Clutch Fork Position

[black92_tsi_awd]

I'm in the process of swapping an upgraded trans in for my fragged one. I swapped the old shift fork and ball from my old trans to the new one. Including the shim I was using on the ball that was necessary because my master cylinder rod was adjusted almost all the way out. See the attched picture for the shift fork location with the TOB pushed up against the clutch fingers. The silver tick marks are the center of the opening. According to RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info Info you want the fork the the drivers side of center. Mine looks waaay over. Does this look right to you guys?

 

[mike96]

yea i would pull at least one shim out. i don't know how thick your shims are but when dealing with the clutch release arm a little bit goes a long ways...

 

[black92_tsi_awd]

I just put 1 lockwasher in there. There must of been a bigger difference between the two transmission cases. The hydraulic system is self adjusting, I wondering if the clutch fork can be over-extended?

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

Don't use lock washers. One flat hardened washer, red loctite on the pivot ball and you're set.

 

[JackM]

That looks perfect! I'd run it just like that.

Jack

 

[awdmonster1904]

That looks perfect! I'd run it just like that.

Jack

am having the same issue ... how is it perfect ?
if i get new fork and ball is it still an issue ??

 

[black92_tsi_awd]

So I pulled the trans back out and installed the first part of the old housing (that trans is still disassembled-thankfully) with the shift fork assembled....the shift fork ended up in the same position as the picture above. So in other words I was worried for nothing!

So I decided to try to determine how much shim it takes to move the shift fork a certain distance.

Starting with no shim under the ball:
a .047 thick washer moved the fork about 3/32 toward the drivers side
a .064 thick washer moved the fork about 3/16 toword the drivers side

I ended up putting the .047 shim in, not the .064 shim I had previously installed. Previously, I had a little TOB chirping with the clutch out, so I thought it might be a little tight.

 

[DSMified92]

its like jack said it is good. his videos will teach you alot atleast i learned alot. from what i got from him you want your clutch fork in the middle or a little to the block side and the just adjust it under the dash at the assembly until it feels right. also he said something like with it in 1st push the clutch in and rev the car very hard and if it feels like it wants to grab then it needs to be adjusted some more. but all in all ## fork looks good i would put it in and run it.

 

[Spyder4g64]

So I pulled the trans back out and installed the first part of the old housing (that trans is still disassembled-thankfully) with the shift fork assembled....the shift fork ended up in the same position as the picture above. So in other words I was worried for nothing!

So I decided to try to determine how much shim it takes to move the shift fork a certain distance.

Starting with no shim under the ball:
a .047 thick washer moved the fork about 3/32 toward the drivers side
a .064 thick washer moved the fork about 3/16 toword the drivers side

I ended up putting the .047 shim in, not the .064 shim I had previously installed. Previously, I had a little TOB chirping with the clutch out, so I thought it might be a little tight.

Awesome info. I have to shim mine soon, as it is way too far to the left. Now I can tell exactly how thick of shims I need.

 

[AndrewD5418]

Do not use red loctite on aluminum threads. You can risk stripping them when taking it out. Use blue instead.

 

[Calan]

Do not use red loctite on aluminum threads. You can risk stripping them when taking it out. Use blue instead.

In fact, about the only place you need red Loctite at all is on the flywheel bolts.

 

[Strm Trpr]

Run it. As long as the clutch fork is not touching the clutch fingers.

If it was shimmed too much the clutch fork would hit the fingers of the pressure plate.