Clutch troubleshooting

[mizak82]

Hi guy, Sorry Im a noob.. I am getting very frustrated with my act stage 3 clutch on my 6 bolt swap.. Since I bought the car the clutch has always pumped up after a handful of miles..

Initially I thought the crappy brake fluid was expanding too much from the heat, So I bled the system and I put the high temp stuff in.. No change..

I adjusted the clutch just like they do in the jacks transmissions video.. I had a buddy push in the slave as I adjusted the master cylinder rod.. the pedal height adjuster is adjusted almost all the way out, and the master cylinder rod is running out of threads and my buddy still cant push in the slave.. (I feel like Ive tried every position between the 2 adjustments)

When I take out the clevis pin, the slave moves freely, but obviously the clutch doesnt work that way..


Whats my next step in troubleshooting this issue?

Thanks for your help..

 

[my dreamt dsm]

I'm kinda of confuse. What's the problem. The slave is not working you mean, bad pressure in the pedal??? Oh! I had my fair share of clutch problems. .

Edit:
Are you saying that your clutch is pumping up higher and higher. If so you need to release some pressure by the master or something. I can't really remember where, I ran into it in my search once or the rre clutch tech.
Here you go! Off rre tech pages...


2G Pedal "Pump Up"

If you are fighting an inconsistent pedal adjustment in a 2G, adjust the upper pedal stop adjuster so that you gain additional free play at the top of the pedal travel. Loosen the lock nut and turn the whole switch to get the necessary freeplay (see above pic). You'll probably end up with the clutch pedal sitting a bit higher than the brake pedal. If this is your problem, you will notice that the pedal suddenly gets very tight and the release point will suddenly move up a lot, this is the cause.

2Gs need free play at the top of the pedal travel. If it is close to no travel and right on the edge, then it pumps up. Only 2Gs have a relief valve in the master cylinder that needs to be uncovered so fluid can go back into the reservoir on the clutch release. If not, it gets tighter and tighter and tighter. Then it may slowly relieve the pressure and it is back to normal. Just a 2G thing. You need more free play at the top of the pedal travel.
Left unchecked, the pedal will pump up more and more. The clutch will begin to slip since it is as if you are driving around with your foot on the clutch pedal. Also it plays hell on the crankshaft thrust bearings. The constant pressure pushes the clutch release bearing onto the clutch and flywheel. When centrifugal force throws the clutch release fingers outwards, they make additional pressure on the thrust bearings of the crank. This is an additional factor in short lived crankshaft release bearings and an additional potential cause for crankwalk.

 

[98spydereugene]

Sounds like you went too far in your adjustment, and didn't bleed it as much as you should've...I've done this quite a bit and they're really touchy on adjustment and bleeding, sometimes it's a pain, but when you get it right it'll be worth it...

 

[mizak82]

my clutch from my estimation is not releasing the fluid into the reservoir properly, I feel like Ive adjusted it every which way and still no dice.. only time you can push the slave in with your thumb is when the clevis pin is off..

If the Rod for the master cylinder is threaded to its end point.. Does that mean its too far out and and there for not allowing the release valve to open?