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2G Deleting ABS

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onefast2gdsm

15+ Year Contributor
866
6
Aug 30, 2010
millersburg, Pennsylvania
Deleting the abs in my car because its not working. I already have a non abs proportioning valve, does anybody know what size brake line I need, as well as lengths and what fittings? This is on a 96 gst
 
maybe not the answer you are looking for but the best option is to:
1-remove the abs proportioning valve
2- remove all lines leading to the abs unit from the prop valve.
3-remove the abs unit
4-KEEP the rear brake hard lines as they remain unchanged.
5-go to a junk yard and get the front left and right NON abs hard lines from any NON abs dsm (turbo or n/t)
6-install them on your car and attach the lines to your prop valve, bleed and have fun.

* forgot to add the hardlines from a non abs from the master cylinder to the non abs proportioning valve.

I also deleted the ABS ecu and wiring but thats just because I was in between a major build, you can leave everything unplugged in place and you will be fine. you will get a light on the dash but you can remove it and call it a day.

EDIT: I attached some old pics for you, basically im showing you what you need in the picture with the proportioning valve and lines and the other picture is showing what you take off.
 

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OK Why are you removing everything- to save weight?

If ABS does not pass self test, it fails to regular non-abs brakes. Just my opinion, but it seems like a lot of work to get the same results.
Just take the bulb out of the gauge cluster, the first test ABS does is a bulb check - no bulb - fail to non-abs.
 
A guy can NOT just pull the fuse or the light-bulb and call it a day. If your gonna convert to a non ABS the your deffinatley on the correct path of switching lines and preportioning valve.

I too converted my 2G DSM from a ABS to a non ABS. I did this for a couple a reasons.first was weight, second was free up space, third was because I did a full wire tuck and powersteering tuck. But the biggest reason for the switch was this, the drivers with their street/race car that have ABS are ultimatley at a disadvantage. They do not have to master the difficult pedal technuiqe required to stop a car at its thresh hold of lockin em up.

That pedal pressure "sweet spot" can't be mastered with ABS. And I don't care what any one says, no ABS in the world can out perform the right foot of a trully skilled driver.

To put it bluntly, ABS is for ####ies. Period.

I'd keep it on my family car, I'd have it on the mini van with all the kids in it or what ever, but for a racecar, ABS sucks a fat one.

As far as the switch goes, yes the hard lines to the back brakes stay in put, the primary and secondary lanes from the master can be re-used and re-bent to work. The front lines are the ones you'll have to track down.

The brain box that is mounted under the pass side floor panel can also be deleted. That makes a perfect spot for relocating wires and what not if you do a wire tuck.

Goodluck.
 
A guy can NOT just pull the fuse or the light-bulb and call it a day.
Goodluck.

really guy? you must have not read anything before that statement. no one here said JUST pull the bulb out and call it a day. why have a bulb lit for a system that is not present? :ohdamn:
 
Re-read what the dude gorf or what ever said, sounds like his advice was "why go thru all that trouble when you can just pull the bulb"

I wasn't responding to what you said.

I still stand by what I said about ABS is for pu$$ies tho
 
As far as the switch goes, yes the hard lines to the back brakes stay in put, the primary and secondary lanes from the master can be re-used and re-bent to work. The front lines are the ones you'll have to track down.
Exactly what I did, except I kept the driver side front line as well.

Is it possible to keep the front driver side line and just bend a new passenger side line on a 2G? might save some work if it is.
 
Just go to the local parts store and get 4 feet of line (take an old line in with you so they can get the right pitch and diameter for the screw part of it) for each side and bend them yourself. Thats what I did because I didnt have a non abs car to pull the lines from. Just get the end cripping tool as well so you can cut the lines to legnth.
 
now that memory serves me, i to re-used a front brake line and just rebent it, i wanna say that was the front driver side i was able to re-use. i know i scored a front pass side brake line off a non turbo 1g and made it work just fine.
 
Where is the ABS ECU located at? I plan on doing the non ABS swap when i install my brembro calipers/3g MC/3g Booster..

My ABS hasnt worked in 2years due to a bad wheel speed sensor. I pulled the fuse and the (anti-lock) bulb in the cluster and it worked just fine like that on my DD. I cant wait to finish the job by removing all that junk in the engine bay..
 
Where is the ABS ECU located at? I plan on doing the non ABS swap when i install my brembro calipers/3g MC/3g Booster..

My ABS hasnt worked in 2years due to a bad wheel speed sensor. I pulled the fuse and the (anti-lock) bulb in the cluster and it worked just fine like that on my DD. I cant wait to finish the job by removing all that junk in the engine bay..

Pull the carpet back on the passenger side in the front and then unbolt that metal cover and... VIOLA! there it is!
 
Re-read what the dude gorf or what ever said, sounds like his advice was "why go thru all that trouble when you can just pull the bulb"

That is what I said! Yes you can just pull the bulb or the fuse and disable it. ABS MUST fail back to regular non-abs brakes or the car manufacturer would be open to huge liability. With our cars the first test is a bulb test, take it out and you have non abs brakes. I drove my first Eclipse disabled like this for a couple of years - no problems.

Now if you want to clean up your engine compartment or lose a little weight - go for the total delete - its your car. It is probably the right thing to do and if your state does extensive safety inspections, it might be almost mandatory. In NC they only looked at the bulb, if on - fail. Take it out - pass.
 
why have your pedal pressure go through a pumper motor box that isnt even working? of course the brakes will still work. but its not the same as havin the primary and secondary lines go straight into a preportioning valve. the wasted fluid pressure going into a DEAD ABS box isnt correct.

all i was gettin at, do it right or dont do it at all.

if homie gets a check engine light he could just pull the bulb and problem solved too huh?

a ABS car should have every asspect of the system functioning correctly, cant just back woods hillbilly style pull the ABS fuse and call it a day cause the brakes "still work"

if dude wants to convert to a non ABS system then hell yeah, gets 2 thumbs up from me. just sayin, do it right or dont do it at all. converting to a non ABS valve is indeed the CORRECT method of doing this.
 
Ill be the hero here since no one has answered the question. The lines are 3/16, all fittings except for master cylinder are m10x1.0 inverted flare. That is including all the fittings on the p valve and all the hoses. Depending on the master you are using, they may or may not be that. But the valve and lines will all be.
 
I know it's an really old thread. But can't u just remove the bottom screws of the proportioning valve. Check pic

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Looks similar to extreme psi one. If those stock lines are old then it might be a good idea to replace with stainless steel ones.

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