1G Coolant Temp Sensor (Level Sensor)

[sheffester]

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone could help me find the correct coolant temperature sensor for my car, and if anyplace they know sells it. It would be greatly appreciated because NAPA sold me the wrong one, and they have 5-6 listed for my car (90 Laser RS Turbo). So if anyone could help steer me in the right direction, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

 

[titogs95]

Well first, there are two coolant temperature sensor. One for the ECU and one for the gauge. which one are you looking for?

Look at this thread to know about it.

B is for the ECU
C is for the Gauge

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Is the confusion the reason you are saying they gave you the wrong part? I bought one from Napa and I didn't have any problem.

Some parts number I found in CAPS (I hope it helps)

MD069879 Sensor Unit, Water temperature
MB562690 Gauge, Water Temperature
MD091056 Gauge Unit, Water Temperature

 

[sheffester]

Well then. I must be using the wrong terminology. I am referring to the sensor at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Now, what kind of sensor this is, I dont know. But, any information and knowledge is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!

 

[boostnhard]

Discount Auto Part for only $7-8 bucks

 

[sheffester]

I just checked there and I can only find a Temp Send Switch w/Light for that much money.

 

[titogs95]

Ok. If that is the case the part number is MB356704 "Radiator water sensor." 85` C

To be honest just go to a junkyard and get it from there.

I found it in Advance auto part

Look at the picture >

 

[Defiant]

The problem you're giving NAPA is that you're asking for a temperature sensor instead of a coolant level sensor. The one in the radiator just tells you when you ran out of water [oops].
Eh, turn on the fan. Duh.

 

[tom04841]

The problem you're giving NAPA is that you're asking for a temperature sensor instead of a coolant level sensor. The one in the radiator just tells you when you ran out of water.

I thought that this sensor was actually the coolant temp switch that turned on the radiator fan.

The coolant level sensor is built into the coolant overflow bottle.

 

[steve]

The problem you're giving NAPA is that you're asking for a temperature sensor instead of a coolant level sensor. The one in the radiator just tells you when you ran out of water.

The one in the bottom of the raidator on a 1G is the thermoswitch to run the radiator fan. The level switch is in the bottom of the overflow bottle.

Steve

I see that Tom beat me to it.

 

[Laysher91]

The one in the bottom of the raidator on a 1G is the thermoswitch to run the radiator fan. The level switch is in the bottom of the overflow bottle.

Winner!

 

[sheffester]

So, my best bet would be a junkyard?? Now, would hotwiring this sensor make any difference in my cars driveability??? Because I'm trying to diagnose why my car runs like crap when it gets up to temperature. Any of you wiseman have any idea??? Thanks for all the help so far!

 

[steve]

Now, would hotwiring this sensor make any difference in my cars driveability??? Because I'm trying to diagnose why my car runs like crap when it gets up to temperature.

Connecting the two pins will just turn the fan on full time. If your radiator fan is turning on and cycling then there's nothing wrong with the thermo switch. If it doesn't that isn't conclusive that the switch is bad.

Perhaps if you explain how your car is running lile crap you might get better advice.

Steve

 

[sheffester]

Sorry Steve.

1. It takes forever to start the car. I can turn it over and over, no go. It takes an abnormally long time for fuel to reach the rail and everything for it to fire over.

2. It runs great until it reaches temperature. As soon as it reaches temperature, it runs like crap. It won't idle correctly, it wont run over 4k rpm, it will bog out and die if you give it more than 10% throttle. It basically gets impossible to drive any further than 20-30 feet or so.

3. I can let it sit, cool down, and then it will run fine, until it reaches temp again. Then it repeats.

4. No boost leaks, brand new motor (33 miles), havn't checked for turbo shaft play, my K&N filter doesn't seal tightly onto my intake pipe (the clips on the rubber pipe don't hold it on all the way, and it seems like I can hear boost leaks through it??), and then on the O2 housing right where it bolts to the manifold, there is a hole, where it seems a bolt would go, that leaks exhaust. Are any of these things bad? What should I get fixed???

 

[steve]

1. It takes forever to start the car. I can turn it over and over, no go. It takes an abnormally long time for fuel to reach the rail and everything for it to fire over.

Did you have to cobble together the fuel pump assembly. Are you sure the pump isn't leaking where it fits into the hardline. Your fuel pressure should come right up to spec as soon as the pump turns on. If it doesn't you have a problem.

If you have pressure but it's hard to start then you need to get a logger and check the Engine Coolant Temp reading.
This is the two wire ECU sensor in the thermostat housing. Also check your compression even if it's a new motor.

2. It runs great until it reaches temperature. As soon as it reaches temperature, it runs like crap. It won't idle correctly, it wont run over 4k rpm, it will bog out and die if you give it more than 10% throttle. It basically gets impossible to drive any further than 20-30 feet or so.

What's your vacuum at idle, what is the idle speed, is it firing on all cylinders, etc.
Does your ISC work?
You had put new plugs in did you ever replace the wires?

3. I can let it sit, cool down, and then it will run fine, until it reaches temp again. Then it repeats.

Define runs fine?
All the problems you described go away and you can drive the car hard until it warms up?s

4. No boost leaks, brand new motor (33 miles), havn't checked for turbo shaft play, my K&N filter doesn't seal tightly onto my intake pipe (the clips on the rubber pipe don't hold it on all the way, and it seems like I can hear boost leaks through it??), and then on the O2 housing right where it bolts to the manifold, there is a hole, where it seems a bolt would go, that leaks exhaust. Are any of these things bad? What should I get fixed???

What MAF are you using? The filter should attach to the MAF not the intake pipe.
You should fix everything you find.

Still not enough to go on.

 

[sheffester]

1. We checked the pump, and it is not leaking. I will perform a compression test when I get the chance. And I also have no access to any logging whatsoever.

2. Idle is around 850, it is firing on all cylinders, wires are a couple months old. I am assuming ISC means Idle Speed Control?? And I guess it works. I dont have a bad idle until it reaches temp.

3. Yes, all the problems do go away. But it still does the starting thing when warm. I can crank for 5-7 seconds, then stop. Crank it again and it fires right up.

4. Stock MAF. Just a K&N filter. I dont even know if its the right filter, I bought the car with it on and its pretty beat up. It attaches to the rubber flex hose that attaches to the turbo inlet.

If you need anything else, please let me know, and I will do what I can to help. Thanks again!

 

[steve]

1a. How do you know?
1b. Good, the service limits are 114 psi or more than 14 psi difference between the highest and lowest cylinders.
1c. Make one or buy one. You will need a logger.

2. If your idling at 850 your have a problem. At cold start the engine will idle 100-1500 or more and drop as the engine warms up. Once it reaches operating temp (186F or more) the idle speed should be 750 RPM. That's what the ECU is programmed to maintain using the ISC. The engine idles higher than that if the ISC can't close down any more and idles lower if it can't open up and let more air in to raise the speed.

I hate to sound like a broken record but I can think of many different types of running/idling bad. Unless your specific about what the car is doing I can't guess which of the possible problem you might be having.

3. Does it also work if you tap the starter, wait a second and then crank it again and have it start right up?

4. Are you trying to say that the MAF doesn't attach well to the flex hose on the turbo inlet? The filter attaches to the MAF, actually the base of the air can on the MAF. If your filter is attaching directly to the inlet pipe then something is not right.

With a cut up aircan it looks like this.

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Steve

 

[sheffester]

Steve, I dont take any offense at all to you saying the same thing, because its my fault you have to keep saying it. I wish I was better at describing it to you. Now, first, with that picture, thats exactly what mine looks like. Those clips that hold the filter down are where its leaking. It seems like the filter isn't big enough so the clips don't seal it tight.

1a. I know because I tested the pump out of the tank and checked for leaks.
1c. I know DSMLink is recommended but I'm tight on money. How would I make one???

2. If it helps, I can adjust the idle with the BISS, and when it is warmed up its around 750-850. When cold, it idles around 1500.

3. Yes, most of the time. I can just blip the starter, let it sit, and hit it again and it fires right up.

Thank you so much, I wish I could meet you to make this process much easier, and to further my knowledge. Thanks again everyone, especially Steve

 

[sheffester]

Just finished putting in the right thermosensor. It ended up not fixing my problem, but it does work right. So, anyone got anything else I could try?