Clutch fork & Pivot ball position help!

[dsm-junkie]

Hey guys! I was out toying with my transmission earlier today and wanted to get a second opinion about the position of my clutch fork. When the clutch slave cylinder is removed the fork can be pushed all the way to the right. When the clutch slave cylinder is on the transmission it lines up about halfway. I did shim my pivot ball with on thin washer that is .04 inches thick. Here is a video of how my fork sits and moves with slave cylinder on the transmission. So my question is does this look like the normal spot that the clutch fork rests? Also does the throw out bearing look like its going moving back enough to disengage? Also is it moving enough forward to engage when the clutch pedal is being pushed in? Thanks for the help guys!

Clutch fork diagnosis - YouTube

 

[turboglenn]

Really need to see how it sits with the trans installed and agaisnt' the clutch, that's where you make your decision. And depending on if it's a new clutch or not may make a difference

 

[dsm-junkie]

Really need to see how it sits with the trans installed and agaisnt' the clutch, that's where you make your decision. And depending on if it's a new clutch or not may make a difference

It is a brand new pressure plate and clutch disk the flywheel has less than 200 miles and is a fidanza 8lb flywheel! Would it help to put the whole clutch assembly on to the transmission to simulate it being on the car!

 

[turboglenn]

nope. all has to be bolted to the engine (or even a spare engine) with the exact flywheel PP and disc you intend to use on the car, the position of the clutch fingers once installed correctly is what determines placement of the clutch arm atrest and when disengaging clutch

 

[dsm-junkie]

nope. all has to be bolted to the engine (or even a spare engine) with the exact flywheel PP and disc you intend to use on the car, the position of the clutch fingers once installed correctly is what determines placement of the clutch arm atrest and when disengaging clutch

Great! Thanks for the help! Im going to try and test fit it all before I drop it all in!


I also need a little help! One of my bell housing bolt hole threads are so gone! I am gonna need to tap them! I do not have a tap & die set! Does anyone know if I need a Metric or SAE set?? Also if someone can help me out and let me know the correct sized tap I'll need to tap out the bolt hole?? This is a set that I am looking to buy!

40 Piece Metric Carbon Steel Tap and Die Set

 

[turboglenn]

Well, metric or SAE/... what size wrenches have you used so far, asking that almost scares me forthe results of your install in general..

The bell housing only has ONE bolt hole with threads,thhe rest are on the engine,

I HIGHLY suggest you do searching and reading on this stuff, because most won't even answer questions that get to be a tad too rediculous..I've been here YEARS and search and read an hour a day minimum on here to learn, that's the best way to get your info and not get flamed or ignored

 

[NHerron]

Let me start by saying I like Harbor Frieght for a lot of things, so I'm not being that YouGetWhatYouPayFor guy. I bought that exact kit for almost the same exact reason, and I'm telling you straight up it was not good. Maybe I had a bad kit who knows. But the tapped threads were not even close to what they were stated to be and destroyed a couple test threaded holes. No bueno. I know the good kits like Craftsman are expensive and for the time being, I'm just buying a single tap or dye when the need arises. Irwin has been an exceptional brand which can be found at most hardware stores. There's nothing like a good accurate tap.

Bell housing bolt sizes are here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...es-specs-specifications-19.html#post151694582

 

[dsm-junkie]

Well, metric or SAE/... what size wrenches have you used so far, asking that almost scares me forthe results of your install in general..

The bell housing only has ONE bolt hole with threads,thhe rest are on the engine,

I HIGHLY suggest you do searching and reading on this stuff, because most won't even answer questions that get to be a tad too rediculous..I've been here YEARS and search and read an hour a day minimum on here to learn, that's the best way to get your info and not get flamed or ignored

Of course I use metric! I just cannot find any useful dsm tap and die info! I should have clarified that a bit! I need to tap one of the bolt holes on the block!

 

[dsm-junkie]

Let me start by saying I like Harbor Frieght for a lot of things, so I'm not being that YouGetWhatYouPayFor guy. I bought that exact kit for almost the same exact reason, and I'm telling you straight up it was not good. Maybe I had a bad kit who knows. But the tapped threads were not even close to what they were stated to be and destroyed a couple test threaded holes. No bueno. I know the good kits like Craftsman are expensive and for the time being, I'm just buying a single tap or dye when the need arises. Irwin has been an exceptional brand which can be found at most hardware stores. There's nothing like a good accurate tap.

Bell housing bolt sizes are here:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...es-specs-specifications-19.html#post151694582

Thanks alot bud! That's a broken link though!

 

[NHerron]

Hmm its fine on my end. Well I attached a picture

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hmm its fine on my end. Well I attached a picture

Great!! Thanks so much for the help bud!! I continue to suggest you for rep points, but some wiseman feel the information is not helpful enough I guess. I beg to differ!

 

[NHerron]

Oh hey I appreciate that! I'm wondering when your car will stop giving you grief and get that thing on the road! Its been a series of unfortunate events eh? The Rep point system is not that promising, either way it helps me to help others so its all good.

The thread pitch is a fine thread so remember 1.25, some places might only have coarse thread like around here

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hhhh

 

[silvreclips]

There are notches in the caps so you can only put them in the right way. But they go opposite. The purpose of the notch is to keep the bearings from turning when the crank is spinning. The bearings want to spin with the crank and would do so without those tabs.

 

[NHerron]

Like silvreclips said

I like to start with the notched end of the bearing and 'roll' the bearing into the saddle(cap or rod). Don't lube the back of the bearing or anything, they go dry. Then assembly lube on the bearing after install

 

[2slow4now]

What was said above is . I'm going to add that before you install the bearings to wipe the back side of the bearing and the bearing journal in the block with a clean shop towel and a cleaner such as Naptha, brake cleaner, or something similar. You don't want any tiny chunkies of crap in between the bearing and the journal. It will create a raised spot in the bearing and make your oil clearance tighter in that spot. Also if not wiped off when you roll the bearing in place it could scrape any of the stuff into the crack between the two bearing halves and then release it into your bearings when you put some oil to it.

The install to check if you need to do something about your pivot ball. I just did that a week ago and feel your pain. Three times before I was happy with the engagement point. New shift ball, new fork, new clutch, new slave, new master, new ss hose, and new fidanza flywheel. Still three times. Check your step height on the flywheel. Should be around .608-.612.

 

[dsm-junkie]

Hhhhh

 

[bryanwheat]

There are notches in the caps so you can only put them in the right way. But they go opposite. The purpose of the notch is to keep the bearings from turning when the crank is spinning. The bearings want to spin with the crank and would do so without those tabs.

The notch on the bearings actually go on the same side of the rod. When you pull the cap off you will see that.

 

[WES_393]

^ I was just thinking that while I was reading. The rods will have the tangs (the tabs on the bearings) on the same side.

So does anyone have any tips for installing the pistons into the cylinders??? I know that I need to lube the walls with oil, have the ring gaps 180 degrees from each other! Is there anything else that I am missing???

Not sure if your past this point, but make sure to meticulously check the gaps and file them to the exact size you want. I would suggest getting a piston ring filer, one with a gauge would be optimal. Also, make sure to de-burr the areas you filed so there are no sharp edges that will scratch the cylinder wall. Otherwise just set the top ring 180* from the second ring and set the oil ring gaps staggered at least 45* from each other. I assume your using a piston ring compressor? Make sure to lube up the compressor generously (as well as the cylinder) and gently tap the pistons into place. They should slide in fairly easily if done right. If you feel much resistance when trying to install the pistons, check the compressor and make sure the rings are fully compressed into the ring lands.

Lastly, look into the Motoman break in method. It's a great guide to breaking in a freshly built engine.

 

[dsm-junkie]

The notch on the bearings actually go on the same side of the rod. When you pull the cap off you will see that.

That's a lot for that correction Bryan!

 

[dsm-junkie]

^ I was just thinking that while I was reading. The rods will have the tangs (the tabs on the bearings) on the same side.



Not sure if your past this point, but make sure to meticulously check the gaps and file them to the exact size you want. I would suggest getting a piston ring filer, one with a gauge would be optimal. Also, make sure to de-burr the areas you filed so there are no sharp edges that will scratch the cylinder wall. Otherwise just set the top ring 180* from the second ring and set the oil ring gaps staggered at least 45* from each other. I assume your using a piston ring compressor? Make sure to lube up the compressor generously (as well as the cylinder) and gently tap the pistons into place. They should slide in fairly easily if done right. If you feel much resistance when trying to install the pistons, check the compressor and make sure the rings are fully compressed into the ring lands.

Lastly, look into the Motoman break in method. It's a great guide to breaking in a freshly built engine.

I actually had the machine shop put my rings on while I got the block honed! so I didn't need to worry about that! I will be using a piston ring compressor! Thanks for the tip about lubing the ring compressor! I didn't really think about that!