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1G Coolant Temp Sensor Plug

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fourgsixthree33

15+ Year Contributor
1,244
46
Oct 25, 2010
Athens, Pennsylvania
Hello everyone. I have a 93 Tsi AWD. About all stock minus the following...

Full Straight Through 3.5" exhaust (from headers back)
K&N Air Filter
14b Turbo (originally had the 13g being this is an automatic)
A/C removed (compressor, condensor, and lines)
NGK Plugs and Wires
And I run 93 octane pump gas.

I recently had a coolant leak from the gasket between the themostat housing and the engine block. While fixing this leak with a new gasket, I broke (or maybe it was already broke) the coolant temp sensor plug. Both of them actually. They were so corroded. One of the prongs on the coolant temp sensor (for ECU) disconnected from the sensor and was jammed into the plug. I used needle nose pliers to get it out. But the wires for the plug were still extremly bad. The wires to the plug eventually sepparated from the plug.

So for the time being, I have the two wires rigged to each prong. The same on the coolant temp sending unit (gauge). The gauge seems to be working fine. The car still runs with alot less power. The day I fixed the leak, I just left the wires off of the sensor. Surprisingly, the next night the car ran amazing. Better than it even had before. Idk why. But the next day, it was back to its sluggish self.

So here I am trying to figure out what to do with these wires. Is there a plug I can buy from the parts store that I could wire up and plug perfectly to the sensor? Should I use some crimpers and crinp the wires to the prongs?

Also note, my check engine light is not on upon start up. Then after about 2 minutes, it will come on and stay on until I shut it off and start it back up. Thanks in advance.

AJ
 
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1 : you should be able to fab up crimp connectors to the wires and slide them, snuggly, over the connections. I would make sure to heat shrink or at least electrical tape them up to keep them from corroding from moisture/leaks.

2 : If you have a check engine light... have you ran the Code to see what it's in regards to?
 
1 : you should be able to fab up crimp connectors to the wires and slide them, snuggly, over the connections. I would make sure to heat shrink or at least electrical tape them up to keep them from corroding from moisture/leaks.

2 : If you have a check engine light... have you ran the Code to see what it's in regards to?

I don't have anything to check the code. But I am sure it's for the coolant temp sensor. I had no check engine light prior to this problem. When I had nothing connected to the sensor, the CEL was on all the time. Now with the wires rigged to it, it's like I stated in my first post. Not on at first, then comes on a couple minutes later.

Does it matter which wire goes to which prong? I didnt think it would matter being a thermoresistor. But I could be wrong.
 
I don't have anything to check the code. But I am sure it's for the coolant temp sensor. I had no check engine light prior to this problem. When I had nothing connected to the sensor, the CEL was on all the time. Now with the wires rigged to it, it's like I stated in my first post. Not on at first, then comes on a couple minutes later.

Does it matter which wire goes to which prong? I didnt think it would matter being a thermoresistor. But I could be wrong.

I don't believe that it does, but someone chiming in on this one to confirm it would be wonderful.

As for the CEL, it's very, very simple to check a Cel, especially on a 1G. All you need is a $4 test light from Walmart. Tap it to your OBD1 plug pin and read it.
 
I don't remember what colors the wires are. If it's even possible to tell by how nasty the wires are. They may be black from all the oil and dirt from over the years. I will look though.

I am heading to the parts store now to get some crimpers and maybe a spade plug like you mentioned above. I will also read the link you provided. Then I will check the code(s).

UPDATE- Just got back from the parts store. I got some crimpers and got everything snugged up good. The wires to the coolant temp sensor were the green/black and yellow/green that you mentioned.

Fired the car up. Idle was steady from the time I turned the key. Check engine light was off and stayed off on the drive home. The car ran considerably better as well. Thanks you guys.
 
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