(JayBird) 94 Talon Tsi

[Ma1aki34]

This is the Build Thread for (JayBird) 94 Talon Tsi. Reply below.

 

[Ma1aki34]

Starting off with addressing one of the known issue from when the car was parked. Busted shifter cable bushing.
this week I pulled the interior and removed the shifter I cleaned it up a little and compared the current bushing to new OEM bushings and confirmed my suspension. I plan to prep the surfaces and rebuild the whole linkage as the under hood bushings are gone as well.

 

[Ma1aki34]

Update Misc.

After work and school, me and my boys stopped by China Freight and picked up some supplies to get thing moving. I also ordered a bottle of Rust Oleum-Rust Dissolver. I plan to try it out on the shifter assembly once i finish with the wire brush and scuff pads.
On a side note i have been hitting the bolts on the fuel tank and all the fasteners for the subframe with PB Blaster after work each day, so it should be easier when we get time after the shifter is done. It worked on the notorious spark plugs on the 04 F150 Lol.

Edit: I also remembered that I had an old welded petal assembly laying in an old barn, so I picked that up. ill need to clean it up as well. Never hurt having a spare ready.

 

[Ma1aki34]

Last week the boy and I finished removing the interior. He took the seats out all I did was pick them up and move them to the garage.



random work stuff

This an obvious tip but worth mentioning before you start shooting “PB blaster, until your heart's content,” remove or cover any plastic that you don’t want to stain. Movers blankets at the hardware store are cheap and softer than the concrete wink wink.



Over the weekend, I worked on getting the fuel tank stud and bolts loose, hitting them with break free every day and working 15-30min here and there.



I had removed the hanger a day or two before, I took care to let the studs soak for a few days. But ended up snapping 3 of the 5 studs. I had a plan going into it that a JMF Fuel cell and RTM Replacement hanger would probably be in my future. Along with deciding on using the 255 fuel pump that I’ve got set aside or going ahead and getting a 450 high-pressure pump to cover my HP goals.

my favorite part, cutting stuff.

My cousin stopped by that day to pick up a bin I was using to clean the house. His new "Bin Truck"

Any feedback on the JFM tank would be appreciated. I was concerned that the internal baffling is designed well enough to avoid sloshing and aeration. Also, I’m looking into going with a T4-style turbo, something like the P6266. And was looking at an 8an feed and a 6AN return, thinking that should support something in that range.



Today, between work and kid appointments, I was able to drop the tank, came back that afternoon, and actually made pretty quick progress on removing the subframe. I was able to get the prop shaft bolts off easily, as I was worried due to the rusted-up drivetrain not being easy to rotate. The rear exhaust bolts were fresh and came off without any issues. I had been hitting them with brake free before and a few times after work each day.




Tomorrow through Friday, remove the parking brake cables, and drop the subframe. Remove the driveshaft assembly for inspection, I assume I will end up with a Driveshaft Shop replacement as all the joints are shot and it will probably be cheaper in the long run.


Tip: keep a box of these and a Sharpie in the cab while working so you are more apt to keep track of things!

So much room for activities!


Rear Diff:

Random work stuff! :


Then I need to make the below decisions:

- 2 Key points in project motivation.
-I want the replacement parts to allow for a really clean open layout that is easier to disassemble and troubleshoot. I would like to be able to swap a rear diff or axles at the track etc.
-Time is a precious commodity for me, so Replacement Vs. Restoration. I am willing to pay for new parts to meet this goal.

My optimistic budget was 3800.00, but I’m pretty set on replacing all of the below components, as it would give me a fresh start and not have to deal will itemize small tasks of replacing bushing, saving me time. So I assuming 4500 to cover it. Any feedback is welcome on choosing or if I've assumed too much.

Rear differential:
360.00 Core B1G 1g LSD
600.00 Team Rip rebuild.
150.00 2x stock axels (Rockauto) then upgrade later to DSS after the motor is done.

Subframe:
I would be interested in how much a tube subframe would cost me, I've seen that NatFAb may have an option.
450.00Upper control arms
325.00 lower control arms
200.00 active toe eliminator
200.00 mustache bar
300.00 swap bar.

Brakes/Fuel:
250.00 break lines and caliper rebuild (may have access to hydraulic hose machine to make myself) bearings etc.
650.00 fuel cell
450.00 Pump hanger Assm. with fuel pump
200.00 fuel lines and misc. to rail 8an feed 6AN return 10an fill.

More updates to come, I figure this will be the pace for the time being as I work my way forward to the engine bay. Again feedback is welcome!