EgoThief

[pieceofcloth]

Perfect! Thanks for clarifying. I'll add a gasket to the checkout.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Perfect! Thanks for clarifying. I'll add a gasket to the checkout.

The bolt helps seal the gasket - you need it squishing the front case down. You can put all front case components on without the belt, and do the same test spinning the oil pump to look for leaks. Your gasket "might" be fine.

 

[DSMPT]

View attachment 761478View attachment 761479View attachment 761480

I honestly think all of the previous maintenance I've done was required. The crank seal was once leaking, the crank was once bad, the oil pan was damaged by lip and even using various pan gaskets and rtv to get it sealed.


I've primed the oil pump without the belt on before but, I have always had the tensioner on. With everything off, I gave it another try and fresh oil poured out of that hole.

I've read about it many time but maybe overlooked it because it was one of those "rare" occasions but possible. I don't know.

I didn't have thread sealant so I used the yellow tape for oils and gas along with a touch of "the right stuff" on the outer edge. I primed the pump again for a while and I don't see anything bleeding.

While drying my belt I noticed these threads coming loose. I don't want to take any chances. I believe this is a gates belt. Maybe I'll upgrade or try to find an oem but I don't feel safe with this on. Thank you guys again

Oil would still leak from the blue line. You should slightly apply RTV under bolt head too.
The tensioner bolt holes are one common spot to leak. When I see oil seeping from there, I always slightly apply RTV between the tensioner flange and front cace, and the tensioner flange and under bolt head to seal better.

 

[pieceofcloth]

The bolt helps seal the gasket - you need it squishing the front case down. You can put all front case components on without the belt, and do the same test spinning the oil pump to look for leaks. Your gasket "might" be fine.

Thank you, I'll give this a try!

Oil would still leak from the blue line. You should slightly apply RTV under bolt head too.
The tensioner bolt holes are one common spot to leak. When I see oil seeping from there, I always slightly apply RTV between the tensioner flange and front cace, and the tensioner flange and under bolt head to seal better.
View attachment 761497

For sure, I'll add some up there too. Thank you !

 

[pieceofcloth]

I put this thing back together yesterday & took it for a drive today. Same issue, I'll tear it apart now

 

[jesse12345]

Man I can feel your pain. You'll get it though. I've been dealing with the power steering that I've taken apart at least 5 times. No matter what I do it constantly leaks. The only plus side to my leak is it's alot easier to try to fix.

 

[pieceofcloth]

 

[pieceofcloth]

 

[jesse12345]

I think you finally figured it out. You've got to be a pro by now yanking the timing side apart.
If it gives you any sort of closure/peace, I fixed my power steering leak ( I hope) but I have the world's nastiest transfer case leak. Leaks on leaks, it's what I live for. Your not alone by any stretch.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I think you finally figured it out. You've got to be a pro by now yanking the timing side apart.
If it gives you any sort of closure/peace, I fixed my power steering leak ( I hope) but I have the world's nastiest transfer case leak. Leaks on leaks, it's what I live for. Your not alone by any stretch.

Thank you. I ordered the oem seal from extreme. I had some points saved up so I only had to pay shipping. I appreciate you

 

[pieceofcloth]

This thing still leaks. I've added dye and went over it. It'll only spill when vehicle is warm and running. Driving the oil pump doesn't show any spill. The crank seal seems to be the issue, again. I'll tie the spring a couple of notches this time to make it tighter. I've added rtv all over and it works, except from the crank seal.

I know I have my alignment dowel pins, yes the spacing is even around the crank. The only thing after this would be getting an oem front plate, checking the dowels for alignment and try again.

Here's some pics of the flood

 

[pieceofcloth]

Mechanics special, I'm done with this pos.
I can't seem to fix this. One of you can purchase the entire thing as is, running and tuned or I'll just tear it all apart and throw it away

 

[Justin DuBois]

Mechanics special, I'm done with this pos.
I can't seem to fix this. One of you can purchase the entire thing as is, running and tuned or I'll just tear it all apart and throw it away

Take a deep breath.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I don't see anything. I only imagine there's a Crack and it seeps out. I don't see a leak from crank seal.

 

[Justin DuBois]

You can put a power drill on the pump sprocket and spin it to make oil pressure. You might see something now that the timing covers are off.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I'll pick up some gaskets and try to find me a decent oem front plate. I have no scoring on my crank. Both dowels are there.

 

[pieceofcloth]

I ordered an oem plate and it was cracked so I had got a refund. Purchased an acl brand again and got the oem stubby in. Rtvd the castle nut incase. I do.have the oem seals but I want to run these first to see what happens.

I'll let this stuff dry over night, and install tomorrow. I also installed this new fuel filter and a 40 micron in it. Using the adapters the make our own fuel lines to 6an. So it's 6an from oem to rail. I picked up a rail adapter as well.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I ordered an oem plate and it was cracked so I had got a refund. Purchased an acl brand again and got the oem stubby in. Rtvd the castle nut incase. I do.have the oem seals but I want to run these first to see what happens.

I'll let this stuff dry over night, and install tomorrow. I also installed this new fuel filter and a 40 micron in it. Using the adapters the make our own fuel lines to 6an. So it's 6an from oem to rail. I picked up a rail adapter as well.

View attachment 769754View attachment 769755View attachment 769756View attachment 769757View attachment 769758

The rtv sad face made me laugh more than it should. I do stuff like that all the time.

Here’s my drawing I made on our chalkboard after a bad night of work.

But hopefully this time is it!

 

[pieceofcloth]

I went ahead and started it up. It turned on no problem. I just drove it up the block, didn't get on it. I hit maybe 45mph but Something from underneath or I think I left something on the wing, fell off. Probably just a roll of black tape, but I thought my car was falling apart so I brought it back home

anyways I checked for leaks and nothing. My belt is super dry and so is the floor. Before I get excited which I probably won't , I want to test drive It this weekend for a good 30mins and record the cruise to see what's goin on.

 

[pieceofcloth]

i have two vehicles with two different setups. i use the same laptop to adjust whatever is needed. I haven't been able to touch ecmlink in about 3 years cause of this leak.

within the 3 years i've upgraded to a fpgreen from a 16g. Here are some logs Iof this little cruise I did around here. i dont know what the fuc i'm doin and i hate that. can some one look at this shyt and recommend me my next step? thanks

 

[pieceofcloth]

Is it true you can't do boost by gear in a 1g?? I just installed this 3port, and I don't see the options like in the 2g videos, within ecmlink.

If I have to use a manual boost controller, this build is such a waste.


I finally got this car down to 0 leaks. Not a single drop. The issue is this thing is so sluggish, it's trash. I need to get this up to 20# or more. Under 4500, it's boring

5k and the 10lb wastegate isn't enough to push these 280s.
(Fpgreen)

 

[CrackedDSM]

Is it true you can't do boost by gear in a 1g?? I just installed this 3port, and I don't see the options like in the 2g videos, within ecmlink.

If I have to use a manual boost controller, this build is such a waste.


I finally got this car down to 0 leaks. Not a single drop. The issue is this thing is so sluggish, it's trash. I need to get this up to 20# or more. Under 4500, it's boring

5k and the 10lb wastegate isn't enough to push these 280s.
(Fpgreen)

Either update your firmware, or double check you have ECMLink V3 Full and not the Lite version. I don't even see the option for WGS in your DA tables or Boost(WGS) in your configs. Otherwise, you can use boost by gear for 1Gs just fine.

Attached below are SS' of my 1G's ECMLink config and DA tables so you can see what's missing from yours. It looks like you have V3 Lite.

 

[pieceofcloth]

Either update your firmware, or double check you have ECMLink V3 Full and not the Lite version. I don't even see the option for WGS in your DA tables or Boost(WGS) in your configs. Otherwise, you can use boost by gear for 1Gs just fine.

Attached below are SS' of my 1G's ECMLink config and DA tables so you can see what's missing from yours. It looks like you have V3 Lite.

View attachment 772081
View attachment 772082

Right on, thank you !!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Is it true you can't do boost by gear in a 1g?? I just installed this 3port, and I don't see the options like in the 2g videos, within ecmlink.

If I have to use a manual boost controller, this build is such a waste.


I finally got this car down to 0 leaks. Not a single drop. The issue is this thing is so sluggish, it's trash. I need to get this up to 20# or more. Under 4500, it's boring

5k and the 10lb wastegate isn't enough to push these 280s.
(Fpgreen)

I’m curious - I’ll take a look at those logs

 

[Justin DuBois]

i have two vehicles with two different setups. i use the same laptop to adjust whatever is needed. I haven't been able to touch ecmlink in about 3 years cause of this leak.

within the 3 years i've upgraded to a fpgreen from a 16g. Here are some logs Iof this little cruise I did around here. i dont know what the fuc i'm doin and i hate that. can some one look at this shyt and recommend me my next step? thanks

It looks like you have a 2G MAF, but your MAF comp is set for Stock. I think you can use global fuel adjustment to zero out the WOT parts of this graph.

You can also play with your global dead time (injector voltage offsets) to tune the idle/closed loop portions of the MAF comp.

Antilag is enabled - does it work for you? I've never figured this out.

I don't see a MAP sensor configured as a input pin assignment.

Your DA tables have non-stock open loop thresholds configured. Is this temporary?

And I noticed you have a large adjustment to your injector voltage adjust table. How did you come by these numbers?