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2G Car still won’t start

98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Alright so I’ve been trying to get my car to start and I’ve done a lot, what does it sound like my car is missing now? I’ll add a video, I’m just lost

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98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Yep sounds healthy now, good job sir. Sometimes the car will high idle on its own if you fixed an issue. Try unhooking the battery to reset ecu settings, it may be idling high thinking the previous issue you fixed is still there

As mentioned make sure the fuel injector o rings are seated and not causing a vacuum leak

Depending on how much you adjusted on the car you will want to double check the simple things now to lower the idle before you replace parts

Check to make sure the throttle body is fully closed, while the car is running try to push the throttle body closed. Some times the throttle cable can get out of adjustment and drag the throttle body open a little bit

Make sure the car doesnt have any vacuum leaks under the throttle body to the egr valve or the evap system
Well I have to unhook the battery everytime I turn the car off because my taillights will not turn off when the car turns off they just stay on, so not sure what’s up there but I’ll check the throttle position but I’m not sure about all my vacuum lines on my tb, they’re basically rerouted to themselves on top of the tb, I’m not sure where there supposed to go. I’ll add a pic.

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
The pedal switch is grounding the taillight circuit (I bet). Check it and the place where it rests when you aren't on the brakes. It may have a stopper that is missing that pushes the switch plunger in.
 

99dsmer4g63

Proven Member
173
86
Sep 20, 2022
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
Make sure you have zero vacuum leaks. Boost leak test the car with soapy water. If no leaks are found you need to ensure that the tps is adjusted properly and that the idle switch is being engaged. I would also check the throttle plate stop I think it’s the SAS. It should be 1 1/4 turns tighter after contacting the throttle plate. Make sure the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Also just unplug the the brake switch on top of the pedal it’s most likely the switch is bad. The car will never learn anything if you keep unplugging the battery every time.
-Daniel
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Fix the break light switch. It's super easy.
You NEED brake lights. You don't need them on all the time but when you stop, you don't want ass ended because the person behind you had no idea.
It is probably the hole in the stopper or is gone, they disintegrate. The switch doesn't go out as often, but either way, simple, cheap, SAFE!
 

99dsmer4g63

Proven Member
173
86
Sep 20, 2022
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
Fix the break light switch. It's super easy.
You NEED brake lights. You don't need them on all the time but when you stop, you don't want ass ended because the person behind you had no idea.
It is probably the hole in the stopper or is gone, they disintegrate. The switch doesn't go out as often, but either way, simple, cheap, SAFE!
Okay I meant fix it then LOL 😆 however I don’t think this car should be on the road yet judging by the month long thread of just trying to get it start. So fix the brake lights before you go on any public roads.👍🏼
-Daniel
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,899
5,786
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Not being harsh just realistic as we dont need any more sad news going on.
Stay Safe! :thumb:
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Alright so should I go ahead and get a new brake light switch after I check to make sure that it is the switch itself, but for now I’ll just unplug it so I don’t have to keep unhooking the battery and maybe I can finally tie it down LOL but I still gotta do tags and everything for the car so I’ll definitely have a new switch put in by then LOL
 

99dsmer4g63

Proven Member
173
86
Sep 20, 2022
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
The first one is made to detect the difference in manifold pressure when the egr valve activates. Unless your running SD and using it for that and not an Omni I’m not sure how much it will effect the car minus a check engine light. The second one is the TPS not the idle air control.
-Daniel
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
The first one is made to detect the difference in manifold pressure when the egr valve activates. Unless your running SD and using it for that and not an Omni I’m not sure how much it will effect the car minus a check engine light. The second one is the TPS not the idle air control.
-Daniel
Will the tps cause the engine to idle high? I’m not sure why it’s idling that high. I’ve checked my vacuum lines and they all seem to be good and everything else seems to be working how it should only thing I can think of is the maf sensor but I have two and one causes it to throw a code for the maf and the engine will sputter when I rev it with that one in but it doesn’t idle high, when I have the other one I have in the car now, it revs good it just idles high so I’m not sure on it, also sometimes it seems like the injectors somewhat clog up but then they unclog themselves so I’m not sure if it’s sucking dirt from the bottom of the tank or if there’s dirt in my filter or what but I’m also below a quarter of a tank so that’s why I think it’s sucking things up, because the injectors didn’t clog until I ran it for a little bit and then drained the fuel down.
 

99dsmer4g63

Proven Member
173
86
Sep 20, 2022
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
When I sprayed I revved the car to about 3500-4000rpms and didn’t see anything, I would like to get the actual tool to test it but I just haven’t.
That is absolutely doing nothing…and I mean nothing. Please do a proper boost leak test. I definitely smiled after reading that though. Go to Lowe’s and buy a coupling and pvc adapter and reduce it from 1/2 npt to 1/8npt. Get a 1/8 npt tee fitting with an 1/8 gauge and 1/8 schrader valve.
-Daniel
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
9 pages and over 4 months of back-and-forth and no boost leak test has been done? You guys in this thread are very generous.

I would love to be able to buy all the tools and things I need for those types of test but I just can’t do it all at once. I figured you know being on a budget I could slowly do things. I wanted to get the car running before I was even worried about boost, considering the car didn’t even run right till just recently (still iffy). Not trying to waste anyones time by doing everything slow or not having the test done right away.

I know these tools are inexpensive but I have to choose every week what I’m gonna get for my car and I’ve chose to get parts for it before I got some of the other testers, I have a compression tester for compression test but I’m gonna get all the other ones I need eventually.

That is absolutely doing nothing…and I mean nothing. Please do a proper boost leak test. I definitely smiled after reading that though. Go to Lowe’s and buy a coupling and pvc adapter and reduce it from 1/2 npt to 1/8npt. Get a 1/8 npt tee fitting with an 1/8 gauge and 1/8 schrader valve.
-Daniel

My buddy has a boost leak tester, I was gonna use his but I work on reefer units and the way we check for leaks is that way so wasn’t sure if it would work the same way or not so I tried it LOL
 
Last edited by a moderator:

99dsmer4g63

Proven Member
173
86
Sep 20, 2022
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
A boost leak test is just as important to find vacuum leaks in the cars as well as boost. If it’s leaks under boost is leaking under vacuum as well and the car most likely will not idle or drive properly as a result. Also you can a make tester for $30 at Lowe’s.
-Daniel
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Got the brake light issue fixed, it wound up being the plunger for the brake switch, got the car tagged and have been taking it on test drives about everyday after work. The car drives phenomenal, I’m running a solid -20 to -22 vacuum and can build 10-15 pounds of boost no problem. I haven’t gotten past about 6500 rpms when I’ve been driving it but the car gets up and moves, I’m getting all the turbo noises and blowoff noises, I’m trying to get the car inspected this week so I can take it out on the main road fully I just don’t feel safe enough yet with just tags on my car.
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
136
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
I’ve replaced almost every vacuum line and replaced both inner and outer tb gaskets, checker every coupler connecting to piping and the inter cooler and from the turbo, etc just to make sure i didn’t have a vacuum leak. The car is still running how it was, runs perfectly except it just wants to idle high, but I did notice when I had the tb disconnected from the intake and the inlet pipe I saw that the butterfly wasn’t sitting straight up and down, it’s sitting at about 5 degrees in and that would make sense now why my car idles high if the butterfly isn’t closed all the way when it’s supposed to be, and the idle screw is all the way in so I’m honestly wondering where I should adjust to get the butterfly to close all the way, once I get that I feel like my car will idle perfectly.
 

99dsmer4g63

Proven Member
173
86
Sep 20, 2022
Shippensburg, Pennsylvania
Check the stopper that the throttle plate hits. It’s on the bottom. 1 1/4 turn after making contact with the throttle plate.

Then adjust throttle cable

Turn the biss screw the whole way in. Then back it out 2 1/4 turns.

Re adjust tps since you messed with SAS.

Did you ever do a proper boost leak test? This doesn’t mean tell me that you replaced a bunch of gaskets either and looked at things and said looks good.

-Daniel
 
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