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2G Car still won’t start

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Alright so I’ve been trying to get my car to start and I’ve done a lot, what does it sound like my car is missing now? I’ll add a video, I’m just lost

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Mello

15+ Year Contributor
1,473
622
Jul 4, 2003
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
Remove all coolant hoses, I think there's 13 in total, then flush the heater core, radiator, and through the thermostat housing.
 

Mello

15+ Year Contributor
1,473
622
Jul 4, 2003
Albuquerque, New_Mexico
To clean & remove corrosion fill the system with vinegar and drive it for a couple days. Drain, fill with soda water, and run to neutralize the vinegar, and same thing again with regular water. Do a complete drain and fill with new coolant.
FSM says to undo the coolant hose to the turbo.
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It's hose #18. There will still be quite a bit of coolant remaining in the block though. You can drain more if you undo hose #14 also.
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Last edited:

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
So here it is everyone, has some quirks I need to work out, not sure what’s up with this sputtering but other than that things seem good so far, fingers crossed from here on out it’s now going to be the little things. Lol

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I cannot figure what this noise is, it doesn’t happen everytime it’s running just sometimes


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chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,523
525
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
I cannot figure what this noise is, it doesn’t happen everytime it’s running just sometimes

Not being able to go through 7 pages of thread, but it sounds like the tensioner arm bottoming out on the hydraulic tensioner. How many times did you rotate to to dead center and check timing arm to hydraulic tensioner gap after pulling the grenade pin?

If you set timing too tight and over rotate the tensioner pulley on the timing belt the tensioner arm sits too low on the hydraulic idler and will rattle on it
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Not being able to go through 7 pages of thread, but it sounds like the tensioner arm bottoming out on the hydraulic tensioner. How many times did you rotate to to dead center and check timing arm to hydraulic tensioner gap after pulling the grenade pin?

If you set timing too tight and over rotate the tensioner pulley on the timing belt the tensioner arm sits too low on the hydraulic idler and will rattle on it
So I just put the tensioner back on and pulled the pin out, I didn’t adjust the tensioner at all but once I had the timing belt on and the tensioner on, I rotated the engine the 6 times and everything still lined up after the rotations, so should I get a new tensioner?

I’m almost certain the noise I keep hearing is the bearings in the water pump, but I’m also not 100% at the same time
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,864
1,720
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
So I just put the tensioner back on and pulled the pin out, I didn’t adjust the tensioner at all but once I had the timing belt on and the tensioner on, I rotated the engine the 6 times and everything still lined up after the rotations, so should I get a new tensioner?

Not sure what exactly that means you did but at the risk of misunderstanding you let me explain.

You load the hydraulic tensioner by rotating the tensioner pulley against the timing belt until the retaining pin begins to move freely. You then rotate the crank 6 turns (FSM says 2 turns but it takes 6 to return all the timing marks back to their initial positions) to distribute the tension on the belt, make sure the pin still moves freely and then wait 15 mins. After 15 mins you check the pin again and if it still moves freely you can pull it and move on.

If at any point the pin doesn't move freely you go back to rotating the pulley to change the tension, and start again. If you don't have the tensioner pulley adjustment tool, this can be a challenge, with it you're just loosening the pulley bolt a bit and either moving the pulley more or less against the belt and re-torquing the pulley bolt.
 

chrysler kid

15+ Year Contributor
2,523
525
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
So I just put the tensioner back on and pulled the pin out, I didn’t adjust the tensioner at all but once I had the timing belt on and the tensioner on, I rotated the engine the 6 times and everything still lined up after the rotations, so should I get a new tensioner?

No you shouldnt need a tensioner, these cars are extremely sensitive to timing belt load tension. You have to measure the gap between the timing arm and the hydraulic tensioner to make sure they are the correct gap, if the belt is on too tight the gap on the hydraulic tensioner is too small and it will rattle on the hydraulic tensioner

Regardless, the next step to identifying the noise is to put the car back on jack stands and listen to the noise while inspecting under the car. If it sounds like its coming from the belt area remove the alternator and steering belts and run the car with those belts off. If its still coming from that side remove the timing covers and run the motor again and inspect that area for the noise
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Not sure what exactly that means you did but at the risk of misunderstanding you let me explain.

You load the hydraulic tensioner by rotating the tensioner pulley against the timing belt until the retaining pin begins to move freely. You then rotate the crank 6 turns to distribute the tension on the belt, make sure the pin still moves freely and then wait 15 mins. After 15 mins yoou check the pin again and if it still moves freely you can pull it and move on.

If at any point the pin doesn't move freely you go back to rotating the pulley to change the tension, and start again. If you don't have the tensioner pully adjustment took this can be a challenge, with it you're just loosing the pulley bolt a bit and either moving the pulley more or less against the belt and re-torquing the pulley bolt.
I’m honestly a little confused on this one, I have to put the tensioner on a vice to compress it to put a cotter pin in there, I’m just not understanding the moving freely part because in order for me to pull the pin out I need to grab it with pliers.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,864
1,720
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
I’m just not understanding the moving freely part because in order for me to pull the pin out I need to grab it with pliers.

When the tension on the belt is correct the pin will be loose.
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Got the timing belt tension all set and the pin moves in and out freely now, and I found the noise because I could hear underneath better with the bumper off and the noise is coming from the alternator pulley, so I’m not so so worried about it now, I’ll just get a new alternator and put it on, my car is running lean right now though, so not so sure what to do on that.
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Checked everything on the alternator, all the mounting bolts are good, I actually grabbed the pulley itself and felt for play and it’s the pulley itself that needs play, took the care for a test drive, it did pretty good just still running lean but when I turned the car off and tried to turn it back on and battery was dead so I’ll be needing a new alternator, all belts are tight the dude before didn’t have a bolt for the ac comp belt to hold the tension so I got a bolt to hold it tight so that’s good now. Now the vacuum line for the pcv valve coming from the intake to vc, where I pulled that line off of to put it in the right place, what line is actually supposed to go there? I also need to figure wiring out for the interior dash lights🙄
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Does anyone know what could be causing my car to run lean and sputter at certain points? It has periods where it accelerates perfectly then sometimes it sputters then straightens out and I’m not sure why. Any ideas?
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,679
5,519
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Wideband on the car? If so, what does it say when the car is acting up? Is a Log possible?
 

98gstJames

Proven Member
123
27
May 25, 2022
Virginia
Have you done a boost leak test since you got it back together ?
I have not done a boost leak test since I got it back together but I will do that.

Did you fix the pcv vacuum line?
Yes I did I took the pcv line that was coming out of the intake and put it on the valve cover where it supposed to go and I just put a cap on the inlet where I pulled the line from because I wasn’t sure what was supposed to go there.

Wideband on the car? If so, what does it say when the car is acting up? Is a Log possible?
Like my wideband 02 sensor? If so yes I have it in and I can get a log, I haven’t yet but I will
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,679
5,519
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
A log showing what the car is doing will tell alot. See if you can get a log of it doing what it is doing and then load that log to your post as if it were a picture. We can then see any fueling, timing or erratic issues.
 
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