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Drag Week 2G DSM - 8 Second Street Car

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Not if you want to also incorporate the stock cars vacuum into the system, I want to only use the pump when the engine is not providing enough vacuum AND the booster is low on vacuum, I cant have the pump sucking on the intake system for the car so a check valve there, a check valve in the stock booster location and a check valve to keep the cars intake from sucking air through the pump causing a vacuum leak...thats IF I'm remembering things correctly, I did this like 3 years ago, but I know I have at least three check valves total, as I said I dont want to have to interact with anything to have power brakes such as switches or buttons and also I dont want to tie up inputs or outputs to my ecu for something so elementary, there isn't enough as it is.
This is how I did mine with 2 check valves. The mapsensor you see in the picture, is for the brake vacuum only. I must use 1 digital input (OD-button), 1 analog input (map sensor) and 1 aux output (vacuum pump relay). I have plenty extra I/O also in my ecu. Works fine:
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This is how I did mine with 2 check valves. The mapsensor you see in the picture, is for the brake vacuum only. I must use 1 digital input (OD-button), 1 analog input (map sensor) and 1 aux output (vacuum pump relay). I have plenty extra I/O also in my ecu. Works fine:View attachment 564410
Are you still leaving the stock hidden check valve? if you havent removed it, its still in the line which would total three check valves just like mine.
 
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Are you still leaving the stock hidden check valve? if you havent removed it, its still in the line which would total three check valves just like mine.
The hidden stock check valve is still in the hose and is drawn in the picture. It is in the hose from the intake to one of the T-piece you see in the picture. 2 check valves in total. See updated picture.
 
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Keep in mind that I run 8 fuel injectors and an ethanol content sensor, wideband, boost control and a few other things, this ties up most of my inputs/outputs. I will have to go look at the car to figure out why it needs the other check valve, it may have to do with me running a mechanical switch and not a map sensor and/or for hysteresis reasons, I like the idea of being able to swap back to the flashable ecu at any time with a simple injector harness switch, so I keep the car able to do that in case I would get away from home and have an ecu failure since I dont carry a spare $2000 aftermarket ecu with me, but I DO carry a spare flashable and a spare eprom in the trunk for when I go to the shootout etc, this is another reason why I didnt want the ecu to have anything to do with the power brakes, I also have electric power steering, I like having brakes and steering without the engine running in case I ever needed it.
 
That muffler is probably my favorite part on my car, I’ve had it for years and I hate that others are now discovering it! Haha. It’s a vibrant 4” in dual 3” outlet. One of my good friends is basically copying my exhaust exactly and it upsets me. :/



Thanks!



I’m actually using the vacuum pump for brakes, not the crank case. I’ll have a more conventional open catch can for the crank case. It can be difficult to have adequate suction for high boost to run a vacuum pump on these motors from my experience. It can be done though.

Dang it, I had a feeling that was the case. I actually have the vibrant 3 inch single in 3 inch single out on my Dsm. I was hoping yours was a 3.5 in dual 2.5 out as I think 4 is overkill for my needs. I do like the sound of my Dsm though so I agree with you there.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates the last couple weeks. I’ve been traveling a bunch for work so it slowed work on the car slightly, but its still progressing.

My dad recently buttoned up my engine. There’s one part I need to finish it up and I also need to get my intake cam tapped because I’m going to run a 2G CAS. Then I’ll degree the cams in and the engine will be ready to drop in.

The engine is the same engine that was in the car for the past few years. It’s a turbo4.com 2.0 with Wiseco pistons and aluminum rods. Kiggly girdle, ARP mains, etc. I had a bad time with money shifts in the car with the dog box. I found that when the car got loose during acceleration, my focus would be more on steering than the shift and the dreaded 1-2-1 or 2-3-2 would happen. I think this motor saw at least 5 misshifts, all occurring above 9000 RPM which takes the engine into the 12-14k RPM range. That’s the sole reason I decided to tear the engine down and go through it. Amazingly, it all looked perfect, minus the couple rockers it threw on the last misshift.

The head is a custom CNC ported head, Kiggly bee-hive springs and I’m switching to smaller Kelford cams now (I was on the FP5R/11’s before). I’m also using a DVDT Fab sheet metal intake with 8 Fuel Injector Clinic Injectors.

While I had the engine apart, I decided to do the Kiggly oil pickup mod. It was such a pain to try to weld on crappy oil pickup. I spent a bunch of time cleaning it but I couldn’t get all the oil out and it made welding a nightmare. I’m definitely not a pro welder either, I’m just a self-taught welder from youtube videos. I finished off the bottom end with a new 90 oil filter housing for the external oil cooler and a brand new oil pan. I think that covers most of the engine stuff for now, feel free to ask any questions.

Notice the Backyard Bandit in the background. :)

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As always, thank you to the companies that support this, be sure to follow their social media pages like their images and buy their products:
http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com
http://www.extremepsi.com
http://www.tialsport.com
http://www.xonarotor.com
http://www.haltech.com
http://www.turbo4.com
 
It’s time for some new parts! I have to give a HUGE thank you to Xona Rotor for this incredibly beautiful XR 105 68 turbocharger. The turbo is a work of art and I can’t wait to run it. It goes along perfectly with the custom engraved Tial MV-S 38mm waste gates.

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I decided to install the springs in the waste gate today, they come with a variety of springs for everything from .3 bar to 1.7 bar of base pressure. I decided to install 1 bar worth of spring. In my experience when running a boost control solenoid and applying boost pressure to the top of the gate, you can still run a lot of boost, more than I should need. I can add more spring if I find a boost limit with this setup. On the newer MV-S gates, the red and black springs give you 1 bar.

Compressing the springs can be challenging so I setup an Irwin clamp in my vice with a block of wood to compress the gate. I taped the top to prevent any scratching. This ended up working out really well and made this an easy one-person job.

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Once that was done, I installed the gates and turbo to my old school Shearer Fab header. If you are interested in this header, hit up Morrison Fab. They took over the Shearer headers and make some cool new headers now too. I didn’t have the right size snap ring pliers so I wasn’t able to clock the compressor cover yet but I’ll do that in the next week.

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As always, thank you to the companies that support this, be sure to follow their social media pages like their images and buy their products:

http://www.fuelinjectorclinic.com

http://www.extremepsi.com

http://www.tialsport.com

http://www.xonarotor.com

http://www.haltech.com

http://www.turbo4.com
 
Looking good! Was that divided T4 turbine housing an option with the xona rotor turbo? I have an FP super99 and would like to try a divided T4 housing for it, but thought it wasn't available for this turbo? I thought the Xona 105-68 was basically the same as the super99? Please enlighten me.
 
Looking good! Was that divided T4 turbine housing an option with the xona rotor turbo? I have an FP super99 and would like to try a divided T4 housing for it, but thought it wasn't available for this turbo? I thought the Xona 105-68 was basically the same as the super99? Please enlighten me.

The turbine housing was a custom ordered item. I’m not sure if that’s a readily available option.
 
I emailed FP and that divided turbine housing is not available. For my application (FP super99) I would love to find one of the old FP divided housings or something compatible to try that out. Or, if tial/Xona rotor will offer it I would go that route.
 
I don’t have any big updates because I’ve been gathering parts so I’ll just take some time to talk about some of the parts I’ve been gathering.


As you saw in the previous post, I have a new Xona Rotor XR 105 68 turbocharger for the car. The thing is beautiful, I can’t wait to get the engine in the car so I can mount it. I’m so glad to have Xona Rotor on board for this project, they’ve been amazing to work with.

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I also got a new set of TiAl MV-S Wastegates and a pair of Tial Q BOV’s. These were custom engraved by TiAl with my turbo4.com logo on them and they look killer.

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I got my Fuel Injector Clinic 2150’s cleaned by FIC and back here. I’ve had these injectors a long time, FIC has since changed their adapter arrangement for more connector clearance but what I have works just fine for me.

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I also got my Haltech Elite 2500 for the car and started the wiring using Haltech’s premium unterminated harness. This is the same ECU and harness I use in the dragster.

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I got a bunch of Kiggly goodies but the only one I have a picture of at the moment is the crank trigger. You can see the main girdle in the previous post I made. I also have the oil pressure modifier and Kiggly’s Front Clutch Basket.

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Here’s my Precision converter that I’ll be using. This is a Precision #6 converter in their token purple color.

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Here’s what I’m using for both my engine oil cooler and transmission cooler. I purchased two of these Derale fluid coolers and I’ll be mounting them in the side openings

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And here’s my random rack of parts. You’ll notice some manual parts here too because I also have a dogbox for this car that may or may not go back in after Drag Week.

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Awesome build man. I plan on running a Haltech 1500 in my car with drive by wire. Just a fyi to everyone a 4g eclipse e throttle body bolts right up to a stock dsm manifold. It requires some porting because the 4g gt throttle body has a larger diameter but it has the same bolt pattern. I am going to be running a 4g eclipse pedal also. Keep up the awesome work man.
 
Don't think anyone really complains about the quality of the parts they put out, but recently I've seen a lot of complaints from folks about the given times that it'll take to get a part to a customer and the actual time. Some folks waiting up to a year. Who wants to wait that long?

They have some nice parts but I'd rather get used parts or from somewhere else before I wait that long on an order.
Mines was 6 months sometimes I think I should order extra and sell at a profit..
 
Absolutely enjoy following your build! Your dragweekdsm site is so well done as well. It’s nice to have an outlet where everyone has an opportunity to speak directly to with questions they may have. The amount of time you’re dedicating to the build is awe inspiring.
 
Absolutely enjoy following your build! Your dragweekdsm site is so well done as well. It’s nice to have an outlet where everyone has an opportunity to speak directly to with questions they may have. The amount of time you’re dedicating to the build is awe inspiring.

Thanks! I'm glad to hear you're following along here and on my website! Please share with your DSM friends. I've been posting a bunch on my instagram also: @tony_turbo4

I'm WAY behind on posting but I'm planning on catching up some this weekend. I've been working around the clock on the car because Drag Week is rapidly approaching.

Stay tuned!
 
any updates on this? i seen where you guys got it running and seen on you instagram where you were unloading the first day of dragweek but never seen any results from it?
 
Sorry for the lack of updates. The build got crazy in the last couple months getting ready for the race. I'm going to make some posts now to catch everyone up.

The cliff notes are: I worked around the clock the last couple months getting the car done and working through some issues, parts delays, etc. I got the car running about 1 week prior to Drag Week and driving the Friday before leaving for Drag Week. The car saw zero boost, only a couple miles of street driving before packing up to head to Virginia. I was trying to creep up on things slow but in the thrash of everything, I made a mistake somewhere along the way. I believe in my haste of getting the car running quickly, I did set the base timing properly. This is something I normally would have gone back and checked just to be safe but I was out of time. The car ended up torching the head gasket on only the third pass getting into boost. I had a head gasket with me but it hurt the head also when it let go, I didn't have a spare head.

The car is home now and I'm already planning the new engine. I'll get it back together soon and start getting it ready for Drag Week 2020. I'll also finally catch up on this blog that I've neglected.

So, time to rewind since as of my last post, there wasn't even an engine in the car!
 
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