EgoThief

[pieceofcloth]

uhh, what does this mean:
"The threads were not the same as oem so I had to tap them out."

The holes in the pan were not the same location? or you tapped new threads in the ???
The only threads in a pan would be for the turbo drain.

The threads for the oil drain were not oem 6x100 thread. They were like a standard size. I don't have any standard bolts around me, just loads of metric.

 

[Justin DuBois]

The threads for the oil drain were not oem 6x100 thread. They were like a standard size. I don't have any standard bolts around me, just loads of metric.

Where did you find this pan with non-metric threads? What car was it for?

 

[pieceofcloth]

I just ordered it from rockauto.

SPECTRA PREMIUM

CRP14B

I didn't notice until it was time to hook the drain up. The oem bolts wouldn't go in. I ordered for a 6 bolt. It looked like a silver cylinder with threads was welded in there. Something similar if someone would have repaired the threads. I was not about to remove the pan and go through the return process. It's not leaking and works fine.

 

[pieceofcloth]

There has to be a huge reason for all this bs. My turbo drain is leaking by the oil pan so I was going to remove the new oil and put a new gasket on the drain. The muthrfucn drain bolt on the oil pan is fucn welded on this pos.

I have to do a fucn return to rock pos auto and they say need the original manufactor box. I don't have that shyt. I'm just going to send it back in a box. If they domt take it back, I'll email the manufacturer and never do business again with either company.

I just removed whatever oil I could thru the turbo drain, making a mess all over the floor. I took off the pan and will clean the surfaces tomorrow. I have in the return authorization to send me a replacement which they said they would as soon as they see the tracking info gone thru. Again, if they don't honor this shyt, I'll get a replacement from rixx or somewhere else.

I just picked up the jb weld to fix that tiny leak and now I had to remove what I just applied. So much material is being waisted and I'm fucn annoyed. Imagine fighting an oil leak or leaks for 3 years. Could you do it? Would you do it? What's your drive? Mine is feeling 18lbs on a 16g 4 years ago and I've yet to fulfill or felt since. I must be in pain

 

[TalonFan]

I bought the same pan and have the same issue with the turbo drain connecting leaking at the pan. I have not tried to take the oil drain plug out yet.

I guess I will find out when I get out there to work on the car again. If this also happens to me, I'm guessing the new pan you will get will have the same issue. My old pan wasn't that bad, so I may just put it back on if this pan is such garbage. It's frustrating, though.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I bought the same pan and have the same issue with the turbo drain connecting leaking at the pan. I have not tried to take the oil drain plug out yet.

I guess I will find out when I get out there to work on the car again. If this also happens to me, I'm guessing the new pan you will get will have the same issue. My old pan wasn't that bad, so I may just put it back on if this pan is such garbage. It's frustrating, though.

Same shyt. The bolt has the over spray which didn't allow me to remove the drain. I'm not sure if I should try again. The last pan got stripped. This is the replacement pan. It just came in over the weekend.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I'm return this pos. Fucn rock auto pans. I really don't want to buy a used one.

 

[habitatguy187]

If you have the tools, it might just be easier to drill and tap a new drain plug

 

[pieceofcloth]

If you have the tools, it might just be easier to drill and tap a new drain plug

I have the tools and all but damn dawg, I be paying a lot to not do custom stuff. My brother said the same. To go ahead and wire brush it off. I just imagine if it continues to leak from the new tap then I'm screwed out of another 90. Ima see bro, I need to sleep on it. I just want to fix this mf leak.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Why not just use some paint stripper and strip the paint off the bolt and the surrounding area? Then you can just respray/touch up the areas with new paint.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Why not just use some paint stripper and strip the paint off the bolt and the surrounding area? Then you can just respray/touch up the areas with new paint.

It's already gone, I just sent it to FedEx and ordered another oem from rixx.

 

[DreamChaser7]

I'm return this pos. Fucn rock auto pans. I really don't want to buy a used one.

I got a new MAPerformance pan in the stockpile of parts to install. I don’t see much about them on here. Do people not like them?

 

[pieceofcloth]

I got a new MAPerformance pan in the stockpile of parts to install. I don’t see much about them on here. Do people not like them?

90 percent of these guys prefer oem over everything. Hell, you probably do too. And like most, we run to rockauto for convenience. I figured ok, I'd get a "new" pan for bill. I have seen the maperformance brand but I wasn't sure if it's the same brand that rockauto is selling or if it's a "map" brand. If the map brand works, that's bad ass but I highly doubt people will all of sudden start using them. How did you go about buying that brand? Did some one recommend it?

 

[DreamChaser7]

90 percent of these guys prefer oem over everything. Hell, you probably do too. And like most, we run to rockauto for convenience. I figured ok, I'd get a "new" pan for bill. I have seen the maperformance brand but I wasn't sure if it's the same brand that rockauto is selling or if it's a "map" brand. If the map brand works, that's bad ass but I highly doubt people will all of sudden start using them. How did you go about buying that brand? Did some one recommend it?

It’s a legit MAP brand pan I bought directly from them, and it seems pretty boss. Honestly it’s one of the first parts I stumbled upon about 4-5 years ago when I finally got to the point I could start spending money on this thing and just bought it as their description on their website seemed promising.

 

[pieceofcloth]

It’s a legit MAP brand pan I bought directly from them, and it seems pretty boss. Honestly it’s one of the first parts I stumbled upon about 4-5 years ago when I finally got to the point I could start spending money on this thing and just bought it as their description on their website seemed promising.

If this used oem doesn't work for whatever reason, I'll try the map brand. I used grey rtv last time. This guy who worked on my transmission recommended the black

 

[TalonFan]

I got out to the garage again this weekend. I was able to get the oil return line to seal by getting rid of the gasket and using a small amount of rtv (not my preference) I also added a bit of thread sealant to the bolts.
As for the plug, I removed the paint from the nut and used a 1/2 inch socket to loosen the plug.

It will do.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Like what the fuq am i supposed to do? Same fucn results. Why would there be so much pressure for it leak? I've hit the lip up, changed every fucn thing on pos, oil pressure norm at 80 idle. I've been fighting this for fucn 5 plus years. I'm fucn lost and wish I could think of other ideas. I'm not looking for sympathy, I want results

 

[Justin DuBois]

Like what the fuq am i supposed to do? Same fucn results. Why would there be so much pressure for it leak? I've hit the lip up, changed every fucn thing on pos, oil pressure norm at 80 idle. I've been fighting this for fucn 5 plus years. I'm fucn lost and wish I could think of other ideas. I'm not looking for sympathy, I want results

Sorry about the frustration - I sympathize with your situation. 80psi at idle? When cold? I sure hope that's not a hot oil at idle pressure.

Are you thinking the oil is leaking past the crank seal and dripping between the timing cover and the front case?

 

[pieceofcloth]

Sorry about the frustration - I sympathize with your situation. 80psi at idle? When cold? I sure hope that's not a hot oil pressure.

Are you thinking the oil is leaking past the crank seal and dripping between the timing cover and the front case?

The temperature and oil pressure are normal at cold and warm and while driving/idle. The crank has been replaced with another oem, and I've put roughly 5 different seals maybe 3 of them were oem. I just finished smashing that little lip up just bit more, I feel. It's only at that little lip. It doesn't happen when idling. I warmed it up, took around the block(4 stop signs) and put it in the garage to see an update.


The last update was the 75 dollar silicone gasket. I've done paper, none, rtv, you name it. It's all documented.

Since the silicone gasket, it looked very very promising and I do feel I've narrowed it to that little lip area. I've had the covers off while on as well. The videos are here.

It once was the crank seal, again it's been replaced as well as the crank. The pan is oem and is the 2nd pan I've tried.


This is getting old, especially telling this story. It's not you, I'm just tired of telling it and I feel like I'm bytchn so I want to stop.

I'm going to use the right stuff sealant some of these guys recommended, just on around that lip. Ill put it on tomorrow. I'm not removing the pan. I wish I could get this welded shut.


after writing this all out again, I wish I wouldn't have posted this update.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Sorry about the frustration - I sympathize with your situation. 80psi at idle? When cold? I sure hope that's not a hot oil pressure.

Are you thinking the oil is leaking past the crank seal and dripping between the timing cover and the front case?

Thank you for your reply though. I'm not coming at you so please don't feel that way. I really appreciate all you guys here. I know you've all been and/or are goin thru what I am so I keep going. I'm just chasing this high i witness 5 years ago. I need 18+lbs!

 

[jesse12345]

I feel like I went through this same issue. I replaced every gasket even my cam seals and it's still juicy in that spot. There's no drips on the ground so I just deal with it. I know your frustration though.

 

[DarkStalker]

I must say I've been putting off replacing my oil pan but after reading what you have been going through I literally have no excuse other than being lazy. Keep up the fight, it's motivating to see your unparalleled determination in resolving this.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Weather cleared up and wanted to see if it was fixed, and no. The belt was washed more than ever. Anyways, I took it apart for the millionth time and decided to prime and walla


Dude I think this it

 

[pieceofcloth]

I honestly think all of the previous maintenance I've done was required. The crank seal was once leaking, the crank was once bad, the oil pan was damaged by lip and even using various pan gaskets and rtv to get it sealed.


I've primed the oil pump without the belt on before but, I have always had the tensioner on. With everything off, I gave it another try and fresh oil poured out of that hole.

I've read about it many time but maybe overlooked it because it was one of those "rare" occasions but possible. I don't know.

I didn't have thread sealant so I used the yellow tape for oils and gas along with a touch of "the right stuff" on the outer edge. I primed the pump again for a while and I don't see anything bleeding.

While drying my belt I noticed these threads coming loose. I don't want to take any chances. I believe this is a gates belt. Maybe I'll upgrade or try to find an oem but I don't feel safe with this on. Thank you guys again

 

[19Eclipse90]

The front case gasket is bad / not sealed if it’s leaking from that hole. Maybe you’ve sealed it well enough now to pacify yourself, but that would be the root cause.

Photo borrowed from @techboy , but the indicated hole is the lower tensioner bolt hole.

It does not go to an oil passage. It leaks from the passage above it (which is straight from the pump) into that bolt hole when the front case gasket is not sealed around it.

Not trying to be a Debbie-Downer or Negative Nancy but figured it should be mentioned.