, which they didnt do. They instead focused on my base timing and my wobbily cam gear and 7 bolt crank pulley which are both replaced now. Timing map was only changed at the idle mark area for 15* timing for launches. The only reason i go to a tuner is for advice on what to change and how to do it. Id never let someone have my laptop and tune away without the first idea what they are doing. Lol if you did it right you would probably know why your car " took a crap" 75 tuning pulls is..... Alot of tuning pulls... That could have been 75 1/4 mile runs and your 76 th would have been your crap out LOL. Sorry to hear that man.
 
Its not choking this turbo. But ofcourse you are going to make more power at lower boost levels because your turbine housing has a bigger a/r and a better flowing design, which also changes your engine VE. We tuned my car at 28 psi with 16 degrees timing and fixed the "boost creep" problem you can see in the first log. I'm getting 28 psi by 4800 rpm's and its more around 450-475whp now. I took it to the track and my car took a crap LOL. We did 75 tuning pulls the same night and not a hiccup or sound from the knock sensor, no problems at all. I pull up to the tree and lightly launched WITHOUT launch control and my car ran crap...10.0 afr, not going anywhere and still held 28 psi. I'm currently digging at home now trying to figure out what went wrong. I will definetly let you know.

75 pulls in one night?! OMG
 
Its not choking this turbo. But ofcourse you are going to make more power at lower boost levels because your turbine housing has a bigger a/r and a better flowing design, which also changes your engine VE. We tuned my car at 28 psi with 16 degrees timing and fixed the "boost creep" problem you can see in the first log. I'm getting 28 psi by 4800 rpm's and its more around 450-475whp now. I took it to the track and my car took a crap LOL. We did 75 tuning pulls the same night and not a hiccup or sound from the knock sensor, no problems at all. I pull up to the tree and lightly launched WITHOUT launch control and my car ran crap...10.0 afr, not going anywhere and still held 28 psi. I'm currently digging at home now trying to figure out what went wrong. I will definetly let you know.

Our turbine wheels are actually the same. All Bullseye S300 turbo's use the cut down and shaved BW wheels which allows them to fit in the non-t4 package. What you explained by talking about ar ratios in the housings is a restriction. Not many people have had an s366 or 91-90 on these motors. Everyone makes 600- 675 on dsms and evos between 30-36 psi. Your car is the only one that falls short, for whatever reason. Just from my research and no other reason. As a point of refererence, I made 662AWHP @ about 33 psi on a dynojet. You're not to far off from that boost level now. At the time that was on my 8.5 to 1 motor. With almost 10 more psi, I failed to make another 100 awhp more on the same dyno untill we used e-85 INSTEAD of C16.
 
This is why you learn mostly what it is your tuning with, and why you shoukd have the aem program on YOUR laptop, there is no sense having someone else tune your car and you no even knowning the first thing about how to do it or view the program. I do all my own tuning with the exception of one english tune which tey didn't even change that much and te whole point was for them to set up a netter timing map to get me out of negative, which they didnt do. They instead focused on my base timing and my wobbily cam gear and 7 bolt crank pulley which are both replaced now. Timing map was only changed at the idle mark area for 15* timing for launches. The only reason i go to a tuner is for advice on what to change and how to do it. Id never let someone have my laptop and tune away without the first idea what they are doing. Lol if you did it right you would probably know why your car " took a crap" 75 tuning pulls is..... Alot of tuning pulls... That could have been 75 1/4 mile runs and your 76 th would have been your crap out LOL. Sorry to hear that man.

I have always done it this way and never had a single problem. I spun a rod bearing at the track, probably from spinning an unbalanced engine to 9200 rpms but that was my own stupidity. I have no interest or need to tune my own shit. My tuner is very intelligent and would probably put most shop tunes to shame. He charges me $300 for a full tune and will drive an hour up to my driveway for a little gas money. I can't complain.


Nice. That's a ton of hot-lapping.

I like to cool down for a few minutes between pulls at an easy cruise.

Every 3rd gear pull we did, i drove about a mile before the next pull. and its been like 65 degrees outside and my IAT's never went past 73 degrees.

Our turbine wheels are actually the same. All Bullseye S300 turbo's use the cut down and shaved BW wheels which allows them to fit in the non-t4 package. What you explained by talking about ar ratios in the housings is a restriction. Not many people have had an s366 or 91-90 on these motors. Everyone makes 600- 675 on dsms and evos between 30-36 psi. Your car is the only one that falls short, for whatever reason. Just from my research and no other reason. As a point of refererence, I made 662AWHP @ about 33 psi on a dynojet. You're not to far off from that boost level now. At the time that was on my 8.5 to 1 motor. With almost 10 more psi, I failed to make another 100 awhp more on the same dyno untill we used e-85 INSTEAD of C16.

I'm on a .55 a/r bolt on housing...its going to take alot higher boost levels to make the same kind of power. and the bolt on housing s366 actually does have a slightly smaller turbine wheel than the t3 s366's....look it up. I also found a pretty bad boost leak also, that wasn't leaking when i had my base tune done. but i doubt its robbing me 100whp LOL. I also haven't actually had this thing on a real dyno yet either. Just using the virtual dyno and overlaying my logs just as a reference to know where I'm kind of at. I could be making alot more power than its showing even though my tire size, and weight and everything is accurate. I know 2nd gear is hard to keep on the road with brand new Nitto NT450's LOL.
 
A mile is not nearly enough, oil takes a long time to change temp.. up or down. :)

Lol thats what the oil cooler is for ;). haha. You're probably right....the car just wanted more every time though and it was running great....why stop? We went past 30 psi and up to around 20 degrees timing and still had maybe 1 count of knock, and that was hot lapping too.
 
You don't need 5 different setups, but making a 10 second pass is hard enough let alone clicking off a 9 second one. You don't even know what's going to break on you yet. I've struggled with vacuum lines for over a year now and finally just went with a vacuum block setup. I'm also going for 9's this year but with a/c, p/s radio etc. I decided to go with weight reduction instead of a new setup, carbon fiber doors, hood, hatch, fenders, seats, and whatever else I decide to make.

This does 2 things in my eyes, first it may be a little more expensive but these parts will never "break down." 2, less weight is so much easier on the drivetrain I figure it'll pay it self off in the long run.
 
Lol thats what the oil cooler is for ;). haha. You're probably right....the car just wanted more every time though and it was running great....why stop? We went past 30 psi and up to around 20 degrees timing and still had maybe 1 count of knock, and that was hot lapping too.

I have a large remote-mounted oil cooler as well, it still needs time to shed heat.

Thermal inertia of a large volume of high specific heat fluid (oil) can compound this issue for you when hotlapping, because it takes a long time to heat it up to levels that are problematic, and a very long time to cool down because even between laps the block is still going to be around 200*
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top