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2G Clutch Issues need help troubleshooting

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Rohnz1

Probationary Member
10
0
Oct 2, 2011
Oak Grove, Missouri
I am new to the DSM forum but I have been building cars my whole life, unfortunately not too much experience on clutches.

I have a 1997 Eclipse GST. I had the transmission rebuilt 8 months ago and at that time a new clutch, pressure plate and TOB was installed. It was running great and then this last week my clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there and would not go into gear.

I re-bled system hoping I could get it home with no luck. Towed it home and replaced the slave cylinder and Master cylinder. Bled system again and adjusted the Master Cylinder. Watched Jacks video on youtube and as far as I can tell I do not see any air bubbles coming out and when you push the cluch the slave cylinder is pushing the fork just fine. Everything should be done right but still wont go into gear and if I try it grinds.

Is there something else I should do am I missing something? When they did the transmission they did not put in an OEM TOB. How do I know if I missed something or if it is a clutch or TOB failure. Any help is appreciated need to get the car on the road again. I am eager to learn. Here is the noob in my what is 1G vs 2G....
 
I am new to the DSM forum but I have been building cars my whole life, unfortunately not too much experience on clutches.

I have a 1997 Eclipse GST. I had the transmission rebuilt 8 months ago and at that time a new clutch, pressure plate and TOB was installed. It was running great and then this last week my clutch pedal went to the floor and stayed there and would not go into gear.

I re-bled system hoping I could get it home with no luck. Towed it home and replaced the slave cylinder and Master cylinder. Bled system again and adjusted the Master Cylinder. Watched Jacks video on youtube and as far as I can tell I do not see any air bubbles coming out and when you push the cluch the slave cylinder is pushing the fork just fine. Everything should be done right but still wont go into gear and if I try it grinds.

Is there something else I should do am I missing something? When they did the transmission they did not put in an OEM TOB. How do I know if I missed something or if it is a clutch or TOB failure. Any help is appreciated need to get the car on the road again. I am eager to learn. Here is the noob in my what is 1G vs 2G....

Did your system lose fluid when the pedal went to the floor? Was the level low in the clutch master cylinder? There have been a lot of failures with non-OEM TOB's, I would always use an OEM Mitsubishi TOB. What kind of clutch are you using?

A bad TOB should make a clunking/grinding/rattling sound when you push the clutch in. If the pedal is still going straight to the floor or the fluid level is going down then it would be a hydraulic issue (slave/master/lines/bleeding). If it's not going into gear it could a clutch issue, pedal issue, shift cable issue, or even a transmission issue.

I don't know if you are serious about your last question but 1g's are 1990-1994 while 2g's are 1995-1999 model years.
 
A lot of people have problems with TOB's that aren't oem. Do you know what brand/kind of clutch disc was installed? Since the tranny grinds when you try to put it in gear it's like the clutch is always engaged even if you have the pedal to the floor...you're positive you adjusted the clutch correctly? Sorry man I wish I could help you more. I would call up the shop that rebuilt the tranny and see what they suggest you try. Do you have a warranty on the transmission?
 
Thanks for the responses, the fluid level was fine when the petal went to the floor no leakage inside or outside that is why I thought maybe slave cylinder just failed and thought it was not pushing the release lever.

I thought I would go ahead an replace the master cylinder at the same time. I bled it thoroughly and did the adjusment on the rod. No noises from the TOB. The slave is moving the relese lever all the way through the motion but still cant shift it into gear. If there was still air in the system the slave just wouldnt push the release lever all the way right? Is there any sure way to troubleshoot it to make sure that is not hydraulic for sure before I have to tear it down?
 
Thanks for the responses, the fluid level was fine when the petal went to the floor no leakage inside or outside that is why I thought maybe slave cylinder just failed and thought it was not pushing the release lever.

I thought I would go ahead an replace the master cylinder at the same time. I bled it thoroughly and did the adjusment on the rod. No noises from the TOB. The slave is moving the relese lever all the way through the motion but still cant shift it into gear. If there was still air in the system the slave just wouldnt push the release lever all the way right? Is there any sure way to troubleshoot it to make sure that is not hydraulic for sure before I have to tear it down?

If the slave is pushing the clutch fork and the pedal feels firm, then I don't see how it could be a hydraulic issue. With the car off, can you shift though the gears? You don't need the clutch to shift though the gears with the car off. That might narrow down if it is a transmission/linkage issue or a clutch issue.
 
So when the car is off it shifts okay in gears.
With the car on it can't shift in gear?

WITH NO ONE AROUND AND PLENTY OF ROOM. With car off, put in first gear. If the car jumps then most likely your clutch isn't disengaging.
 
So yes it did exactly what you said when I put it in first gear and tried to start it with the clutch in and it lurched, so the clutch isnt disenging. So is that a symptom of a shot clutch an not a hydraulic problem?
 
From what you have said your problem will require pulling the transmission. You have pretty much eliminated everything but the TOB, fork and clutch itself.
 
That is what I thought you were going to say. I thought so too but before making that commitment to pull the transmission I wanted other opinions. Anyone done this job? Looks like fun from what the video shows. Is there a good clutch anyone can recommend that may better than OEM. It is a daily driver.
 
That is what I thought you were going to say. I thought so too but before making that commitment to pull the transmission I wanted other opinions. Anyone done this job? Looks like fun from what the video shows. Is there a good clutch anyone can recommend that may better than OEM. It is a daily driver.

I just did it last week. It's not that bad, helps to have two people though. I would recommend an ACT 2100 with a street disk or South Bend SS with a kevlar disk. OEM throwout bearing, clutch fork, and pivot ball. You will also need a clutch alignment tool. Make sure you torque everything down properly and you will be all set.
 
Would you a suggest replace the fork and pivot ball no matter what or check for scarring and wear? Where should I look to get the alignment tool? I appreciate all your help!
 
The allignment tools are sold at most auto parts stores. You will just need to know the input shaft diameter and splinning (sp?). Sorry, i dont know the size off the top of my head, but im sure someone will post it up. You could probably just give them the application and they could tell you which size at the store too. Good Luck!
 
I pulled the tranny and the clutch plate was distroyed. I think when the tranny was rebuilt they put some cheap ol pice of crap in there. I was hoping to ask anohter question about the clutches that were reccomended. My Daughter also drives this car and I read a review that the ACT 2100 is nto so friendly on the leg in traffic. My daughter will still need to drive this car is there a clutch that may be better suited that is not just a stock cluth that she will be ok with? How much harder is it to engage the 2100 compared to stock. You guy have been a great help thatnk fo all the advise.
 
I pulled the tranny and the clutch plate was distroyed. I think when the tranny was rebuilt they put some cheap ol pice of crap in there. I was hoping to ask anohter question about the clutches that were reccomended. My Daughter also drives this car and I read a review that the ACT 2100 is nto so friendly on the leg in traffic. My daughter will still need to drive this car is there a clutch that may be better suited that is not just a stock cluth that she will be ok with? How much harder is it to engage the 2100 compared to stock. You guy have been a great help thatnk fo all the advise.

I recommend both the ACT 2100 with a street disk and the South Bend SS with a Kevlar disk. I have used both. The ACT 2100, which I used for 6 years, is only slightly stiffer then stock. I don't think your daughter would have any problem with it, my wife drove my DSM with no problems. The South Bend, which I am using now, feels pretty much stock (at least what I remember of stock). It is only slightly less stiff then the ACT 2100. Both are quality, proven clutches and I think you would be happy with either one.
 
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Good to know... Are you running the Oem Flywheel? I am trying to decide to have this one resurfaced or buy another one. Seen some aluminum ones... Thoughts? I want this clutch to last a while and

Also one last question would you reccomend the solid disk or a sprung, I undertand the sprung is more for street.. Any advise on this?
 
in my 2cents i am a big fan of clutch masters clutches. i had a act 2600 in my 94 tsi awd and broke it. what made me try clutch masters is a buddy of mine had a fx400 in his 94 awd and spit a spring out of the disk, called clutch masters and told them what happened they had him send his disk in for inspection, and was later sent a unsprung 6 puck so it didn't happen again for the price of shipping. seeing that kind of customer service makes me think i will ###### buy their clutchs for a long time to come. oh and my fx500 has about the same clutch effort as the act 2600 did and it has more holding compassity.

Good to know... Are you running the Oem Flywheel? I am trying to decide to have this one resurfaced or buy another one. Seen some aluminum ones... Thoughts? I want this clutch to last a while and

Also one last question would you reccomend the solid disk or a sprung, I undertand the sprung is more for street.. Any advise on this?

on a fwd you will be ok with a sprung hub.
 
Good to know... Are you running the Oem Flywheel? I am trying to decide to have this one resurfaced or buy another one. Seen some aluminum ones... Thoughts? I want this clutch to last a while and

Also one last question would you reccomend the solid disk or a sprung, I undertand the sprung is more for street.. Any advise on this?

Both of the ones that I have used are/were sprung disks.
 
Ok I decided on and installed the ACT 2100 with a street disk, with fidanza aluminum flywheel. All seems fine but I get I do not know if this is the right term a chatter/ shudder like a grabbing and slipping shake when taking off from a stop. Is this normal? I followed the instructions very closely and adjusted everything after watching video from Jafromobile from youtube. Everthing works great except that. Thanks for all the advise!
 
OEM TOB! Can't be said enough! Act clutches will come with a TOB but it is inferior by far! I made the mistake of using one. It broke the first time I put the car in reverse to back it off the lift after installing new ACT 2600.
 
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