Going to Speed Density this weekend

[SeaveeDSM]

Will be running the car back up to Orlando this Friday to have my friend and Orlando's resident DSM guru Jose Clavijo switch me over to SD. I've been running off the stock 2G MAF with FIC 950 injectors and tuned on E85. The slightly cooler weather and denser air now in late fall has my IDCs too high and I think I'm pushing the MAF hard and want more fuel and I've decided to go ahead and make the switch to SD.

New FIC 1350 Blue Max injector set just arrived tonight. Also putting in a larger 9" K&N cone filter. Jose will be using his TIG welder to install the Intake Air temp sensor on the IC pipe elbow just before the TB. Omni 4-Bar MAP sensor is already installed and wired in to ECU and logged by ECMlink. Also going to be using the SD adapter cable to the present MAF connector. Oh, and while I'm up there we are also putting on a new Fluidampr harmonic balancer but that has nothing to do with the SD switch.

If we have enough time and the place is open Friday we'll do another dyno run to compare the difference after the switch to SD. This time I hope to shoot video of the dyno run and will get it up on youtube.

See my linked time slip by avatar for current dyno results (429WHP and 348 ft lbs torque), and my profile for all mods (already updated the mod list with the new items cited above).

Stay tuned ..... will report back in a few days.

 

[Chrispy0530]

Can't wait to see the results!!

I'm dying to get switched over to Speed Density and E85.

 

[BradM]

Im going e85 and sd soon too!

 

[boosting_pwr]

Cant wait to see the video.

 

[miguelmcv]

Hope you put some Info, on how to do the swap.

I'm about to do the swap as well, But I still confused on how to do it.

It's kind of scary.

 

[boosting_pwr]

^^^
I was just thinking the same on putting up a step by step. That would be really helpfull for us guys that are thinking about making the change.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

I will post a few pics and hopefully link the video and a few basics of the process but I am not directly doing the work or the tuning, Jose Clavijo is. I do have some basic undestanding of what all is involved but I don't have nearly the level of knowledge or expertise to make this a "how to" thread on converting to Speed Density.

The benefit here however may be more from the standpoint of comparative dyno results (again assuming the dyno place is open tomorrow on Veteran's Day, and unfortunately my only shot to dyno it at the same place as before is tomorrow) of a pretty much already fully built street car converting to SD.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Hope you put some Info, on how to do the swap.

I'm about to do the swap as well, But I still confused on how to do it.

It's kind of scary.

^^^
I was just thinking the same on putting up a step by step. That would be really helpfull for us guys that are thinking about making the change.

Step by step: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/395564-how-tune-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-no-maf.html

I realize you guys all have 2gs and this is written with a 1g in mind, but the setup is mostly the same and the tuning is identical.

 

[Silent_White]

I'm running SD, omni 4-bar map, and FIC1350 BLUEMaxx injectors. You will benefit greatly in the areas of tuning and idle from the purchase of a "FIC Easy Tune" injector driver box. Good Luck. Let us know if you get stumped on anything.

 

[miguelmcv]

Step by step: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/395564-how-tune-1g-v3-sd-ecmlink-no-maf.html

I realize you guys all have 2gs and this is written with a 1g in mind, but the setup is mostly the same and the tuning is identical.

I have that all ready,

I just don't know how to start.

I have read that you need to hook up the stock maf and do something else for link to capture and get SD running.

I'm running SD, omni 4-bar map, and FIC1350 BLUEMaxx injectors. You will benefit greatly in the areas of tuning and idle from the purchase of a "FIC Easy Tune" injector driver box. Good Luck. Let us know if you get stumped on anything.

Did you leave the stock MAF to get SD running (starting point).

 

[snowborder714]

sdveadjsdratio [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I have read that you need to hook up the stock maf and do something else for link to capture and get SD running.


Did you leave the stock MAF to get SD running (starting point).

The guide that I posted is with NO MAF. When I set mine up I didn't use a MAF either. Using a MAF is an option but it is not necessary or required.

 

[MY1GDSM]

I'm running SD, omni 4-bar map, and FIC1350 BLUEMaxx injectors. You will benefit greatly in the areas of tuning and idle from the purchase of a "FIC Easy Tune" injector driver box. Good Luck. Let us know if you get stumped on anything.

There is no need for the Easytune box with these size injectors or even larger might as well buy a high z Even larger Injector if your gonna spend that much with the box too.....

People Need to just adjust there Injector Deadtime per voltage an not just One global value

 

[livedsm4g63]

E-85 + sd = Winning!

I've ran this set up for about a half of a year. Works great just make sure the tune is legit. It's a little be more work to tune but once it's dialed in you'll be golden.

 

[ebonyswan]

the main practical thing that I ran into is that there is actually a 3 or 4 step process to get your new sensors setup in EcmLink. You have to add the new sensors in the program but you also have to set the pin assignments and add the new sensors to the logged/captured values before ecmlink will make use of them. You can actually have the sensors listed in ecmlink and still not actually be collecting data from them if they have not been added to the captured values listing.

You also have to look really closely at the values that your new sensors are reporting to you - if there is a wiring issue or configuration issue, you will not be able to tune SD properly. I circled round and round my car for about 3 days before I determined that I had a pin switched on my homemade maf to sd cable for my map and iat sensors. In retrospect it should have been immediately obvious since my map sensor was reporting values way out of whack with what they should have been.

 

[miguelmcv]

the main practical thing that I ran into is that there is actually a 3 or 4 step process to get your new sensors setup in EcmLink. You have to add the new sensors in the program but you also have to set the pin assignments and add the new sensors to the logged/captured values before ecmlink will make use of them. You can actually have the sensors listed in ecmlink and still not actually be collecting data from them if they have not been added to the captured values listing.

You also have to look really closely at the values that your new sensors are reporting to you - if there is a wiring issue or configuration issue, you will not be able to tune SD properly. I circled round and round my car for about 3 days before I determined that I had a pin switched on my homemade maf to sd cable for my map and iat sensors. In retrospect it should have been immediately obvious since my map sensor was reporting values way out of whack with what they should have been.

SEE, That's what I am talking about.
You guys with good knowledge tuning on link gets stack on something that spends hours even days to figure it out, Now that we don't know a lot about tuning, we might end up spending our life trying to figure it out.

I have my 3.5 map sensor logged, and I just wire the GM to the maf, But I still using the maf, I haven't install the sensor jet, just wired it up, I am waiting for my 90deg pipe to arrived, so I can weld the bung and go for a short route.

I keep reading a lot about going SD, but some times is so confusing on how to tune it.
SD Table is way, way different then then Stock Air Maf Table.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

Just got back and the SD switch is finished.

The bad news X2:

1) The dyno place was closed

2) The entire way up except for about 15 seconds I drove on the turnpike at about 74 mph - posted limit is 70. But then Murphy's Law and bad luck - for literally about 15 seconds ONCE I did a 70-90ish pull (divided highway and no other cars on the road near me on a straight and level section so I didn't put anyone else at risk) and sure enough a Florida Highway Patrol tropper was off on the side in the tree line with radar at that instant and nailed me with a $250+ ticket.... I have not had a ticket in like 15 years

The speed density switch, along with the bigger injectors, bigger air filter surface area and elimination of the air restriction that is the OEM MAF with its honeycomb - and it definitely "feels" like I've picked up some noticable additional power. The turbo seems to start spooling a bit sooner and and the car pulls hard as crap all the way to redline.

At some point when I get back up to Orlando with the car I'll dyno it again and post the results.

BTW, for those installing a Fluidampr, there is a little "lip" that protrudes out on the plastic lower timing belt cover that rubs slightly on the face of the fluidampr facing the crankshaft. A minute with a dremel and sander drum takes that lip down and it doesn't rub. The fluidamper is ALOT heavier than the OEM harmonic balancer. I cant say I really feel the difference but at my much higher than stock power levels I have alot more comfort with the fluidampr helping to absorb the resonance on the crank and hopefully protect my bearings a bit more. Plus I have seen firsthand an OEM balancer separate in half!

 

[miguelmcv]

Just got back and the SD switch is finished.

The bad news X2:

1) The dyno place was closed

2) The entire way up except for about 15 seconds I drove on the turnpike at about 74 mph - posted limit is 70. But then Murphy's Law and bad luck - for literally about 15 seconds ONCE I did a 70-90ish pull (divided highway and no other cars on the road near me on a straight and level section so I didn't put anyone else at risk) and sure enough a Florida Highway Patrol tropper was off on the side in the tree line with radar at that instant and nailed me with a $250+ ticket.... I have not had a ticket in like 15 years

The speed density switch, along with the bigger injectors, bigger air filter surface area and elimination of the air restriction that is the OEM MAF with its honeycomb - and it definitely "feels" like I've picked up some noticable additional power. The turbo seems to start spooling a bit sooner and and the car pulls hard as crap all the way to redline.

At some point when I get back up to Orlando with the car I'll dyno it again and post the results.

BTW, for those installing a Fluidampr, there is a little "lip" that protrudes out on the plastic lower timing belt cover that rubs slightly on the face of the fluidampr facing the crankshaft. A minute with a dremel and sander drum takes that lip down and it doesn't rub. The fluidamper is ALOT heavier than the OEM harmonic balancer. I cant say I really feel the difference but at my much higher than stock power levels I have alot more comfort with the fluidampr helping to absorb the resonance on the crank and hopefully protect my bearings a bit more. Plus I have seen firsthand an OEM balancer separate in half!

What was the fist steps when doing the swap?.

Did you use the Maf to help tuning at Idle when going SD?.

I have read that is more easy going that route.

If you used the Maf as a guide, can you tell us step by step.

 

[boosting_pwr]

Sorry to hear about the ticket... but on a good note at least the car pulls hard.

 

[miguelmcv]

Ho,
I know how you feel about that ticket, It happened to me 4 months ago.

 

[SeaveeDSM]

What was the fist steps when doing the swap?.

Did you use the Maf to help tuning at Idle when going SD?.

I have read that is more easy going that route.

If you used the Maf as a guide, can you tell us step by step.

Guys, I did NOT do the SD switch and the tune. A guy named Jose Clavijo up in Orlando did it for me. Jose is a freakin WIZARD with DSMs. I've never met anyone in Miami with even close to his degree of knowledge and expertise on these cars (hence why I took him the car for the original build and he was initially referred to me by the owner of JNZ Tuning). Jose had already done all the calculations to set the deadtime, etc for the new injectors in advance, and also had the initial SD table done and he refined it as I drove andhe was working the laptop. Had the whole job - new injectors, TIG welded in the IAT sensor, install of the fluidampr and installed a new Pro Sports boost gauge and had it tuned in about 4 hours. I believe he initially used the MAF as a starting point to go to SD - but am not absolutely sure. He did tell me he's done enough of these and the SD switch as to be able to do it all pretty quick.

Sorry I can't be of more help with the specifics of the tune guys but I don't want to put out a bunch of BS that I did it all myself or anything - which I think I made clear on the first post..

 

[Imback]

What was the fist steps when doing the swap?.

Did you use the Maf to help tuning at Idle when going SD?.

I have read that is more easy going that route.

If you used the Maf as a guide, can you tell us step by step.

Snowboarder already posted the link on a how to.

 

[miguelmcv]

sdveadjsdratio [ECMTuning - wiki]

Thanks for the LINK.

I don't know how the hekkkk I mist that post.

 

[livedsm4g63]

It does help to use the maf to pretune it. I however didn't do it this way. I just put in the evo3 maps and tuned from there. Im kind of wondering what your maps look like. Can you take a screen shot of the octane and timing maps for us? And what kind of boost are you running?