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CRAracer05 ~ 94 Talon TSI

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Are you swapping auto trans parts from it? Nice find :thumb:
That is the plan now. My thoughts were depending on the condition I would get it running and fix it up or part it out. The lower front quarters are gone behind the body moldings so it's getting parted out. That and it has the typical front fender rot too. I really like manual but I think in order for me to actually race the car with any kind or reliability and enjoy it I need to go the auto swap route.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Couple updates...

Tonight I got the 92 Auto running with very little effort. I checked compression and 1,2,4 all had about 160-165psi, while number 3 had about 125psi. I put a little oil in there and cranked it over a bunch and retested. There was too much oil left and was at 200+ psi still. I cranked it over a few more times to clear it out, tested the spark and threw the plugs back in. The tank was empty so I put a couple gallons of premium in and then proceeded to crank it over after reconnecting the fuel pump. After about 5 seconds it fired right up. Took it out for a drive and everythign worked great besides the brakes, as they were very low on fluid and most likely have air in them now.

Another note I swapped out the Evo 9 oil line for a 12" unit from Summit.

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I also got tired of waiting for ETS to take care of my FMIC so I had secondary tabs welded on so I could jsut get this thing done.

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craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
I got inspired at the shootout and I ordered a new Magnus V3 manifold and S90 74mm throttle body today. I also have an FP intake and filter setup coming.

During the winter I'm going to have to start working on a new built bottom end and drivetrain parts.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Made some more progress on the car yesterday. I replaced all the radiator and heater hoses with fresh ones. I got the bumper cover trimmed out some more to clear the FMIC. Next I need to put my coil and transistor on the JMF bracket, change the fuel feed line from the filter, install my MAP sensor, install the flex fuel sensor, and replace all the vacuum lines.

Got my throttle body adapter bored to 74mm to match the throttle body.
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Added two bottom straps on the FMIC that tie into the lower radiator support.
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Made a new upper intercooler pipe hard 90 degree with AIT sensor bung.
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I see the shifter cables and the ISC housing becoming an issue with this setup next. I have a FIAV block off but I'm going to still run the ISC and it looks like that housing will go right where the shifter cables go now.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Man, I wish I could weld.
I've never welded aluminum nor do I have a setup for it at home. I run a large fabrication shop and I had someone that works for me do it with our aluminum spool gun. It's not as nice or precise as TIG but it was free. Some day I'd like to buy a small TIG setup, but I need to quit buying parts first.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Some more progress this weekend:

Coil pack mounted up:
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Flex fuel sensor installed:
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MAP Sensor mounted:
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Intercooler all mounted up:
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craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
I just can’t wait to see how that FP ZERO works out :hellyeah:
Ya I'm excited too, but I'm also not getting my hopes up right as I feel like my bottom end is going to hold me back right now. I'm planning to build a new shortblock over the winter. I'm really leaning towards a 2.0L long road with aluminum rods. Then when I swap the short block, I'll do the auto swap as well.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Ok, looking for some quick feedback after days of reading. Should I go with two small closed loop catch cans one for the PCV/intake manifold with a check valve and and one for the turbo intake or should I just go with a one big atmospheric vented catch can with two lines off the valve cover? What has worked for you guys best?
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
I vote 1 can, 2 -10 lines off the valve cover vented to atmosphere ftw :thumb:
That's what I had before (well I don't recall what size lines), but I had a crappy unbaffled can that would just push oil out the filter all over the can. I also had smoking on decel/off boost. I'm not sure if was a bad turbo drain or not having vacuum on the crankcase. I was thinking of going all closed loop, but I'm just nervous of sucking oil all thru my new FMIC and intake manifold. I was trying to look at some of the big cars (like Red Demon, Aaron Gregory, Jeff Bush) to see what they are doing but you can't really tell what all their lines are going to or if there are more than just the valve cover lines there.
 

1cleangsx

Proven Member
525
358
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
I can only relate to my own personal experience which was on my prior motor, which was a healthy, stock rebuild. As I was turning up the boost on my fp red, north of 30 psi I think, I blew the dipstick right out LOL. At first I thought I blew a head gasket OMG. At the time I was on the stock style sealed set up, pcv valve, and the vacuum line off the valve cover to the intake pipe. I knew I needed a catch can, and I always just liked the look of the big line “ vented” set ups. I know there’s some good Wright ups on sealed set ups, and it makes sense to have vacuum on the crank case, but to me it also makes sense to let it BREATHE LOL. After installing my RealStreetPerformance vented can, which is a very nice baffled piece, I NEVER had a crankcase/dipstick issue again. And it should be noted that my powder coated valve cover that’s currently on the car has no baffles, just a tab welded under the AN fitting ports. My catchcan would maybe have like a teaspoon of oil in after some ripping. Again, I had a healthy engine with good ring compression so I’m sure that helps, with your issue I would question your turbo drain and or blow by. Again I’m just posting how a vented set up worked for me, I’m sure others have had success on a sealed as well, it’s all personal preference I guess:thumb:
 

1cleangsx

Proven Member
525
358
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Also wanted to add if you’ve ever seen some high power cars doing dyno pulls, you can sometimes actually SEE the crankcase fumes exiting thru the catch can filter, on a sealed set up that $h%t goes right back into the engine LOL
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
I can only relate to my own personal experience which was on my prior motor, which was a healthy, stock rebuild. As I was turning up the boost on my fp red, north of 30 psi I think, I blew the dipstick right out LOL. At first I thought I blew a head gasket OMG. At the time I was on the stock style sealed set up, pcv valve, and the vacuum line off the valve cover to the intake pipe. I knew I needed a catch can, and I always just liked the look of the big line “ vented” set ups. I know there’s some good Wright ups on sealed set ups, and it makes sense to have vacuum on the crank case, but to me it also makes sense to let it BREATHE LOL. After installing my RealStreetPerformance vented can, which is a very nice baffled piece, I NEVER had a crankcase/dipstick issue again. And it should be noted that my powder coated valve cover that’s currently on the car has no baffles, just a tab welded under the AN fitting ports. My catchcan would maybe have like a teaspoon of oil in after some ripping. Again, I had a healthy engine with good ring compression so I’m sure that helps, with your issue I would question your turbo drain and or blow by. Again I’m just posting how a vented set up worked for me, I’m sure others have had success on a sealed as well, it’s all personal preference I guess:thumb:
I checked tonight and I have -8 fittings on my cover. I do think most of issues came from a bad drain because this old hybrid 60 trim I had on there was so offset the drain was right through the middle of the motor mount so I had to reverse the fittings and put a 45 on the turbo plus cut the mount just to get it even close to fitting. With the new FP Zero I was able to flip it back around with no issue and have the straight fitting on the turbo. It also doesn't help I'm hitting over 100psi of oil pressure when cold and high rpm. I really need to port the housing, but we will see if I make it that far as I would really like to get to TPG and get tuned by the end of September.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Also wanted to add if you’ve ever seen some high power cars doing dyno pulls, you can sometimes actually SEE the crankcase fumes exiting thru the catch can filter, on a sealed set up that $h%t goes right back into the engine LOL
I have definitely seen the videos, it's crazy the amount of blow by coming out of some of those cars under high boost.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
The sealed setup is not worth it. Not a single big hp car runs it that way. You may make the rings seal better but you’re introducing oil and incombustible vapors in as well.
I swapped cans today, I'm going with a larger vented/baffled can but keeping my -8 lines as I'm not redoing my valve cover right now.
 

craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Made my own dump tube yesterday. Full stainless welded with stainless MIG. Not the prettiest thing but it will work. All this welding is really making me want to pick up a TIG setup. It has also given me a new found respect for all the fabricators out there and the level of work they are putting out.
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I got my coil pack and ignition module relocated.

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Then I got my intake manifold installed and torqued as well as the S90 TB. I'm still running the ISC with a FIAV block off, and of course it now sit right where the shifter cables go. I had to zip tie the cables up creatively without binding them to get it all to clear. I've toyed around the idea of removing the ISC but I'm not sure I want to get into that right now either. I did get high idle (2k rpm) when hot sometimes before I took the car apart.

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craracer05

Supporting Member
327
52
Sep 29, 2005
Warren, Ohio
Got the fuel rail and injectors installed this morning and routed the wiring harness under the manifold. Fit up my upper intercooler pipe and I'm hoping it clears the FP intake when it finally arrives. I looked at my catch can and I'm thinking I'm going to mount it where the SMIC used to be. It's the only place there is room and it will be easy to drain. I tired to install my throttle cable and the mount on the Magnus manifold isn't close at all to working. I had to grind down the flange on the cable just to get the slots to line up with the mounting holes on the manifold. Even then you can only use one bolt to mount the cable, and it's still in between slots to get the right tension. I also can't figure out what size they tapped the holes for as the stock bolts don't fit nor do a couple others I tried. I made a trip out to Summit and picked up some more t-bolt clamps, vacuum hose, and -8 line. I also updated my ECMlink firmware and sent my current map over to Nate at TPG to get a good base map.

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