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ECMlink Difficulties adjusting idle

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Turbodhi

Proven Member
115
10
Oct 18, 2015
Olathe, Kansas
I'm having a hell of a time getting the iscposition and learnedidleadjust set correctly. I took it out and made sure it's clean, the throttle body was recently rebuilt, tps is adjusted properly as far as I can tell. This is my first attempt at "tuning" so I'm trying to go through the checklist and make sure everything is right. It seems like I can adjust it close but never to 140 for idleadj and 30 for iscposition. 1/8 of a turn and suddenly it cranks the isc all the way to 100, then all the way to 0 if I adjust it in the opposite direction. I tested the coils on the isc and they all came out to 30 ohms which is good as far as I was able to read. Am I missing something? I can post a log if you guys think that would help
 

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  • log.2021.03.29-01.elg
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The TPS adjustment is a little bit off, should correct it. And also you should check the stop screw position. Please refer the pic below. And of course double check for vacuum/boost leak.
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cool thanks, I'll see about fixing that up tomorrow on my lunch break
 
1) Idle looks pretty solid to me. I always enable simulate idle switch with tps but you're probably fine. Reset tps correctly as previously mentioned. If you want to reset learned idle and isc to get it perfect then warm the car up, turn the car off, turn the car on without engine and unplug isc, turn car off, plug isc back and restart car. This will reset the isc and learnedidle. Immediately start adjusting idle to perfect spot.
2) Car is super lean and needs a ton of fuel.
3) Save your wideband under pin assignments on the front o2 on then click save assignment. Start capturing and logging wideband.
 
@DSMPT TPS has been adjusted to read .63v which should be correct from what I've read and the stop screw should now be within tolerance.
@TK's9d2TSi I called the autopart store and ordered one should be here later, thanks for the heads up
@Vegas Smith 1) I'll warm the car up and and do that after work today
2) what are you seeing that says it's super lean, I'm still learning so it looks like you're seeing something i'm not and would appreciate pointing me in the right direction.
3) I'll save that pin assignment after work today as well
 
@DSMPT TPS has been adjusted to read .63v which should be correct from what I've read and the stop screw should now be within tolerance.
@TK's9d2TSi I called the autopart store and ordered one should be here later, thanks for the heads up
@Vegas Smith 1) I'll warm the car up and and do that after work today
2) what are you seeing that says it's super lean, I'm still learning so it looks like you're seeing something i'm not and would appreciate pointing me in the right direction.
3) I'll save that pin assignment after work today as well
Your combined and short-term fuel-trims and heavy positive which indicates it wants more fuel. If those numbers are negative then it's demanding less fuel.
 
Your combined and short-term fuel-trims and heavy positive which indicates it wants more fuel. If those numbers are negative then it's demanding less fuel.
Ok, after doing some reading into what might be causing my trims, I have a feeling it's going to be my air metering needs to be calibrated again (properly this time). I gave it a shot once but I don't think it was done well/properly.
 
@Vegas Smith I tried to set the ISC like you told me to and also by using step 14 on this guide which looks like it was posted by you now that I check. I still need to work on it.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-book-of-random-tuning-tips.511262/

I decided to try to track down the fuel trim issues and I think I got it figured out. I think the issue was with my MAF comp sliders. I adjusted the first point and smoothed out the transitions between the first few and it looked like it brought my fuel trims down close to zero. I reset the fuel trims then went for some driving.
 

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  • log.2021.03.30-06.elg
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I don't know if you have the idle squared away but I had an obnoxious idle I couldn't tame till she members pointed me towards the throttle stop screw and that fixed it.
yeah the fellas up above mentioned that and I got that sorted along with the TPS today during my lunch break.
 
Keep a closer eye on your coolant temps. The ECU would be pulling a few degrees retard with that high of a coolant temp. Are your fans kicking on? I would not be comfortable with that temp on my car.
 
Keep a closer eye on your coolant temps. The ECU would be pulling a few degrees retard with that high of a coolant temp. Are your fans kicking on? I would not be comfortable with that temp on my car.
Yeah it started overheating at the end there, It did that as I was shutting down the car. It was too hot for me to touch so I let it cool down and I'll check it tomorrow. I recently replaced the water pump, I bled the system but I'm wondering if it might have found some air. I also bought a replacement water temp sensor this afternoon but it was too hot to replace.

Working from home means I don't drive this thing often so I'm just now finding out about it.
 
Well a small update. I replaced the temp sensor over lunch, found a small coolant leak that I fixed by tightening a hose clamp and filled the cooling system.
Then I turned the car on and it was SUPER rich. The AEM wouldn't read that low. Checked in link and the coolant temp was reading 34 degrees which isn't remotely close considering ambient temperature was 60 today. Looks like I bought the wrong one. I ordered a replacement and it'll be in tomorrow.
 
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Bring down your 0 & 50hz sliders in MAF comp to lower your airflowperrev to .25. Then adjust deadtime to get combinedFT close to zero. Yeah that's too hot, you need to look into that.
I figured that was the issue. I'll work on that today. The temp thing was because of small coolant leak that I didn't know I had. I've been working from home so I don't drive this thing that often right now so I just now found out about it. That should now be fixed but I need to swap out my coolant temp sensor for the proper one today at lunch. The one I bought is reading WAY too low.
 
Check the wiring connector. Maybe you damaged it and it's no longer sending a signal.
It looked alright when I put the newer one in, I'll double check it when I get the correct sensor in later today. thanks for the heads up!

I'm excited to get this thing squared away, I've never done any kind of tuning and it's interesting to see all of the changes you can make to this thing!
 
Check the wiring connector. Maybe you damaged it and it's no longer sending a signal.
I checked the wire and it looked fine. I swapped the sensor for the new one and it instantly started reading about 34 degrees warmer so it's MUCH better.

@TK's9d2TSi I'll check that after work
 
New update
@Vegas Smith the new coolant sensor seems to be holding steady, connector and wires are looking fine too after double checking, coolant leaks have been fixed and it doesn't seem to be having heating issues.

@TK's9d2TSi 0 and 50Hz sliders have been brought down to give me .25 airflow/rev and global deadtime increased to compensate and bring my combinedft as close to 0 as I was able to get it.

Idle is feeling smoother, throttle response I think feels smoother. I think it was stumbling a bit when trying to accelerate after a shift and I think most of that is gone now. I managed to bring the ISC position down to 52 ish and learnedidleadj to 173. I don't think that is captured in this log but I'm giving it some time to settle.
 

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  • log.2021.04.02-03.elg
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