2G Crank no start with more info (Need Help)

[Caden Rhys]

I just got this car 1995 GST. Previous owner did a motor swap to a 1999 GST 4g63T. Said the battery and turbo were bad. I tried starting it with a jump pack but it didn’t work. I haven’t gone through any diag yet myself but with this being a new platform to me I thought I’d make a post and see if anyone had any advice or could translate some of what I’m lookin at here.

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[19Eclipse90]

Verify that the crank angle sensor and A/C compressor connectors didn’t get mixed up. The connector you picked at the end of the video - what are the wire colors?

Crank sensor has a black, a red, and a blue with white wire.
A/C compressor has a white with green, green with red, and black with white wire.

Other than that: How to diagnose a no-start. Check for spark, fuel, and compression.

 

[Caden Rhys]

I checked the wires and the right one is plugged in

 

[19Eclipse90]

Not that it will cause your no-start, but the top nipple of the BOV needs to be ran to the intake manifold. The nipple on the intake manifold with the plastic line veering off towards the timing belt should be connected to the BOV top nipple.

 

[Caden Rhys]

Not that it will cause your no-start, but the top nipple of the BOV needs to be ran to the intake manifold. The nipple on the intake manifold with the plastic line veering off towards the timing belt should be connected to the BOV top nipple.

Ok will do

 

[CKOPOCT]

I suggest you start by cataloging what all has been done with the car. Just at a quick glance I see the stock FPR has been replaced, likely meaning the fuel pump and injectors have been upgraded above stock. Looks like you have a front mount intercooler instead of the factory side mount. Turbo is not stock; neither is the MAF (your car has a GM MAF with a translator). You might have ECMLink (hopefully you do) - tunable upgrade for the ECU.

Did the car run with all of these mods on the car, or were these mods added and the car never ran afterward? Sometimes people throw "go fast" parts on the car that turn into "won't run" parts because they aren't installed properly and in the right combination/way and/or the car isn't tuned. I know this doesn't really help with the no start, but with just the mods I can see, it's important to know what else has been changed on the car as this will help us know what might be a problem (assuming the no-start link @19Eclipse90 provided doesn't lead you to resolution).

 

[chrysler kid]

The 95 and 96 cars have a different cam sensor location. The 99 motor in the car has the late model cam sensor location. So the car is most likely not receiving the correct cam sensor signal depending on what ECU you have; and what cam sensor is wired on the cylinder head

The early 95-96 cars have the cam sensor behind the exhaust cam gear behind the timing belt. The late model 2g has the cam sensor on the end of the valve cover by the throttle body inlet (this is the one on your car). Verify the wiring is correct for the ECU that is in the car

 

[Caden Rhys]

I suggest you start by cataloging what all has been done with the car. Just at a quick glance I see the stock FPR has been replaced, likely meaning the fuel pump and injectors have been upgraded above stock. Looks like you have a front mount intercooler instead of the factory side mount. Turbo is not stock; neither is the MAF (your car has a GM MAF with a translator). You might have ECMLink (hopefully you do) - tunable upgrade for the ECU.

Did the car run with all of these mods on the car, or were these mods added and the car never ran afterward? Sometimes people throw "go fast" parts on the car that turn into "won't run" parts because they aren't installed properly and in the right combination/way and/or the car isn't tuned. I know this doesn't really help with the no start, but with just the mods I can see, it's important to know what else has been changed on the car as this will help us know what might be a problem (assuming the no-start link @19Eclipse90 provided doesn't lead you to resolution).

The previous owner had ECMLink but kept it

The 95 and 96 cars have a different cam sensor location. The 99 motor in the car has the late model cam sensor location. So the car is most likely not receiving the correct cam sensor signal depending on what ECU you have; and what cam sensor is wired on the cylinder head

The early 95-96 cars have the cam sensor behind the exhaust cam gear behind the timing belt. The late model 2g has the cam sensor on the end of the valve cover by the throttle body inlet (this is the one on your car). Verify the wiring is correct for the ECU that is in the car

How do I verify if it’s the right wiring?

 

[Caden Rhys]

OK, so here's all the info I have now:
- 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T with a 1999 Eclipse GS-T motor swapped into it. The old owner had DSMLink but kept it.
- HPFP, AFPR, FMIC, 16g turbo, intercooler, apexi exhaust.
- Confirmed spark, fuel pressure, and timing.
I did a compression test before setting the timing, which led me to correctly set the timing (Intake cam was off by a tooth). I haven't done it since.

Went down a few rabbit holes looking for voltages with sensors, and it all checked out, but I'm willing to check again.

 

[pauleyman]

what injectors are in it? What sensors are you using? 95 or 99? What ECU is in it now since the dsmlink was pulled?

 

[jed344]

What year ecu is being used and year style CAS.

 

[Caden Rhys]

What year ecu is being used and year style CAS.

Black box ecu and 2 piece CAS

 

[pauleyman]

Black box ecu and 2 piece CAS

Did you switch the firing order back to 2gb?

 

[Caden Rhys]

Did you switch the firing order back to 2gb?

This is current spark plug wire routing

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I also have the other ECU style that came with the car

 

[jed344]

Black box and that style CAS would be correct. The firing order looks right long as the ignition wire's have not been swapped at ECU.

I never have used a MAF translator with a GM MAF so can not say if that is causing your issues. We only ever used them with ECMLink and their plug and play cable.

 

[Stapl3]

I would swap the spark plug wires at the coil packs just to see what happens. Right now it's 4123, I would make it 2341.

 

[nice97civic]

Hard to tell but looks like this is a manual trans car. It's really stupid but make sure the clutch safety switch is engaging. Mine worked its way loose and the car wouldn't start until I re-adjusted it and eventually just disabled it but it's worth a look.

 

[steve]

Hard to tell but looks like this is a manual trans car. It's really stupid but make sure the clutch safety switch is engaging.

The CSS interrupts the signal for the starter, so if the starter engages and cranks the engine it can't be causing the problem.

There is a connection between the ignition switch and the ECU that tells it you're trying to start the car and if that's bad it can be hard to start the car.

Given all the corrosion going on here and the haphazard wiring there could be a ton of issues. I'd like to see some video if the ignition being turned on and an attempt at starting the car before making any guesses.

 

[nice97civic]

That's a good point and to be fair, I think mine found its way into some sort of in between situation where it wasn't fully telling the starter to either engage or disengage.