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New coolant temp sensor?

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Ethenp23

Proven Member
132
7
Jun 24, 2021
Midland tx, Texas
I just wanna know if a lot of coolant will come out if I take the old one out probably a dumb ass question but needa know 100%
 
I’d say more than 20oz. Are you replacing the sensor? If so, remove the sensor, use your thumb as a plug and get the new sensor on. You’ll probably won’t lose much.
Say less, and Yeah I’m replacing it, is there any lubing I’m supposed to do to the new sensor before i put it in ?
 
In case you want to reuse the spilled coolant or just want to be environmentally responsible, you can put a small drip tray or bowl under it to catch most of it as it drips out. But given its location, higher than where most of the coolant runs, I can't imagine that all that much would drip out, perhaps a pint or two tops.

Also, speaking of coolant sensors, there are basically 4 of them in a DSM from my understanding, 3 on the thermostat housing, for the ECM, A/C and dash gauge, and one in the bottom of the radiator, to turn on the fan. Could any of them going bad cause occasional rough idling issues, or is that more likely to be clogged injectors, dirty fuel filter or throttle, bad O2 sensor, etc.?

And in any case, is it pretty simple to test the condition of these coolant sensors?
 
Bad coolant temp sensor can cause a crank no start, long crank and run very poorly. If it’s running poorly, it can cause stalling.
Thanks bro and when it’s all in everything should work fine right? Or does it take some time to fully settle in for the ecu to recognize it ?

Bad coolant temp sensor can cause a crank no start, long crank and run very poorly. If it’s running poorly, it can cause stalling.
Bad coolant temp sensor can cause a crank no start, long crank and run very poorly. If it’s running poorly, it can cause stalling.
Also I let the car run for 5-10 minutes after putting it in and cleaning the whole area up and it ran great actually way better then before bc my idle used to spike a lot and I guess that sensor stopped it
 
There's nothing that needs to settle. The ecu delivers fuel based on coolant temp.

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And also during cold start.
Adjusts fuel delivery based on coolant temperature while cranking. This adjustment is quickly reduced over time after cranking has stopped. This adjustment is pretty much zeroed out within a few seconds of "normal" engine operation. Log CrankingFuelAdj to see the value currently being used by the ECU.

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When I recently changed the CTS basically I unscrewed the old sensor with one hand and waited with the new sensor in the other hand, and just as I unscrewed it, I immediately screwed in the new one. Spilled less than a spit's worth, yeah I'm that fast yeehaw. Just don't overtighten it.
 
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