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1G Figure 8 O-Ringed Block sealing Issues

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DSM Chase

10+ Year Contributor
778
51
Sep 19, 2011
Senoia, Georgia
We recently this year for the first time started using a figure 8 O ring job on our bock which has had issues sealing ever since even at low boost levels 25-35psi it pushed coolant/ compression etc. We tried a Mitsubishi MLS as well as a SCE Copper gasket with both having issues sealing, The O-Rings are Stainless .010 Thousandths tall which we were told after the fact is a few thousandths too high, putting the car back together just as a 500hp street car without needing boost levels above 32psi or so... removing the O rings completely and resurfacing is not an option as it would leave the block surface too low, my question is do you guys think a Mitsubishi composite gasket would seal this and not have issues pushing coolant around 30 psi.
 
I've run a lot of o ringed blocks and never had an issue. Why the figure 8? I would think it would seal worse. I had the blocks ringed, and cut and filed the wire to butt together at a 45* angle on the ends.
 
I thought about figure 8 on my 87mm 4g64 but was able to fit the o rings within the fire ring of an OEM composite with the standard individual rings. Holding fine at 37psi with SS oring and OEM composite where the cometic MLS failed at 30psi. .013" protrusion which I know is a little higher than the recommended .010 to .011 but it's working.

If you are out far enough from the bore with the oring to need a figure 8, are you even catching the fire ring of the gasket??
 
Looks like the wire is a little to far out from the cylinder. Mine are always closer to the cylinder, and sit right in the middle of a Felpro composite gasket fire ring. Although currently I'm having great luck with an 86mm cometic and l19's.
 
Would heating/cooling cycles have an effect on this wire? Since one piece is so long it would change in length quite a bit unless the wire is soft enough (someone mentioned copper) so that it gets basically press-fit in the groove.
 
The figure 8 job is the preferred method, especially with larger cylinder bores that are close together. I don't see anyting in the photo you posted that would suggest a problem with sealing.

Has a receiver groove been machined into the head?

If you wanted to eliminate the rings from the block and use and MLS gasket you could easily pull out the stainless wire, replace it with copper wire then deck the block. Same for the head if it's got grooves machined.
 
Copper o rings (cut into the block) and composite gasket. No receiver groove in the head. 0.06" protrusion. Just my 2 cents. Not going to go list reasons why. Just my 2 cents. Titan SCE and Cometic MLS head gaskets are junk. I've tried more then my fair share of head gaskets. Biggest thing is crank case pressure relief. Make an effort to keep as much pressure out of the crank case as possible. Like I said, I'm not gonna go into detail, if you think I'm wrong or full of it, just ignore my comment.
 
No reciever grooves in head, going to try my luck with a stock mitsubishi composite, but it looks as the composite also has a metal firing ring around the cylinders right were the o rings would press in, if that doesn't work it will get Copper rings once it's in car.
 
It won't seal without the receiver grove. If you want to make it work. Swap out the steel, for copper and use a MLS. The way you have it setup, a stock felpro type would be your only choice.
 
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I'm not using the figure 8, but I have ss orings with receiver groove in the head. Also running the SCE Titan.
So far no problems with combustion pressure, though it had to be retorqued a few times to stop mixing oil/ coolant
 

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I'm not using the figure 8, but I have ss orings with receiver groove in the head. Also running the SCE Titan.
So far no problems with combustion pressure, though it had to be retorqued a few times to stop mixing oil/ coolant
Yea we did notice the same thing with the copper sce gasket, having to retorque head bolts several times...even after only 1-2 passes.
 
I'm not sure why everyone going to o-ring and copper headgaskets? MLS, and standard ARP's is all you'll need for a street car. Unless you have a filled block, and run 60-120 psi. I wouldn't bother with it.
 
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