- May 25, 2022
Alright so I’ve been trying to get my car to start and I’ve done a lot, what does it sound like my car is missing now? I’ll add a video, I’m just lost
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Well I have to unhook the battery everytime I turn the car off because my taillights will not turn off when the car turns off they just stay on, so not sure what’s up there but I’ll check the throttle position but I’m not sure about all my vacuum lines on my tb, they’re basically rerouted to themselves on top of the tb, I’m not sure where there supposed to go. I’ll add a pic.Yep sounds healthy now, good job sir. Sometimes the car will high idle on its own if you fixed an issue. Try unhooking the battery to reset ecu settings, it may be idling high thinking the previous issue you fixed is still there
As mentioned make sure the fuel injector o rings are seated and not causing a vacuum leak
Depending on how much you adjusted on the car you will want to double check the simple things now to lower the idle before you replace parts
Check to make sure the throttle body is fully closed, while the car is running try to push the throttle body closed. Some times the throttle cable can get out of adjustment and drag the throttle body open a little bit
Make sure the car doesnt have any vacuum leaks under the throttle body to the egr valve or the evap system
Okay I meant fix it then however I don’t think this car should be on the road yet judging by the month long thread of just trying to get it start. So fix the brake lights before you go on any public roads.Fix the break light switch. It's super easy.
You NEED brake lights. You don't need them on all the time but when you stop, you don't want ass ended because the person behind you had no idea.
It is probably the hole in the stopper or is gone, they disintegrate. The switch doesn't go out as often, but either way, simple, cheap, SAFE!
Will the tps cause the engine to idle high? I’m not sure why it’s idling that high. I’ve checked my vacuum lines and they all seem to be good and everything else seems to be working how it should only thing I can think of is the maf sensor but I have two and one causes it to throw a code for the maf and the engine will sputter when I rev it with that one in but it doesn’t idle high, when I have the other one I have in the car now, it revs good it just idles high so I’m not sure on it, also sometimes it seems like the injectors somewhat clog up but then they unclog themselves so I’m not sure if it’s sucking dirt from the bottom of the tank or if there’s dirt in my filter or what but I’m also below a quarter of a tank so that’s why I think it’s sucking things up, because the injectors didn’t clog until I ran it for a little bit and then drained the fuel down.The first one is made to detect the difference in manifold pressure when the egr valve activates. Unless your running SD and using it for that and not an Omni I’m not sure how much it will effect the car minus a check engine light. The second one is the TPS not the idle air control.
That is absolutely doing nothing…and I mean nothing. Please do a proper boost leak test. I definitely smiled after reading that though. Go to Lowe’s and buy a coupling and pvc adapter and reduce it from 1/2 npt to 1/8npt. Get a 1/8 npt tee fitting with an 1/8 gauge and 1/8 schrader valve.When I sprayed I revved the car to about 3500-4000rpms and didn’t see anything, I would like to get the actual tool to test it but I just haven’t.
9 pages and over 4 months of back-and-forth and no boost leak test has been done? You guys in this thread are very generous.
That is absolutely doing nothing…and I mean nothing. Please do a proper boost leak test. I definitely smiled after reading that though. Go to Lowe’s and buy a coupling and pvc adapter and reduce it from 1/2 npt to 1/8npt. Get a 1/8 npt tee fitting with an 1/8 gauge and 1/8 schrader valve.